Bushing Removal Tool

[Barnwood]

Where is a good place to purchase a bushing removal tool to be used in the clutch and brake pedal?

[alexiskai]

Only Bratton's sells it.
https://www.brattons.com/BRAKE-CLUTC...uctinfo/11191/

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Barnwood

Where is a good place to purchase a bushing removal tool to be used in the clutch and brake pedal?

If you do not have a lathe to make one, then just use a hacksaw blade to cut the bushings in two places (-180° opposite of each other) where it can be removed with a screwdriver. Freeze the new bushings prior to installing to make the installation easier.

[CT Jack]

For very difficult to remove bushings with a single access I have used the following:
Tap the inside diameter and insert a matching screw or bolt that is attached to a dent removal or sometimes called a dent knocker tool. This works very well and minimizes potential damage.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by CT Jack

For very difficult to remove bushings with a single access I have used the following:
Tap the inside diameter and insert a matching screw or bolt that is attached to a dent removal or sometimes called a dent knocker tool. This works very well and minimizes potential damage.

Also known as a Slide Hammer.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

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Originally Posted by CT Jack

For very difficult to remove bushings with a single access I have used the following:
Tap the inside diameter and insert a matching screw or bolt that is attached to a dent removal or sometimes called a dent knocker tool. This works very well and minimizes potential damage.

Good suggestion. I am set-up to do it this way since we do a dozen or more sets a year. Unfortunately, I'm afraid that is going to be kinda expensive since that is such a big thread size. The bushing ID is roughly 0.876", and the bore of the pedal is 0.939". A 15/16"-20 tap and a 29/32nds drill bit is likely going to set someone back around $100.00 to be able to use a bolt threaded into the bushing, ...which if someone is doing it as a once or twice task, I would think using a file or saw blade may still the best (-or most economical) option for most hobbyist.

[Marshall V. Daut]

I bought that tool earlier this year and it works GREAT. I used to hacksaw the old bushings and then dig them out with a chisel. A real pain in the tutu and inevitably a new scar on my hands or fingers was the result - besides a lot of cuss words about the Ford Engineering Department. The tool takes the old bushings right out slick as snot. Putting in the new ones is also a heck of a lot easier now, too. It does help to chamfer the leading edge of each bushing,
If you're going to do more than one set of pedals, this tool is worth the time, sweat and aggravation it saves. Maybe a local Model A club could chip in and buy this tool for the club's war chest.
Marshall

[katy]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Also known as a Slide Hammer.

Thanks, I suspected that's what the OP was talking about

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Good suggestion. I am set-up to do it this way since we do a dozen or more sets a year. Unfortunately, I'm afraid that is going to be kinda expensive since that is such a big thread size. The bushing ID is roughly 0.876", and the bore of the pedal is 0.939". A 15/16"-20 tap and a 29/32nds drill bit is likely going to set someone back around $100.00 to be able to use a bolt threaded into the bushing, ...which if someone is doing it as a once or twice task, I would think using a file or saw blade may still the best (-or most economical) option for most hobbyist.

I scored a set of Greenfield taps and dies 1/4" - 1" NC and NF at a flea market and bought it. I use the "thread the tap into the bushing and tap gently on the end of the tap with a brass punch" method for removing bushings from distributors but was unable to get it to work on the pedals (bushings were too tight), so I ended up doing the hacksaw method. Just be careful you keep the hacksaw blade parallel to the inside of the pedal so you don't cut into the pedal!

[daveymc29]

Funny, I've never thought of needing a tool for these. I use my vice and two sockets. one just smaller than the hole the bushing is in and one that is just a tad larger than the bushing, to push the bushing into. I have a set of 3/4 drive sockets that provide the receiving end. Just sqeeze them back into place with the vice.

The "ace" mechanic

[Gold Digger]

A good way to remove bushings and bearings is to heat the inside on one side only until red hot but do not melt. Wait until it cools and usably it can be slipped out with your fingers. When you heat something red hot in one place only, inside a diameter it squeezes the metal together at that point but when it cools off it has shrunk that diameter too the point it is a smaller diameter.

[Phil Brown]

I know that there are a lot of ways to skin a cat, but at $13 for the tool made to do the job seems to be kinda a no brainer

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Phil Brown

I know that there are a lot of ways to skin a cat, but at $13 for the tool made to do the job seems to be kinda a no brainer

Phil, you are absolutely correct ...however that stupid Shipping & Handling make that $13 quickly go to $33!!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Phil, you are absolutely correct ...however that stupid Shipping & Handling make that $13 quickly go to $33!!

Originally Posted by Gold Digger

A good way to remove bushings and bearings is to heat the inside on one side only until red hot but do not melt. Wait until it cools and usably it can be slipped out with your fingers. When you heat something red hot in one place only, inside a diameter it squeezes the metal together at that point but when it cools off it has shrunk that diameter too the point it is a smaller diameter.

Great tip!! I/We have used a welder to remove races from differentials and hubs before, but never thought about trying that on bushings. Thanx!!

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Phil Brown

I know that there are a lot of ways to skin a cat, but at $13 for the tool made to do the job seems to be kinda no brainer

Only if it works… I’ve purchased “special” tools that didn’t work. Once I purchased a bushing driver just like the one shown and when it turned up it was made from aluminum - and not hardened. Mushroomed into something useless.

[Phil Brown]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Phil, you are absolutely correct ...however that stupid Shipping & Handling make that $13 quickly go to $33!!

Whats aggravating is when said part shows up at your door in a small USPS flat rate box that is only $8.55 to send

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Phil Brown

Whats aggravating is when said part shows up at your door in a small USPS flat rate box that is only $8.55 to send

Just as an aside, that’s why I like to deal with Burts - they charge only the actual shipping cost.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

Only Bratton's sells it.
https://www.brattons.com/BRAKE-CLUTC...uctinfo/11191/

Only Brattons and even then, only for LHD cars. Can't even buy bushes for RHD.

[katy]

that stupid Shipping & Handling make that $13 quickly go to $33!!

Whats aggravating is when said part shows up at your door in a small USPS flat rate box that is only $8.55 to send

The difference, $11.45, is the "handling" charge.

[ModelA29]

Uesd my old clutch pilot bearing puller - https://www.grainger.com/product/48U...E&gclsrc=aw.ds


Squeeze them back in with a big C clamp