axle seal leak

[37 Cab]

I recently found my rear end was low on oil. I filled it to the edge of the fill hole and now my left axle seal is leaking. Never leaked a bit until I topped it off. Now it is leaking bad enough to run down the tire onto the floor. My question is.. How big of a job is it to replace? I assume I will need to remove the axle housing from the banjo? Can I do it in the car or is it best to remove the whole rear end? Will I need a spring spreader? Car is a 37.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I'm not understanding this completely. When you filled the rear, then noticed the leak, was there some driving done between the fill and the start of the leak, or did this start to happen right after you filled the rear while the car was sitting in the garage on a level surface?? Also, exactly where is the leak coming from? Is the oil coming out from between the bottom of the drum and the backing plate and running down the back of the tire, or is it leaking at the axle nut and running down the front of the tire, or maybe both?

There are axel seals made that can be installed at the wheel bearing end of the axle housing without having to remove the housing by unbolting it from the banjo housing.

[37 Cab]

Hi John.. The leak started after I took the car out for a day ride last weekend. It sat for a week after I filled it with no sign of a leak. No sign of leak until I drove it. The leak is coming from between the backing plate and drum and down the inside of the tire.

[SofaKing]

Assuming you wish to remover the housing from the center section, it'll be easier to work on outside the car obviously. I think it could be done in-situ. Try and get the car as high as possible, disconnect the spring on both ends and lower the axel until the torque tube hits the frame behind the u-joint and then support it at the banjo. (If you only disconnect the spring on the end you are working on, it may tend to rotate the axel down giving more clearance but then things will be in a bind.) Disconnect the aft end of the radius rod and swing it out of the way, remove the backing plate and brake linkages, shocks and slide the housing off the axel. Of course now you have to fiddle with the paper shims while lying on your back in the dirt with rust falling in your eyes.
I would use a spring spreader so as not to lose a couple digits but I am funny that way.

[PeteVS]

To me, it sounds like the rear wheel bearing seal is gone. Possibly both it and the axle seal. Anyway, you've got a brake job ahead of you. Also, if you go through all the trouble to lower the rear, you might as well disconnect the brake linkage, speedo and the clamshell so you can roll the rear out and get better access to all of the possible problems. (Just my opinion.)

[37 Cab]

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Thanks guys. I do have a lift in my shop so I can raise the car as high as I want. But.. just last week I replaced my toe boards and floor mats and added insulation under the mats. The thought of undoing all I just did I think I will try it with the axle in the car. Going to need to order a drum puller first though. If I am going to absolutely have to remove the whole rear end then it is time to think about a taller gear set.... Never ending journey with the old girl. Has anyone pulled an axle tube in the car that can give me some tips? It does have a reversed eye spring if that makes a difference.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 37 Cab

It does have a reversed eye spring if that makes a difference.

Reversed-eyes make a difference when you attempt to use a spring spreader. The pic below shows an easy way to use four short pieces of angle, with holes drilled so that they can be bolted to the ends of the spring to give the spreader two slots to push against. DD