The Ford Barn

37fatfender · 07-11-2010, 05:22 PM

I just got back from a 100 mile cruise with a bunch of guys. So, I am about to back my car into the garage and it stalls. Cranking and cranking car won't start. I open the hood and gas is leaking from the front carb thootle rod. I am running a Thickstun PM7 with 2 97's. Stock fuel pump and ignition. I am assuming I have a float problem.......any ideas what cause gas to leak this way would be appreciated. I also assume this may be the reason it runs rich.

BOSSY · 07-11-2010, 06:29 PM

Needle and seat with dirt in it or float with hole and it sunk! My guess.

anut · 07-11-2010, 06:36 PM

same thing just happend on on one of my model ays float was full of gas

ken ct · 07-11-2010, 06:49 PM

Most likely float has a pin hole in it.That can be soldered up. A seam leak is much more difficult to fix.Hold float in hot water it will bubble from the leak. I have floats if you need one. ken ct. Also use a steel needle NOT a rubber tipped one.

37fatfender · 07-12-2010, 12:30 PM

Ok, I took the trouble carb off my intake, got my rebuild kit off the shelf, Napa/Echlin #2-5101. Only to find it had the rubber tipped needle valve seat. My other observations on my first 97 rebuild is that I was unable to remove the Main Metering Jets, is a special tool required? I was a little timid and didn't want to force the things out. Also, a the By-Pass Jet had a "55" stamped in it, I thought somewhere I read that I should use "45's", on a mild engine with dual carbs. Where do I get the tools and parts to do a "Complete" rebuild and what metering jets should I be using? By the way the float was fine and had not leaks.

Mike51Merc · 07-12-2010, 01:38 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 37fatfender

Ok, I took the trouble carb off my intake, got my rebuild kit off the shelf, Napa/Echlin #2-5101. Only to find it had the rubber tipped needle valve seat. My other observations on my first 97 rebuild is that I was unable to remove the Main Metering Jets, is a special tool required? I was a little timid and didn't want to force the things out. Also, a the By-Pass Jet had a "55" stamped in it, I thought somewhere I read that I should use "45's", on a mild engine with dual carbs. Where do I get the tools and parts to do a "Complete" rebuild and what metering jets should I be using? By the way the float was fine and had not leaks.

You MUST get a jet wrench and a good one at that. Take your time, lube up the threads with penetrating oil and don't force them at all. When you get movement, go back and forth a bit to lube and clean the threads as you extract them.

If you're doing a rebuild, you'll also need a tool (or make one) for removing the emulsion tubes.

45 is the standard main jet size for a 97.

Check out www.vintagespeed.com
Some people say Charlie is a grouch and a little slow on shipping, but he's always done right by me.

Ol' Ron · 07-12-2010, 04:59 PM

Henry Gave up on this carb. after 3 years. I understand the new British one don't leak

Grandadeo · 07-12-2010, 05:13 PM

If it makes you fell any better, even my Stromberg 97 coffee mug leaks.

Lee

uncle max · 07-12-2010, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 37fatfender

Ok, I took the trouble carb off my intake, got my rebuild kit off the shelf, Napa/Echlin #2-5101. Only to find it had the rubber tipped needle valve seat. My other observations on my first 97 rebuild is that I was unable to remove the Main Metering Jets, is a special tool required? I was a little timid and didn't want to force the things out. Also, a the By-Pass Jet had a "55" stamped in it, I thought somewhere I read that I should use "45's", on a mild engine with dual carbs. Where do I get the tools and parts to do a "Complete" rebuild and what metering jets should I be using? By the way the float was fine and had not leaks.

The best combo for most rascally flatheads is .043 main jets with #69 bypass jets (powervalves). Jets and pv's need to be married to each other. Keep in mind that the orifice in the powervalve gets bigger as the number decreases. A # 55 pv is usually used for alcohol or methanol. It's no wonder that you're running rich...
Stainless knurled "T" handle jet wrenches are available from yours truly.

BillM · 07-12-2010, 06:35 PM

The Webrodder site has a good article on Stromberg rebuilding if you are going to do your own.
http://www.webrodder.com/

Straightpipes · 07-12-2010, 10:42 PM

Send it to Max.

1952henry · 07-13-2010, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle max

The best combo for most rascally flatheads is .043 main jets with #69 bypass jets (powervalves). Jets and pv's need to be married to each other. Keep in mind that the orifice in the powervalve gets bigger as the number decreases. A # 55 pv is usually used for alcohol or methanol. It's no wonder that you're running rich...
Stainless knurled "T" handle jet wrenches are available from yours truly.

