1939 Ford Convertible frame

[dfoster]

I've recently purchased a 1939 Ford Deluxe Convertible. In the process of taking the convertible frame off to restore. I've noticed that all the joints seem seized up for the frame operate freely. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to improve this? I have removed everything and all pieces have been carefully media blasted. Any advice would be appreciated. Also interested in spare parts or a spare frame if anyone has something laying around in good condition willing to sale.

[swoopNZ]

Sandblast it and check it out for rust before painting.

[47topless]

Is your car a convertible coupe or convertible sedan? (Rumble seat or no?)

[Veeder]

Right or wrong (but it worked for me) I spent countless hours with a can of Wd40 and a beer :-)… and slowly moved each joint back and fourth until everything was moving smoothly. Very time consuming but it worked.

[swoopNZ]

I have a few spares for a 39 deluxe convertible.
Shipping from New Zealand is not too high.
SwoopNZ.

[Mart]

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I just realised we're talking about the top frame, not the chassis. Just mentioning it in case anyone else was thinking the same.

[rotorwrench]

Any corrosion growth at all will cause tightness at movable joints. If penetrant and working doesn't loosen it up then disassembly may be required. If it's riveted together then it complicates things a lot.

[deuce_roadster]

If you have to take it apart, take LOTS of detailed pictures before you begin. Include which fasteners go where. I recently went through this with a Brand X convertible.

[blucar]

Many of the joint fasteners on convertible tops are riveted. I would be very slow to remove the rivets because it is very difficult to replace the rivets.
A good penetrating oil like BLASTER will loosen the joints, a second option is to use a combination of heat from an electric heat gun with a good penetrating oil.
I have been involved with the restoration of three pre 40 convertibles all of which were Briggs bodies. Many of the top fasteners have chrome plated heads which are unobtainable. I had to have new bolts made for the connections with bolts. Many of the bolts are shoulder bolts that have to go through two layers of steel, therefore the shoulders have to be smooth, no threads on the shoulders.
I had bolts made out of stainless steel, which I polished, thereby simulating chrome on the exposed side. I had nuts made that simulated a rivet head with a countersunk hex hole for tightening on the concealed side.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by blucar

Many of the joint fasteners on convertible tops are riveted. I would be very slow to remove the rivets because it is very difficult to replace the rivets.
A good penetrating oil like BLASTER will loosen the joints, a second option is to use a combination of heat from an electric heat gun with a good penetrating oil.
I have been involved with the restoration of three pre 40 convertibles all of which were Briggs bodies. Many of the top fasteners have chrome plated heads which are unobtainable. I had to have new bolts made for the connections with bolts. Many of the bolts are shoulder bolts that have to go through two layers of steel, therefore the shoulders have to be smooth, no threads on the shoulders.
I had bolts made out of stainless steel, which I polished, thereby simulating chrome on the exposed side. I had nuts made that simulated a rivet head with a countersunk hex hole for tightening on the concealed side.

[blucar]

If you review the pix I attached to my earlier thread you will note that the header wood header panel and rear main bow is made out of laminated wood.
The original front header on my 39 conv was made out of laminated 3/4" oak. shaped to size.
I bought a new header from a company that claimed their headers were duplicates of the originals. The new panels were made from one piece of wood which did not match the contour of the windshield, and would not sit straight on the windshield frame, missing by over 1/4".
The man I bought the header panel from claimed he had been making convertible bows and header panels for years, and that he had never had a complaint. In other words, my problem was T.S.
I canceled the transaction on my M. Card and sent the header back to the vendor.
When I need convertible top bows I have them made by a 'Boatwright', he will laminate them out of oak creating the initial shape on a 'jig' during the laminating process. Eliminates the hazel of trying to steam bend things.
Does your header panel have a metal tray built into the bottom side for weather stripping to fit into? The original front header I had, had a metal tray, therefore I have followed that pattern on the three convertibles I have rebuilt.

[dfoster]

Originally Posted by 47topless

is your car a convertible coupe or convertible sedan? (rumble seat or no?)

convertible coupe

[dfoster]

Originally Posted by blucar

Many of the joint fasteners on convertible tops are riveted. I would be very slow to remove the rivets because it is very difficult to replace the rivets.
A good penetrating oil like BLASTER will loosen the joints, a second option is to use a combination of heat from an electric heat gun with a good penetrating oil.
I have been involved with the restoration of three pre 40 convertibles all of which were Briggs bodies. Many of the top fasteners have chrome plated heads which are unobtainable. I had to have new bolts made for the connections with bolts. Many of the bolts are shoulder bolts that have to go through two layers of steel, therefore the shoulders have to be smooth, no threads on the shoulders.
I had bolts made out of stainless steel, which I polished, thereby simulating chrome on the exposed side. I had nuts made that simulated a rivet head with a countersunk hex hole for tightening on the concealed side.

Thank you for the reply. I'll take your advice and purchase the blaster treatment.
The frame has been disassembled as far down as I can take it. I had to use heat to actually remove all the hardware from the metal shaped bow. Once I did that, it came apart easily. I plan to get it refinished once I have the joints moving freely.

[aandkt]

WHEN i GOT MY 36 CABRIOLET THE TOP IRONS WERE AS IF WELDED IN A HEAP.
I USED GIBS PENETRATING SPRAY. IT TOOK A WHILE BUT EVERYTHING IS LOOSE AND WORKD FREELY.

[svm99]

Originally Posted by Mart

I just realised we're talking about the top frame, not the chassis. Just mentioning it in case anyone else was thinking the same.

Yep, took me a bit also to realize the same

[blucar]

I have to admit that when I first read the tread 'Convertible Frame' I could not figure out why someone would want the connections/joints to be flexible. After re-reading the thread it dawned on me that the man was talking about the convertible 'Top' assembly, not the chassis frame.
Of course most people should know that the chassis/frame for early cars, pre-41 are the same, open, closed and pickups are basically the same.

[paul2748]

Gibbs, Kroil and PB Blaster are among some of he best penetrants to loosen things up.