NAPA thermostats 180 degrees

[GB SISSON]

I have the subaru 170 degree napa thermostats #111 in my woodie (3 1/16 replacement block) right now. This weekend I plan on installing an arvin heater I found at a swap meet. I have gotten everything purchased to do the job and the heater is all cleaned up. I was just hoping there is a napa thermostat that's 180 degrees for a bit more heat and maybe less sludge. Their books here don't go past 1951. Tomorrow being friday I was just hoping someone would say something such as '1972 ford granada' or 1971 toyota hilux and it would have the same diameter disc etc....

[Flathead Fever]

Stant makes most of the radiator caps and thermostats. We used them at work for thirty-year's and they seamed to be as good as the originals. Here is a link to the Stant vintage catalog. If you know the model Subaru your 170 thermostat came out of there might be 180 degree option listed for the same car. Napa should be able to crossover the number.

http://www.stant.com/files/2714/0979...tage_Guide.pdf

[GB SISSON]

Just checked it... It's for a 1990-1994 subaru justy 1.2 liter. Haven't been able to see what the specs are, but for my 221 cu in, and split in half, seems about right. I think the diameter of the disc portion is key. Not like it's 20 below here, so the existing 170 degree stats ok, but the woodie is still pretty drafty with no door weatherstripping in place, and when we get a sunny winter day the two of us and the dog may want to go to the dump 'styling'. Draining the system to re-do the stats in the spring is always an ordeal too, but heck, that's four months from now

[51 MERC-CT]

For a temporary increase in the operating temperature during cold times of the year the simplest thing to do is to place a piece of cardboard or similar material in front of the radiator.
Generally 30% to 50% coverage will do the trick. Just monitor and adjust amount of coverage that is required.
Beats having to do an annual thermostat change.

[flatheadmurre]

And if going for a winter only thermostat...atleast around here we used to install 195F+ stats.
If you check NAPA they have the Subaru stat from 170-195F.
The cardboard trick is great....still doesn´t raise the watertemp to the heater if that is what you need to inrease heating capacity.

[34PKUP]

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Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

The cardboard trick is great....still doesn´t raise the watertemp to the heater if that is what you need to inrease heating capacity.

And where does the heater get it's water from??

[flatheadmurre]

Originally Posted by 34PKUP

And where does the heater get it's water from??

If you need more energy then available with a 170F stat...raising the working temp of the engine makes more energy available at the heater core.

Partly blocking the radiator can only get you up to the working temp of the installed stat in a safe way...

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

If you need more energy then available with a 170F stat...raising the working temp of the engine makes more energy available at the heater core.

Partly blocking the radiator can only get you up to the working temp of the installed stat in a safe way...

That's strange because I am running a 160°F thermostat and with the addition of partial radiator blockage the water temp. runs in the 185°F range and the difference is felt in the heater also.

[flatheadmurre]

Usually letting something else then the thermostat control the engine working temp...restricting flow of either water or air is less safe...not saying it can´t be done.
And my original point was if OP needed more heat in the cab go for a winter stat.
Feels like it´s time to ask what oil he´s running

[mfirth]

My .02 .... i run n a p a 180s in my 8ba. Never goes over 185 in the heat of summer & like 51 merc i put cardboard in on cold days & it gives me more heat in the car. m

[JSeery]

I have used material to block the radiator as well. I think the point is it is more difficult to regulate than using a thermostat.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by JSeery

I have used material to block the radiator as well. I think the point is it is more difficult to regulate than using a thermostat.

Until the 1930's when the first automotive thermostats started to be used, the primary attempts at temperature control were controllable slats in front of the radiator such as the much coveted Pines Winterfront grille.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

Until the 1930's when the first automotive thermostats started to be used, the primary attempts at temperature control were controllable slats in front of the radiator such as the much coveted Pines Winterfront grille.

And these methods were replaced by thermostats. Not sure what the problem with thermostats is, but as I posted, I grew up blocking radiators to get an engine to heat up in the winter. Just easier to use good thermostates.

[uncle buck]

They can get you an Altrom 180 degree version which is made by TAMA. TAMA is an oem supplier to Subaru. The problem is that the closest pair available is getting 1 from Portland and 1 from Spokane. part # 154-3601

[Cecil/WV]

Or you van order full flow thermostats from Bob Shewman in Pa in 160 or 180.

[GB SISSON]

Thanks all ! I'll be at napa this afternoon after work and see what they have. If it had been in their books, is there a napa part # for a '46 V8 180 degree thermostat? I know I could order something, but tomorrow is just a good day for me to perform the operation, that's all. We're a one horse town here for auto parts.

[JSeery]

GB, a 46 would not have a modern style thermostat, it would use the older "barrel" type that mount up by the top inlets to the radiator. You need a diameter that will fit into the hoses at the outlet on the heads. You then need to use a method to secure them. There was a post a week or so ago where I listed all of the numbers and models they were from that will fit.

https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthrea...ght=Thermostat

Post #4 & #25

[flatmotor40]

with Offy head on a 59ab the therms dont fit without grinding the id of the heads.What thermostat ft without grinding.Mine doesn't get hot enough to use the Vintage air heater.It is a heater by itself no A/C

[philipswanson]

I've always had a problem with keeping the thermostats from flipping sideways on my 40. Thinking about using JB Weld to glue them down. Some use wire or smaller id hose to hold them but never had any luck doing this. What do you guys do?

Phil Swanson

[1931 flamingo]

There was a t/stat thread a week or so ago with pics of how Ol'Henry wires them in. FWIW
Paul in CT

[philipswanson]

I think the JB may be a better method.

