'55 F100 new project, new member

[rotorwrench]

It looks like a basic early to mid 60s pickup engine set up with the modern Autolite 2100 carb that will function the distributors of that time frame, ie centrifugal advance with vacuum load control. This was the latest stuff used on the last of the 292 engines in 1964. That is as good as it gets for a stock 292 from that period. Distributors can be easily overhauled if the OP wants to go back to the OEM type set up for 1963/64. This is much better than what was available in 1955 since the Y-block was new and still in development flux in that time frame. The old Holley Load-O-Matic distributors back then were matched to the carburetor and left a lot to be desired.

The dash instruments were still 6-volt in 1955 so they were likely abandoned when a previous owner went to the later engine. The instruments may still work since the King Seeley stuff was very reliable. The temp sender was already mentioned and the oil pressure sender is also a King Seeley item in 1955. Instrument voltage regulators are available from several sources to drop the 12-volt system voltage to a usable voltage for those OEM indicators. The rest of the electrics such as light bulbs and ignition components were likely already updated to work. The original wiring harness will work fine for 12-volts but a 1955 wiring diagram will be needed to manage any further repairs or replacements. The engine electrics were likely late components to work with the late engine installation.

[Als48]

So Allen,

What is your current displacement of your rebuilt engine? Do the 312 pistons make it a .030 over 312 at around 318 cubic inches or a 030 over 292 at around 298 cubic inches?
Just curious.

Al Hook

[AllenV]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Can you give the source of the supplier?

PM Sent

[AllenV]

Originally Posted by Als48

So Allen,

What is your current displacement of your rebuilt engine? Do the 312 pistons make it a .030 over 312 at around 318 cubic inches or a 030 over 292 at around 298 cubic inches?
Just curious.

Al Hook

To clean up the bores we had to put in 030 over pistons for a 312. But we did not change the stroke from the 292.

here is the math:
new bore is 3.829 inches
stroke is 3.30 inches

new displacement is 304 cubic inches.

[AllenV]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

Sounds like that truck you bought for what was most likely a "reasonable amount" is getting "more reasonable " by the day. We all been thete.��

yep.

I do not plan to total it all up.

[AllenV]

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Originally Posted by rotorwrench

It looks like a basic early to mid 60s pickup engine set up with the modern Autolite 2100 carb that will function the distributors of that time frame, ie centrifugal advance with vacuum load control. This was the latest stuff used on the last of the 292 engines in 1964. That is as good as it gets for a stock 292 from that period. Distributors can be easily overhauled if the OP wants to go back to the OEM type set up for 1963/64. This is much better than what was available in 1955 since the Y-block was new and still in development flux in that time frame. The old Holley Load-O-Matic distributors back then were matched to the carburetor and left a lot to be desired.

The dash instruments were still 6-volt in 1955 so they were likely abandoned when a previous owner went to the later engine. The instruments may still work since the King Seeley stuff was very reliable. The temp sender was already mentioned and the oil pressure sender is also a King Seeley item in 1955. Instrument voltage regulators are available from several sources to drop the 12-volt system voltage to a usable voltage for those OEM indicators. The rest of the electrics such as light bulbs and ignition components were likely already updated to work. The original wiring harness will work fine for 12-volts but a 1955 wiring diagram will be needed to manage any further repairs or replacements. The engine electrics were likely late components to work with the late engine installation.

Yours is a fairly astute analysis. The original 272 is long gone. The 292 is from some unknown sedan donor. I am putting on a truck oil pan during this rebuild. One of the first thing I found after buying the truck was that the distributor was in bad shape with lots of end play and worn cam lobes. I put in a new one with Pertronix and proper vacuum advance. Including relocating the vacuum advance port to full manifold vacuum. The 2100 Autolite is retained. The motor ran surprisingly well in this configuration, considering the knackered state of the rotating internals.
I acquire it with a 12V GM alternator in place and a set of after market gauges attached to the bottom of the dash. The original instruments are in the dash but non-operational (but may be functional). Frankly the wiring is an absolute mess. The previous owner left the original wiring in place and ran new wire in a very haphazard fashion. All of it will be stripped out and replaced with a new harness.

[AllenV]

While still getting the rockers sorted, I have done an inventory of new gaskets on-hand and found an important one missing. This motor has the PCV breather mounted at the back of the valley pan, near the distributor. I attach a useful drawing. I have all the parts in the drawing, but the rubber is rock hard and the gasket 6879 and 44719-58 need replacing. I imagine the little straight hose sections are fairly generic and I can get those at NAPA.

Can any of you advise me as to where to find these gaskets? Or, what model and year of car is best to plug into web based parts data bases to hunt for them?

