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08-25-2022, 08:05 AM | #21 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
For the amount of money it would cost to weld/regrind the crank (and the time to drag it around) - I'm sure you could find either another crank and/or try the "iron a bearing fix". I like my crankshaft thrust to be between .004 and .006 inches.
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08-25-2022, 02:48 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Quote:
Pre-heat and controlled cooling are part of the process. |
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08-25-2022, 02:51 PM | #23 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
I ran the engine for a few miles but have yanked it out as it does not seem happy. I'll have to look at it in more detail when time permits. Installing a plodder motor for the event this weekend.
I will look at adding babbit / white metal. I have no knowledge about it though. |
08-25-2022, 10:54 PM | #24 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Mart, A talented man such as yourself will have absolutely no trouble building up the thrust faces. As I mentioned above, use a big soldering iron [more control that using a torch]; you don't want to damage the existing bearing material that the journal runs on. I use 'Fluxite' paste [made in England, so you should be able to source it easily], NOT an acid based flux [spirits of salts etc]. It'll build up real easy; like, the faces are already tinned for all accounts. Practice on an old bearing first? Good luck!
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08-25-2022, 11:23 PM | #25 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Good advice Brian. An old guy in my model T club does this with the babet thrust on the poured babet to save an otherwise good engine. Finishes the face with a home made gizmo like a line boring tool
Last edited by cas3; 08-25-2022 at 11:25 PM. Reason: add |
08-26-2022, 01:35 AM | #26 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
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08-26-2022, 02:36 AM | #27 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
I think babbit and white metal are much the same thing. Just a lead/tin alloy. I think different grades are available, but I just use what I can find 'unknown providence'. I find it cast as ingots, normally it is melted in a pot and poured into a mold, but you can melt some off the ingot with the iron and apply. Basically, it is just like solder....
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08-26-2022, 05:07 AM | #28 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Could solder be used?
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08-26-2022, 05:58 AM | #29 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Mart, I think babbit has a much higher tin content than ordinary solder. possibly try here, they're in England; https://www.williamrowlandshop.com/a...itt-metals.htm
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08-26-2022, 06:05 AM | #30 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Sorry Mart, to buy one ingot from that site will cost 53.12 Pounds? WR89A (BS3332/A) is their code for babbit. The stuff is available, ask around, someone into the repair etc of vintage cars should be able to furnish some. Good luck!
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08-26-2022, 06:59 AM | #31 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Thanks Brian, I just got off the phone with another supplier, he will get me what I need. Thanks for the guidance.
Mart. |
08-26-2022, 07:04 AM | #32 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Mart, I had this same problem with a French motor. When the motor was being reassembled we noticed the excessive end float and came to a stop. I sold the engine to Jim T and told him about the problem before we finalised the deal. I believe it is not uncommon on these motors and Jim has a solution to it.
Give Jim a call and see if he can put you straight. |
08-26-2022, 07:39 AM | #33 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
It sounds to me like they must have had a different (wider) rear main bearing in these French motors - especially since you said the crank is in great shape with no outward sign of thrust surface wear. I wonder if you can locate a new rear main bearing - the 'French Flathead width'?
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08-26-2022, 02:06 PM | #34 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Dale raises an interesting point...Ford also provided rear main bearings with oversized thrust faces. The only listing for such in my Canadian catalogue is #81A 6331T which is .015 os on thrust faces, but .030 us on journal.
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08-27-2022, 01:06 PM | #35 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Just a little input on this very interesting problem Mart.
I like the idea of building up the thrust surface of the bearing to restore the proper thrust, but I would do it a little differently. With your skills and tools you should have no problem using solder to attach a brass shim to the thrust surface, and machine as necessary. Tin the brass shim prior to soldering. I personally feel the end result will guarantee a more durable fix. |
08-27-2022, 05:02 PM | #36 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
How about a thin shim BEHIND the thrust to force the surface out .007 on each side??
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08-28-2022, 11:51 AM | #37 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Deuce5window.....The way the bearing fits the saddle would require the bearing thrust to be bent outward and then machined parallel to the crank thrust surface. I dont like the need to make the shim to properly backup the bearing thrust. Have i lost you........?
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08-28-2022, 01:10 PM | #38 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Crazy question if you can't find an org thrust bearing that has the thicker thrust surface, if you have to do something to the bearing you have would it be best to do the work on the front side that it will just have normal thrust load and not the back where it has clutch pressure against it?
Steve |
08-28-2022, 02:07 PM | #39 | |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
Quote:
Absolutely correct. The .015" or so that Mart needs would cause no problem if done as you suggest. Terry
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08-28-2022, 04:49 PM | #40 |
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Re: Excessive crank end float.
No Russ, you didn't lose me (yet lol) but we are only talking .007 on each side and as far as straightening the side it could be done on a flat surface with sandpaper after the sides are forced out by the shims. Just tossing out an idea.
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