Fuel Regulator for Steel Fuel Lines

[JMFL36]

Hi Folks. Wondering if anyone has a recommendation for a good quality fuel regulator with flare fitting for steel fuel lines? All the stuff I've found so far has rubber hose fittings.

[56 Panel]

How much fuel pressure are you going to run?

[JMFL36]

3-4 psi

[miker98038]

Most of the better regulators have female fittings in the main body. Use adaptors as necessary. I’ve used a number of them, often with a line to the blower for blow thru systems. Here’s a link to Summit, sit down first. But you get what you pay for. I’ve had those little “twist top” ones fail immediately, leak, etc. the second to last place you want a leak is fuel, right after the brake system.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...SAAEgIGYvD_BwE

[fordor41]

we used an Offenhauser "dial type" from Autozone for 10 yrs. never had it leak

[Flathead Fever]

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It is better to use the correct pump that puts out the pressure you need. The regulator is just an extra part that can fail. I have had nothing but problems with aftermarket fuel regulators on vintage cars shutting off the fuel when you try to set them for low pressure. I don't know if it was bad luck or what. I had one on a '66 Mini Cooper S with twin SU carbs that would shut the fuel off as you were going down the road. I'd get out, open the bonnet, British they don't' have hoods. I'd twist the adjustable dial and then I was good for maybe a week. There was a fine line between flooding over or the regulator not letting fuel through. I bought a new one and it did the same thing. Tried and expensive one and the same thing, I Ended up buying the correct pressure electric pump and never had a problem again.

[KULTULZ]

Maybe read TECH on a DEAD-HEAD and BYPASS REGULATOR.

[56 Panel]

Im with flathead fever. Use a pump with the correct pressure and maybe put a guage in line to check the pressure.

[KULTULZ]

... put a guage in line to check the pressure.

I tried that once and every time I pulled over and shut the engine off, the pressure read zero when I opened the hood...

TRANSLATION -

The gauge would have to be mounted to be able to view any variations in pressures during operation.

[Daves55Sedan]

If you have a modern replacement mechanical fuel pump for Y-block or FE engine, those pumps have an output pressure of 5 - 7 psi which is more that what you want, so you would need a regulator to keep the pressure below 4 psi. I don't recommend any regulators available from the chain auto parts stores.
Airtex offers a 6-volt electric fuel pump with 2.5 - 4 psi output pressure part #E8902, but you'd need to remove your mechanical pump and install a block-off plate and use the electric pump full time. You can but the whole kit, part # E8902K from Vintage Auto Garage so you don't need to get fuel filter & fittings separately.

[56 Panel]

Kultulz, the guage is just to check that the pressure is correct with the engine
running, not too low or too high so you know its the correct spec for the carb, and the pump spec is correct. When you shut the engine off the pressure
usually drops.

[fordor41]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

If you have a modern replacement mechanical fuel pump for Y-block or FE engine, those pumps have an output pressure of 5 - 7 psi which is more that what you want, so you would need a regulator to keep the pressure below 4 psi. I don't recommend any regulators available from the chain auto parts store
s.Airtex offers a 6-volt electric fuel pump with 2.5 - 4 psi output pressure part #E8902, but you'd need to remove your mechanical pump and install a block-off plate and use the electric pump full time. You can but the whole kit, part # E8902K from Vintage Auto Garage so you don't need to get fuel filter & fittings separately.

" I don't recommend any regulators available from the chain auto parts store"
How about if I ordered a Offenhauser reg. or any other reg. from the manufacturer. would that be junk also. How about Jegs, Summit. They must get the "good" parts!

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 56 Panel

Kultulz, the guage is just to check that the pressure is correct with the engine running, not too low or too high so you know its the correct spec for the carb, and the pump spec is correct.

When you shut the engine off the pressure usually drops

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Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Maybe read TECH on a DEAD-HEAD and BYPASS REGULATOR.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by fordor41

How about if I ordered a Offenhauser reg. or any other reg. from the manufacturer. would that be junk also. How about Jegs, Summit. They must get the "good" parts!

At the time when I was looking for something different from what I had been using, I did look at Summit and Jegs, but they offered the same types I had already tried, but that was ten years ago. I even had an expensive adjustable Holley regulator with integral pressure guage but it blew up too. It didn't last any longer than the cheapies I got from the chain auto parts stores.
There was just waaaay to much pressure to fend off. The new repro fuel pump delivered 5 - 7 psi, and I was trying to taper the pressure down for a Holley 1904 single bbl carb for the Ford 223 I-block 6-cyl.
I ended up designing a complete fuel bypass system back to the gas tank, by using an orifice in the carb supply line to direct excess pressure to a tee in the line ahead of the orifice. From there, I hung a whole nother fuel line back to the gas tank.
Miraculously, it has worked without any trouble the past ten years.
If you do end up getting a regulator, don't get a cheap one. It's a waste of money and time replacing it. Don't try to taper off too much pressure. My 223 I-block 6 fuel pump actually blew up rather than inundate the carb float. It's a mind blower!

[KULTULZ]

... ended up designing a complete fuel bypass system back to the gas tank, by using an orifice in the carb supply line to direct excess pressure to a tee in the line ahead of the orifice. From there, I hung a whole nother fuel line back to the gas tank.

Miraculously, it has worked without any trouble the past ten years.

There you go. Fuel pressure beating against a DEAD-HEAD REGULATOR will cause heat and eventually failure.

[JMFL36]

Well, I plumbed a fuel pressure gauge into the steel fuel line today right off the fuel pump. Ran the car at different RPMs. At idle it reads 4.5 PSI, and at higher RMPs it never goes over 5 PSI. So I think I can safely rule out the fuel pump as the cause of the carb flooding. To see a short video of the gauge readings go HERE. So I won't be installing a regulator at this point.

[KULTULZ]

Better to be safe than sorry. With a flooding carb, you have to start at SQUARE ONE and go from there.