Quality-wise, Uncle Max's jet wrenches are worth the coin if you are going to fool with your Strombergs.

Bruce Lancaster · 07-13-2010, 10:39 AM

He makes some other goodies, too. I have one of his hidden-passage blowerouter tools for the floor passages/tubes...works great even with my Ford B-17052 air compressor. Is there a listing available??
From what I hear, he has the only strong modern-made jet wrench. Stromberg jets can be remarkably resistant to removal and will indeed break bad tools. I don't have one because I had already lucked into vintage Snap-on and Plomb ones.

ken ct · 07-13-2010, 12:14 PM

Bruce ive broken Snap-On's, Mac's and many others. Ive had some made by a retired tool+die maker and are of excellent quality and havent broken one yet. ken ct.

Chet/Ma. · 07-13-2010, 03:43 PM

It looks like 29 jet wrenchs.

ken ct · 07-13-2010, 04:00 PM

Yea aint they great Chet. LOL ken ct.

38 coupe · 07-15-2010, 08:50 PM

I had to lower the float in my 97 four times to get the fuel level correct. I took the top off the carb and cranked the engine with the starter while the ignition was off. This allowed me to watch how high the fuel level would get without the danger of running the motor with the carb top off. My 97 doesn't leak now, it just slowly gets grimy on the outside.

07-11-2010, 06:36 PM	#3
anut Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 47	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? same thing just happend on on one of my model ays float was full of gas

07-11-2010, 06:49 PM	#4
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? Most likely float has a pin hole in it.That can be soldered up. A seam leak is much more difficult to fix.Hold float in hot water it will bubble from the leak. I have floats if you need one. ken ct. Also use a steel needle NOT a rubber tipped one.

07-12-2010, 12:30 PM	#5
37fatfender Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mesquite, NV / Gurnee, IL Posts: 298	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? Ok, I took the trouble carb off my intake, got my rebuild kit off the shelf, Napa/Echlin #2-5101. Only to find it had the rubber tipped needle valve seat. My other observations on my first 97 rebuild is that I was unable to remove the Main Metering Jets, is a special tool required? I was a little timid and didn't want to force the things out. Also, a the By-Pass Jet had a "55" stamped in it, I thought somewhere I read that I should use "45's", on a mild engine with dual carbs. Where do I get the tools and parts to do a "Complete" rebuild and what metering jets should I be using? By the way the float was fine and had not leaks.

07-12-2010, 04:59 PM	#7
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,864	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? Henry Gave up on this carb. after 3 years. I understand the new British one don't leak

07-12-2010, 05:13 PM	#8
Grandadeo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Jensen Beach, FL Posts: 565	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? If it makes you fell any better, even my Stromberg 97 coffee mug leaks. Lee __________________ Salt Is Good... Mk 9:50

07-11-2010, 06:29 PM	#2
BOSSY Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: UXBRIDGE, MA. Posts: 316	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? Needle and seat with dirt in it or float with hole and it sunk! My guess. __________________ BOSSY

07-12-2010, 06:35 PM	#10
BillM Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Everett, WA Posts: 504	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? The Webrodder site has a good article on Stromberg rebuilding if you are going to do your own. http://www.webrodder.com/ __________________ My web page: http://myplace.frontier.com/~wgmumaw/

07-12-2010, 10:42 PM	#11
Straightpipes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ballston Spa, NY Posts: 789	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? Send it to Max.

07-13-2010, 10:39 AM	#13
Bruce Lancaster Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Madison, NJ Posts: 5,230	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? He makes some other goodies, too. I have one of his hidden-passage blowerouter tools for the floor passages/tubes...works great even with my Ford B-17052 air compressor. Is there a listing available?? From what I hear, he has the only strong modern-made jet wrench. Stromberg jets can be remarkably resistant to removal and will indeed break bad tools. I don't have one because I had already lucked into vintage Snap-on and Plomb ones.

07-13-2010, 12:14 PM	#14
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? Bruce ive broken Snap-On's, Mac's and many others. Ive had some made by a retired tool+die maker and are of excellent quality and havent broken one yet. ken ct.

07-13-2010, 04:00 PM	#16
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? Yea aint they great Chet. LOL ken ct.

07-15-2010, 08:50 PM	#17
38 coupe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Texas Posts: 1,631	Re: Leaking 97, whats my problem? I had to lower the float in my 97 four times to get the fuel level correct. I took the top off the carb and cranked the engine with the starter while the ignition was off. This allowed me to watch how high the fuel level would get without the danger of running the motor with the carb top off. My 97 doesn't leak now, it just slowly gets grimy on the outside.