installing new timing gear

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Exactly straight up from the key is a valley, and the next tooth to the right of this valley is always the timing tooth. It's easy to see without moving the oil slinger. The slinger is held tight to the gear by the crankshaft pulley.

Good to know, if I can't see the notch I can assume that it is on one first tooth right from the key.
There is a 2-3 inch space and shaft between the slinger and the pulley...this is where the rope seals are placed... oil pan below and timing grear cover above

[Bob C]

You can't get the slinger off with the pulley and the pan inplace.

Bob

[Bill's Auto Works]

Originally Posted by Bob C

You can't get the slinger off with the pulley and the pan inplace.

Bob

Sorry, I misspoke

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Bob C

You can't get the slinger off with the pulley and the pan inplace.

Bob

Don't need to remove it just need to slide it forward 1/8 inch so that I can see the timing notch under it.
But If the timing notch is always the first tooth to the right of the woodrift key then I done have to see the notch only the woodrift key to locate the timing notch? Right?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Correct, no need to move the slinger at all. It's the same key that enters the U slot in the pulley. Just follow it straight up and mark the tooth to the right. A drop of white paint will mark it.

BTW, the Dollar Store sells 2 white out pens for a buck. These have a ball point that you push back while pressing down, and out comes fast drying white paint. Perfect for marking the slinger. Just shake the pen before using.

[tbirdtbird]

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the slinger mostly tries to keep oil away from the crank seal, so as not to overload it.
Cam gear gets a boatload of oil from the valve chamber 'waterfall'

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Correct, no need to move the slinger at all. It's the same key that enters the U slot in the pulley. Just follow it straight up and mark the tooth to the right. A drop of white paint will mark it.

BTW, the Dollar Store sells 2 white out pens for a buck. These have a ball point that you push back while pressing down, and out comes fast drying white paint. Perfect for marking the slinger. Just shake the pen before using.

Thanks for you help...You saved the day!

[FrankWest]

My son was over today and took a photo of the crank gear near the woodfrit key and like magic the index mark showed up. Right where you guys said it would be on the next tooth right of the woodrift ket. He is sending me the photo and I will post on here.
His smart phone take better picture than my camera. What a world.
Thanks again for all your important and helpfull comments.

[Tom Wesenberg]

For a phone, that is a good picture. Most of them I see are rather poor quality or out of focus.

[mshmodela]

Wow that mark is small, I think I'd need these:



http://www.walmart.com/ip/INSTEN-20x...Light/34531079

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by mshmodela

Wow that mark is small, I think I'd need these:



http://www.walmart.com/ip/INSTEN-20x...Light/34531079

Funny....I think I should buy these!

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by mshmodela

Wow that mark is small, I think I'd need these:



http://www.walmart.com/ip/INSTEN-20x...Light/34531079

The sad thing about these is they are sooooo cheap.
I repair watches and paid 75 dollars for a jewelers loup and it was still cheaply made. I think usable quality glasses like these, that you see surgeons using cost $500.00

[Bill's Auto Works]

I just read the reviews of these glasses. YOu can only use one eye at a time & the item must be 1/4 inch from the lens to be in focus.....JUNK!

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Bill's Auto Works

I just read the reviews of these glasses. YOu can only use one eye at a time & the item must be 1/4 inch from the lens to be in focus.....JUNK!

Hi bill,

good usable Optical equipment is very expensive.
Usable jewelers loupes cost approx 65$ dollars. these have decent glass lenses, 10X. If you need 20X they can cost 150$ for decent usable quality.

[FrankWest]

don't worry this is my last post

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

I have lined up my Timing gear with the crank gear and hand tightened the nut.

Post #3. As I've mentioned before, for some reason some folks don't read the posts.

[FrankWest]

My new aluminum gear seems tight..does not fit down the last 1/4-1/2 inch.. Do these fit tight or do they need adjusting to fit down on the pins?

[AL in NY]

FrankWest: If you have everything lined up (ie - timing marks and pins) you need to torque the cam nut to 50 foot/lbs which will bring the gear down tight on the cam.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

FrankWest: If you have everything lined up (ie - timing marks and pins) you need to torque the cam nut to 50 foot/lbs which will bring the gear down tight on the cam.

strange thing is that..even thought the cam pins are slightly off center and the tim gear is supposed to go on only one way....It seems to go on both ways which has me worried....Those pins are so slightly off center that it is hard to establish that you are putting the gear on right. I guess an experienced mechanic can feel the difference?

[AL in NY]

The gear should fit tightly on the pins, but don't force it. Line up the gear as best you can and start the tighten the nut on the camshaft. If the gear doesn't start to slid down the pins with only a minimal effort turning the nut, then it's not in the right orientation. Take the gear off and rotate the camshaft about 180 degrees, align the pins and timing marks and try again. The cam gear is a tight fit onto the camshaft, but it should not take the whole 50 ft/lbs of torque to seat the gear on the camshaft.