[B-O-B]

I cut 2 pcs. about 1 1/2" in length each of white PVC pipe & stuck them in the hose that attachs to the heads. This on my 1947 59AB truck motor that I just rebuilt. Works fine so far.

[aussie merc]

had the same problems so went to stainless pipes fitted joiner hose to head inserted thermostats then pushed pipes all the way home trapping thermostats works added bonus dosnt look that bad

[philipswanson]

I think all that's needed is clean the surfaces and use some JB Weld. Makers claim its good to over 500 degrees. No other hardware to impede water flow.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by philipswanson

No other hardware to impede water flow.

Little hard to have much more impediment to water flow than a thermostat!

[Bored&Stroked]

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Hey Guys - if you don't mind a few extra hose clamps, 'fixing the flipping issue' is quite easy. What I do is use 1" short pieces of PVC or stainless tubing - to go above/below the thermostat (you don't need it below - unless you have issues with the thermostat fitting into your heads and don't want to grind the tops for clearance).

I put the short piece of tubing above the thermostat and add an extra hose-clamp. The tubing ID is smaller than the thermostat OD - so it won't 'flip' anymore.


Notice the hose-clamp in the middle below - holds a single piece of stainless tubing above the thermostat:

Thermostats-2019-01-06_12-23-06.jpg

[GB SISSON]

On mine it seems that the factory steel tubes hold the stat down. I do like all the ingenuity displayed here for hold downs. I found four 195 degree thermostats in a box of V8 junk. 2 looked like new, but decided I didn't want to run that close to boiling so for now I still have the 170 subaru stats in place. Heater is installed and it wasn't a walk in the park. There is a 3/8 street ell after my valve that I thought was very restrictive at 5/16 ID so I drilled it out. Well on the final twist the thin wall sheared off. At least I found another in a bucket of plumbing stuff. The arvin has huge tubing and I decided it was 3/4" so I bought some 3/4 hose and made adapters down to 5/8 hose. It was all I could do to stretch the 3/4 hose onto the heater necks. I have to say that this thing blows like a hurricane. I'm using the rheostat switch that was dangling off it at the swap meet. It was set up to run 'sideways' with the intake air at the top and blowing down towards your feet. What I'm sayin is the shaft of the fan motor is in the vertical position. I'll get a picture later. Now I want to weatherstrip those doors!

[G.M.]

The best stock thermostats you can get are the
old Robertshaw 330-160--- 330-170---330---180
or 330-190. These fit right in the 8BA goose neck.
the flange has to be reduced and the ruff spots cleaned
out in the earlier V/8's. These have the largest openings
and don't restrict the flow. I think they are being reproduced
in Mexico. I know they had quality control problem a number
of years ago but I would guess they have that fixed. I am not
guessing about the flow this is what we see on Skips water
pump test machine tested at a 5 minute flow test. G.M.

[philipswanson]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Little hard to have much more impediment to water flow than a thermostat!

Not when the thermostat is open. You want maximum flow then. I glued mine in with JB. An added advantage is it seals the edges of the thermostats so no water can bypass the thermostat. JB holds them strong in position. I am running high flow Subaru 180 degree Fail Safes. They pass quite a bit more flow when open than most others.

[JSeery]

An open thermostat has less crossectional area than the diameter of the hose. A cylinder inside the hose to retain the thermostat is going to be larger and less restrictive than the open thermostat.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by philipswanson

Not when the thermostat is open. You want maximum flow then. I glued mine in with JB. An added advantage is it seals the edges of the thermostats so no water can bypass the thermostat. JB holds them strong in position. I am running high flow Subaru 180 degree Fail Safes. They pass quite a bit more flow when open than most others.

So I googled the 180 subaru fail safes and got more confusion. Sounds like what I want. Would you have an amazon link to part # or ebay link? Do the 'fail safes' fail in the open position???

[Drbrown]

Good old days - my stock 1932 4 cyl Plymouth had a full adjustable vertical metal louver behind the radiator operated by a choke cable from the dash .... but also had a stat.

I use small inner piece of rubber hose to hold my Stant 160 degree stats in-place. Oddly enough, when warmed-up the engine runs at 175-180 degrees anyway.

[slowforty]

I used some Volvo Thermostats in my 40 with a 46 motor. Naturally I dont have the part numbers. They fit well with a gasket around the thermostat. I used a piece of wire to hold it in place.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Drbrown

I use small inner piece of rubber hose to hold my Stant 160 degree stats in-place. Oddly enough, when warmed-up the engine runs at 175-180 degrees anyway.

The thermostats decrease the time it takes to reach a minimum operating temperature. They have little impact on the maximum temperature your engine will run at.

[Sid]

Originally Posted by flatmotor40

with Offy head on a 59ab the therms dont fit without grinding the id of the heads.What thermostat ft without grinding.Mine doesn't get hot enough to use the Vintage air heater.It is a heater by itself no A/C

I had the same problem with my Navarro heads. I ended up using the bellows style stats.

[philipswanson]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

So I googled the 180 subaru fail safes and got more confusion. Sounds like what I want. Would you have an amazon link to part # or ebay link? Do the 'fail safes' fail in the open position???

Yes, there are two types. One fails in the open position and the other one is a higher flow. The later one has a much larger opening. The MotorRad part number for the high flows is 2003-180. Don't run a colder stat in a flathead. 180s are perfect. It is a Subaru thermostat and fits earlier flatheads perfectly. Not for 8BAs tho.