The Ford Barn

Stillrunners · 05-31-2010, 12:50 PM

bought my A with " a running motor on stand"...that was tight to turn over by hand/wrench...pulling the head I found form a gasket had run down in the cylinders...cleaned up...checked oil which is pumping up to the valve area behind the side plate...still not and easy turn over...now I guess I need to pull the caps - main and rods...what are the tourqe specs for the rods and mains?...think it's going to be a piston issue...motor does look clean...

A clean 1.jpg

A clean 2.jpg

A clean 3.jpg

A clean 4.jpg

Stillrunners · 05-31-2010, 12:53 PM

here's the before...all cleaner and oils have run through past the rings overnight....

A motor cab 1.jpg

A motor cab 2.jpg

A motor cab 3.jpg

James Rogers · 05-31-2010, 12:54 PM

Rods 40 pounds torque then to next hole to align. Mains 75 pounds then to next hole to align.

Tom Wesenberg · 05-31-2010, 01:05 PM

Why are the intake valves so recessed? Did someone use stock valves after boring for larger intake valves?

"A running engine" doesn't tell much about the condition. Maybe now would be a good time for a complete teardown. I would at least look very closely at the babbit for the mains and rods.

As far as the recessed intake valves, oversized intakes might fix that problem, rather than install valve seats.

rollingsculpture · 05-31-2010, 01:32 PM

hi james what do you mean "to next hole to align" what gets aligned?

pat in Santa Cruz · 05-31-2010, 01:53 PM

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I agree with Tom regarding the valves and a tear down. The quality of work represented by permatexing the ( old?) gasket, using old valves, the odd seat situation, etc, bears further investigation before you invest time in an installation. It will be time well spent rather than gambling that time spent installing it first will not require a tear down later

It might need a proper valve job. I would also plastigage the bearings. Its possible the tightness is from someone adjusting the bearings too tight and expecting to "burn them in".

When the pistons are off the crank you can feel if they are stuck by moving them through the cylinder. Run a feeler gauge up the skirt when they are at the bottom of the cylinder. Clearance should be no less than .002.

What does the cam timing gear look like? Its not unusual for one that has been sitting to tear off part of a tooth when its first moved. The ones with the metal center are junk and should be replaced anyway.

Every engine from an unknown source (and one from a known source) that I have torn down needed something corrected that would have driven me nuts if I had installed it first. If only for the sense of certainly about the engine's condition (and its usually much more than that) I've never regretted doing it.

roccaas · 05-31-2010, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James Rogers

Rods 40 pounds torque then to next hole to align. Mains 75 pounds then to next hole to align.

I just the big end on #3 with 35 lbs. torque + next hole for the cotter pin. I believe this was the spec in Les Andrew's valuable book.

Is 5 lbs. on the light side going to be a problem long term? This is a stock engine, run only at street speeds several times a week. Do I need to take the pan off and redo this to 40 lbs. and .0015 on the Platigauge?

Thanks

roccaas · 05-31-2010, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rollingsculpture

hi james what do you mean "to next hole to align" what gets aligned?

Allows the cotter pin to pass through the crown nut.

rollingsculpture · 05-31-2010, 07:01 PM

oh i get it , didnt think of that as it was just something that seemed to naturally need to be done to get the cotters back in i guess some might try to loosen that increment but that wouldnt be the correct torque so ...tighten to set cotters . makes sense now, thanks

TK in LA · 05-31-2010, 07:11 PM

Be sure to check and replace the cam gear as necessary

James Rogers · 05-31-2010, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roccaas

I just the big end on #3 with 35 lbs. torque + next hole for the cotter pin. I believe this was the spec in Les Andrew's valuable book.

Is 5 lbs. on the light side going to be a problem long term? This is a stock engine, run only at street speeds several times a week. Do I need to take the pan off and redo this to 40 lbs. and .0015 on the Platigauge?

Thanks

At that area 5 pounds won't matter.

Stillrunners · 05-31-2010, 08:11 PM

thanks all...all good guideance....the car was "put together" I knew that...but the engine quote I got from the guy was "it was running on a stand"...just can't believe...so tear down it would be...saw a mention of a "book"...have some good "Clymers" but not really much on tear down rebuild - is there on I should be looking for to help with the rebuild?...thanks again for all the great feedback!

Mike V. Florida · 05-31-2010, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stillrunners

saw a mention of a "book"... is there on I should be looking for to help with the rebuild?...

The red Les Andrews book (while not perfect) is the best out there.

