The Ford Barn

Dennisfly · 09-10-2023, 05:58 PM

Did a lube job and noticed this on the right front shock. The rear shock arms have a clamp bolt arrangement to retain them but this looks like it was swadged on. Is this repairable, or do I need a new shock?

DavidG · 09-10-2023, 07:04 PM

Probably a new one or at least a good replacement. That's an unusual failure.

Lawson Cox · 09-10-2023, 07:15 PM

David: Can't that be pinned? Or welded, Or both?

DavidG · 09-10-2023, 08:04 PM

Yes, if the shock is otherwise good.

petehoovie · 09-11-2023, 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dennisfly

Did a lube job and noticed this on the right front shock. The rear shock arms have a clamp bolt arrangement to retain them but this looks like it was swadged on. Is this repairable, or do I need a new shock?

Dennisfly · 09-11-2023, 11:35 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I do have a stick welder. Anyone know what metals I'd be dealing with here? Cast or forged? Would 6013 rod work? If weldable, I'd think a couple of short beads just to keep it from sliding off and so as to not overheat the shock. Comments please from someone that knows more about welding than I!

ndnchf · 09-11-2023, 04:34 PM

Dennis - are you talking about welding the arm onto the shaft? How about using some form of Loctite on the splines? They make many different types.
Steve

Dennisfly · 09-13-2023, 05:45 PM

Steve,
Good idea. I hadn't thought of that. In the mean time, I noticed that it appears that the shaft had been staked with a punch to retain the arm. I put the arm back on and re-staked around the perimeter with a center punch. I couldn't get a very powerful swing with the hammer, but we shall see. I drove about 10 miles and crossed two RR tracks and it is still on, but I will watch it and use your suggestion if it comes off again.

Brian · 09-14-2023, 11:06 PM

Yes, I noticed how someone had gone around it with a centre punch. Rather than welding the arm on, [which is a bit crude, particularly if you ever want to remove the arm for any reason, you could put a couple of 'scotch keys' in it. What is a scotch key you ask....if you utilise a couple of your dot punches, you could drill and tap say 1/2" deep and fit a couple of grub screws. Half of each thread is in the shaft, the other half is in the arm, That will ensure the arm stays in place, and in the future, should servicing ever need to occur, the grub screws can be removed to enable arm to come off. just a suggestion....

09-10-2023, 07:04 PM	#2
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: Shock Arm 1935 Probably a new one or at least a good replacement. That's an unusual failure.

09-10-2023, 07:15 PM	#3
Lawson Cox Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Above the gnat line in Georgia Posts: 7,009	Re: Shock Arm 1935 David: Can't that be pinned? Or welded, Or both? __________________ Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer to the end, the faster it goes. It is better to be seen, than viewed. "We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm". Last edited by Lawson Cox; 09-10-2023 at 07:21 PM.

09-10-2023, 08:04 PM	#4
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: Shock Arm 1935 Yes, if the shock is otherwise good.

09-11-2023, 11:35 AM	#6
Dennisfly Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: Virginia Posts: 140	Re: Shock Arm 1935 Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I do have a stick welder. Anyone know what metals I'd be dealing with here? Cast or forged? Would 6013 rod work? If weldable, I'd think a couple of short beads just to keep it from sliding off and so as to not overheat the shock. Comments please from someone that knows more about welding than I! __________________ 1929 Town Sedan (Briggs) 155B, Mitchell Overdrive 1935 Model 48 Tudor

09-11-2023, 04:34 PM	#7
ndnchf Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia Posts: 762	Re: Shock Arm 1935 Dennis - are you talking about welding the arm onto the shaft? How about using some form of Loctite on the splines? They make many different types. Steve

09-13-2023, 05:45 PM	#8
Dennisfly Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: Virginia Posts: 140	Re: Shock Arm 1935 Steve, Good idea. I hadn't thought of that. In the mean time, I noticed that it appears that the shaft had been staked with a punch to retain the arm. I put the arm back on and re-staked around the perimeter with a center punch. I couldn't get a very powerful swing with the hammer, but we shall see. I drove about 10 miles and crossed two RR tracks and it is still on, but I will watch it and use your suggestion if it comes off again. __________________ 1929 Town Sedan (Briggs) 155B, Mitchell Overdrive 1935 Model 48 Tudor

09-14-2023, 11:06 PM	#9
Brian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Masterton, New Zealand Posts: 3,834	Re: Shock Arm 1935 Yes, I noticed how someone had gone around it with a centre punch. Rather than welding the arm on, [which is a bit crude, particularly if you ever want to remove the arm for any reason, you could put a couple of 'scotch keys' in it. What is a scotch key you ask....if you utilise a couple of your dot punches, you could drill and tap say 1/2" deep and fit a couple of grub screws. Half of each thread is in the shaft, the other half is in the arm, That will ensure the arm stays in place, and in the future, should servicing ever need to occur, the grub screws can be removed to enable arm to come off. just a suggestion.... __________________ Unfortunately, two half wits don't make a whole wit!