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05-09-2016, 12:04 PM | #61 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
The oil hole in the rod should be connected to the oil grooves
I wouldn't worry about the rust stains left on the cylinder walls I would pull the crankshaft to check the oil passages --- when the Babbitt came apart in my engine 3000 miles after rebuild I looked at 2 other engines done 5 and7 years after mine by the same company--- one had nice oil grooves but the wadding used to plug the oil holes for the pour was still there--- the other engine didn't have oil grooves or the oil hole drilled A thin valve on the intake won't matter, it's more important that the seats be cut properly and not be too wide |
05-09-2016, 02:25 PM | #62 | |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Quote:
A two-tone rebuild! |
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05-09-2016, 03:04 PM | #63 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Hi Art,
"Wow" ........ You got the Super-Deluxe Two-Tone Re-build Job! Seriously, we all sincerely wish everything will work to your satisfaction. |
05-09-2016, 04:47 PM | #64 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
If it only had a pinstripe... harhar!
I picked up a nice oilpan locally. I have a good distributor that needs a wiring job, and some little stuff on order. Then we'll see if we can make it run! |
05-09-2016, 06:19 PM | #65 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
I know of twenty or thirty engines Dave did the babbit on. So I'm pretty sure it's set up right, bearing wise. How ever, building the engine, obviously another story.
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05-10-2016, 04:42 AM | #66 | |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
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05-13-2016, 02:46 PM | #67 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Got it all cleaned up, but have to give my new oilpan the de-sludging treatment.
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05-13-2016, 02:57 PM | #68 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Hold that dip tray up to the light after you get it cleaned and look for pin holes.....if the oil drains out the tray the rods will not get oil for a short time on start-up...
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Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 |
05-13-2016, 03:31 PM | #69 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Thanks for the heads up, will do. I suppose small holes could be brazed closed?
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05-13-2016, 03:43 PM | #70 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
I silver brazed the holes on mine and it turned out OK but then found a good tray with no holes and so we used it....
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Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 |
05-13-2016, 04:13 PM | #71 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Art,
How did you get the tray out of the pan? I've tried throwing it on the ground upside down...no joy. |
05-13-2016, 04:38 PM | #72 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
2X2 or wooden baseball bat in the oil pump relief and just pry it out.
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05-13-2016, 06:08 PM | #73 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
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05-13-2016, 10:44 PM | #74 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Drop straight to the ground from shoulder height... popped right out. It's all clean now and looks in great shape.
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05-13-2016, 10:46 PM | #75 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Next will be the oil pump, I have two, and a rebuild kit. What makes for a usable oil pump? Or what makes for a worn out oil pump?
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05-13-2016, 11:39 PM | #76 | |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Quote:
Be sure the pump spring doesn't have any rust pits, which makes it likely to break in use. |
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05-14-2016, 02:03 AM | #77 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Hi Art,
[ "What makes for a usable oil pump?" ] Model A Oil Pump Test: 1. In a small pot, pan, coffee can, or other container, add about 2" deep of kerosene or diesel. 2. Place and submerge the bottom end of the assembled upright pump in the kerosene or diesel. 3. With thumb and middle*- finger, grab top of steel slotted pump shaft. 4. Rotate pump shaft with quick movement simulating snapping your fingers. 5. The kerosene or diesel should horizontally exit the two (2) holes located near the top of the oil pump. (Be prepared for kerosene or diesel squirting out about 12" on each side of the pump.) 6. Also, next, rotate the top of this same oil pump shaft back and forth with thumb and "any" finger ..... the gears should sound smooth and not have a rattling sound like a corn grinder that is grinding cracked corn ...... or two (2) skeletons tap dancing on a tin roof ...... or a woodpecker pecking rapidly on a metal stove pipe ...... or an AK-47 set on automatic and firing away from you at about 200 yards away ...... or something similar. * middle finger is the longest finger on one's hand ..... it also is the one that has other uses ..... like to greet an unfavorable politician appearing on a TV show. Hope this helps. Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 05-14-2016 at 02:05 AM. Reason: typo |
05-14-2016, 09:40 AM | #78 | |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Quote:
The first is of the old gears...quite a gap and it clattered like a ratchet spun backwards or woodpecker like H.L. described. The second is of the new gears, then the worn bottom plate. The machinist that rebuilt my engine made his own oil pump bushings as he felt the ones in the kit were not that good of a fit....no better than the old bushings really I noticed that too when I kitted the old engine pump and just replaced the gears and shafts.. The bottom spring is what holds the pump in place..if the spring breaks I was told the pump could fall into the pan and no more oil flow. Follow Tom's advice... And I don't think I used a gasket...it didn't need any extra clearance on the bottom plate, and where is it going to leak to?
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Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 Last edited by 1955cj5; 05-14-2016 at 09:50 AM. |
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05-14-2016, 09:56 AM | #79 | |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
Quote:
Yours looks great!
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05-14-2016, 07:12 PM | #80 |
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Re: Going to look at a rebuilt engine
My oil pumps differ from one another. Are they interchangeable?
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