Stillrunners · 06-01-2010, 11:42 AM

thanks - here are some tools I've picked up over time...some I know what they are and have used....some I don't know.....also a pic of a A motor that was turned into a "compresser" motor - which was a nice job - and is my back-up motor that I plan to put on the road...it turns - but the #2 and # 3 holes have a little rust...also the lifters are missing on those two cylinders...

IMAG0008.jpg

IMAG0007.jpg

IMAG0006.jpg

IMAG0005.jpg

IMAG0003.jpg

IMAG0004.jpg

IMAG0010.jpg

05-31-2010, 12:50 PM	#1
Stillrunners Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 62	first A engine tear down bought my A with " a running motor on stand"...that was tight to turn over by hand/wrench...pulling the head I found form a gasket had run down in the cylinders...cleaned up...checked oil which is pumping up to the valve area behind the side plate...still not and easy turn over...now I guess I need to pull the caps - main and rods...what are the tourqe specs for the rods and mains?...think it's going to be a piston issue...motor does look clean... A clean 1.jpg A clean 2.jpg A clean 3.jpg A clean 4.jpg

05-31-2010, 01:05 PM	#4
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: first A engine tear down Why are the intake valves so recessed? Did someone use stock valves after boring for larger intake valves? "A running engine" doesn't tell much about the condition. Maybe now would be a good time for a complete teardown. I would at least look very closely at the babbit for the mains and rods. As far as the recessed intake valves, oversized intakes might fix that problem, rather than install valve seats.

05-31-2010, 01:32 PM	#5
rollingsculpture Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Takoma park md Posts: 271	Re: first A engine tear down hi james what do you mean "to next hole to align" what gets aligned? __________________ Rust and roll will never die

05-31-2010, 01:53 PM	#6
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: first A engine tear down Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I agree with Tom regarding the valves and a tear down. The quality of work represented by permatexing the ( old?) gasket, using old valves, the odd seat situation, etc, bears further investigation before you invest time in an installation. It will be time well spent rather than gambling that time spent installing it first will not require a tear down later It might need a proper valve job. I would also plastigage the bearings. Its possible the tightness is from someone adjusting the bearings too tight and expecting to "burn them in". When the pistons are off the crank you can feel if they are stuck by moving them through the cylinder. Run a feeler gauge up the skirt when they are at the bottom of the cylinder. Clearance should be no less than .002. What does the cam timing gear look like? Its not unusual for one that has been sitting to tear off part of a tooth when its first moved. The ones with the metal center are junk and should be replaced anyway. Every engine from an unknown source (and one from a known source) that I have torn down needed something corrected that would have driven me nuts if I had installed it first. If only for the sense of certainly about the engine's condition (and its usually much more than that) I've never regretted doing it.

05-31-2010, 07:01 PM	#9
rollingsculpture Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Takoma park md Posts: 271	Re: first A engine tear down oh i get it , didnt think of that as it was just something that seemed to naturally need to be done to get the cotters back in i guess some might try to loosen that increment but that wouldnt be the correct torque so ...tighten to set cotters . makes sense now, thanks __________________ Rust and roll will never die

05-31-2010, 12:53 PM	#2
Stillrunners Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 62	Re: first A engine tear down here's the before...all cleaner and oils have run through past the rings overnight.... A motor cab 1.jpg A motor cab 2.jpg A motor cab 3.jpg

05-31-2010, 12:54 PM	#3
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Re: first A engine tear down Rods 40 pounds torque then to next hole to align. Mains 75 pounds then to next hole to align.

05-31-2010, 07:11 PM	#10
TK in LA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: La Verne, Ca. Posts: 827	Re: first A engine tear down Be sure to check and replace the cam gear as necessary

05-31-2010, 08:11 PM	#12
Stillrunners Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 62	Re: first A engine tear down thanks all...all good guideance....the car was "put together" I knew that...but the engine quote I got from the guy was "it was running on a stand"...just can't believe...so tear down it would be...saw a mention of a "book"...have some good "Clymers" but not really much on tear down rebuild - is there on I should be looking for to help with the rebuild?...thanks again for all the great feedback!

06-01-2010, 11:42 AM	#14
Stillrunners Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 62	Re: first A engine tear down thanks - here are some tools I've picked up over time...some I know what they are and have used....some I don't know.....also a pic of a A motor that was turned into a "compresser" motor - which was a nice job - and is my back-up motor that I plan to put on the road...it turns - but the #2 and # 3 holes have a little rust...also the lifters are missing on those two cylinders... IMAG0008.jpg IMAG0007.jpg IMAG0006.jpg IMAG0005.jpg IMAG0003.jpg IMAG0004.jpg IMAG0010.jpg