Many Thanks,
Allen

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by AllenV

. . .Can any of you advise me as to where to find these gaskets? . . .

Admittedly it was a few years ago but the NAPA up the hill on the north side of Intel has been good with supplying parts and nice substitutes for some odd-ball pieces.
I was in a hurry for a Baby Bird oil pan drain plug gasket and they found one on the shelf for a recent big Dodge diesel truck that was a perfect fit.

Taking them the old example pieces can make a big difference in finding what you need.
.

[KULTULZ]

Can any of you advise me as to where to find these gaskets? Or, what model and year of car is best to plug into web based parts data bases to hunt for them?

If you can't find them locally (FEL-PRO - VICTOR) -

https://bestgasket.com/vintage-engine-gaskets/

You especially want to use their rear seal.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by AllenV

What I know right now is that the motor was swapped out in favor of a later 292. the block casting is EDB-6015-E.

Here 'ya go -

FYB – 292 - 1959/

The Y-Block identification number on your year vehicle is located on the driver's side of the engine block above the oil filter. IF the engine block was cast during the 1959 model year before May of 1959, the CASTING ID will be EDB-6015-E. IF the engine block was cast in May of 1959 or later, the engine block CASTING ID will be B9AE 6015-F.

The reason for the difference in the engine block ID was Ford engineering making the decision to increase the length of the bolts used to secure the crankshaft main bearing caps to the engine block. It is believed that this was done to prevent cracks developing in the engine block main bearing webbing. This manufacturing change in the main cap bolt length was continued through the production of Y-Block engines during the 1964 model year and for service blocks supplied thereafter.

John goes on to say the 292 blocks from 1955-1964 are easier to find. In fact, improvements were made to 292 and 312 blocks in 1959 with deeper drilled main cap threads for strength. The 1961-1964 C1AE and C2AE blocks have additional material in the main webs for added strength. These blocks typically don’t sonic check as thick as earlier blocks according to John.

Therefore, he adds, if a good early block is found, drill and tap the main bearing cap threads deeper and use the early block. - HRM

[AllenV]

The trip to NAPA was worthwhile. The counter man took my old PCV "teapot" gasket and found that a Ford Distributor Mounting gasket (1955-95) FelPro PN70194 is the correct size for that larger bottom seal against the valley pan. But, it is a thin paper gasket. So, I bought some rubber-fiber gasket sheet and made my own.

Then, digging around in the unused bits of the motor rebuild gasket set, the umbrella-style valve seals looked just the trick to work on that 1/4-20 bolt at the top. Trimmed off the skirt portion and kept just the flat top part. Job done.

Have no fear, the valve have seal installed. The machine shop put them in. The ones in my gasket set are extra.

[Big Bear Butch]

How can I place an add in the swap meet? How can I inquire about something for sale? The Ford Barn seems very restrictive and cumbersome to a new member. How can I find out how thigs are done?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Big Bear Butch

How can I place an add in the swap meet? How can I inquire about something for sale? The Ford Barn seems very restrictive and cumbersome to a new member. How can I find out how thigs are done?

START HERE - https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/faq.php

I think you have to E-MAIL or PM the seller.

[AllenV]

I am having an unexpected challenge with the refurbished rocker arms.

I know these are an interference thread that is meant to be tight enough so as not to move while the motor is operating. But what minimum torque should I be getting from a "good" rocker arm and adjuster? What do you folks deem to be acceptable?

I am using an electronic torque wrench to measure the applied torque to move an adjuster. The values I get range from 19 ft-lbs down to 0 (zero). The 0 ones are actually somewhere below 3.9 ft-lbs, which the minimum my wrench will display.

If I throw out the "0" rockers, I have 16 rocker/adjuster pairs with at least 5 ft-lbs. Three of these are at 5 ft-lbs, the rest are over 10.

Are these good enough? My recourse is to cherry-pick from the old rockers and send a few to Rocker Arms Unlimited for refurb.

[Greg Rogers]

Been following you on here and FTE. I don't know the answer to your question about the adjuster. I will bump you up, You're doing great work, sure is sumptin how these projects escalate, huh??

[AllenV]

Thanks Greg. Yes, the old truck is the project that keeps on giving.

[AllenV]

I decided to shift the adjusters over to the two-piece style. I have enough rockers with the milled flat on the top that I readily do this. The two-piece adjusters are available new as a part for the 390-428 FE motor. The ball-end is 3/8".

After installation I set the lash at 0.020". This value comes from Ted Eaton at Y-Blocks Forever. He says that with cast iron heads and rockers the cold 0.020" gap will result in 0.019" on a warm motor.