Water leak in cylinder

[Arlyn Bieber]

Have an Model A engine that developed a pin hole half way down number 3 cylinder. Bored the cylinder and installed a sleeve thinking that would stop the water leak but now when I air test the water jacket I get bubbles between the sleeve and the block both at the top and bottom of the sleeve. Does anyone have a solution for this leakage or do I now have a boat anchor!!

[larrys40]

Arlyn
Sounds like the problem may have gotten worse after boring for the sleeve.
I’m not sure it’s solvable from the sleeve fit standpoint without some internal block seal.
And ... that may not be a good long term solution. I will check with Palmer here tomorrow. Personally I’ve never had that one... always something new. Maybe Herm Konke will chime in.
I think the long term and peace of mind a different block may be the best long term option.
Larry

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

If this is a “running” block, I would sure put it together and try the block seal.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I "wonder" how many blocks have imperfections in the casting process???
I saw factory film, casting blocks on a moveable conveyor!!!! It was FRIGIN' AMAZING!!!Bill W.

[CWPASADENA]

I would put the engine together and use K&W Block Seal.


I have had very good results with this stuff for many years with many problems..


Just follow the directions.


I have a leaking exhaust valve seat ring in my Tour Car that I sealed. More than 15K miles and no leak.


My experience.


Chris W.

[Jungle Jim]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If you can get a vacuum on the water jacket you will be able to use Locktite. The vacuum will suck the Locktite into the porosity and in the presence of metal and absence of air it will seal the leak. This is common procedure used in die casting aluminum engine blocks and transmission cases.

Jim

[Benson]

It seems to me that the use of antifreeze in the cooling system for the last 88 years by previous owners and not water might have prevented this problem.


Or at least slowed down the rusting process.



Just thinking out loud.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

This:

http://www.irontite.com/store/index....&products_id=1


.
.

[larrys40]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

This:

http://www.irontite.com/store/index....&products_id=1


.
.

Brent,
Thanks for the link for us. I take it you have favorable result and experience on it. Any tips for use and success?
Larry

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by larrys40

Brent,
Thanks for the link for us. I take it you have favorable result and experience on it. Any tips for use and success?
Larry

Yeah Mr. Shepherd, it has been around for years. The parent company is Kwik-Way and Van Norman who manufacture automotive machine shop equipment for engine rebuilders.


As for Arlyn's situation, I would do it a couple of ways. If it is just a bare block, just make sure the water jackets are really clean of oil and loose grit. Then make a block-off plate for the water jackets at the head surface. I have a block-off plate that I use for pressure testing Model-A/B blocks but a sheet of rubber will work the same and just punch holes for the head studs and slide a head over the top to provide a backing for the rubber to seal. Add a few nuts to clamp the head and you are good. I would lay the block onto its side with the water inlet upwards, and put a small space heater (like office secretaries have under their desks) inside the block to bring up the temps of the block. Then mix up a gallon of the sealer in water and put it on a hot plate to come up to a simmer. Pour the sealer inside of the inlet and shake the stuff around in the block so it coats everything well and to make sure there is no trapped air. Drain the sealer out after a few minutes and let it dry overnight. Be sure to get the plate or the head off of the block surface before it dries and wipe everything down well.




I think the company actually recommends circulating the stuff but I never have. I guess you could reapply the sealer again after the engine is running if you felt you needed to have extra insurance.

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by Benson

It seems to me that the use of antifreeze in the cooling system for the last 88 years by previous owners and not water might have prevented this problem.


Or at least slowed down the rusting process.



Just thinking out loud.

You are correct except we do not always have the option of choosing a block that was never rusted.


We have to deal with what we have.


Chris W.

[Richard in Anaheim CA]

I would think since it is a bare block with a fresh sleeve job, the one who installed the sleeve could remove it and install a new one with appropriate sealer over 100% of the sleeve. Step 2 .do the block seal procedure for insurance

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Richard in Anaheim CA

I would think since it is a bare block with a fresh sleeve job, the one who installed the sleeve could remove it and install a new one with appropriate sealer over 100% of the sleeve. Step 2 .do the block seal procedure for insurance

There are different schools of thought on this but I use heat on the block to expand the bore and I chill the sleeves to get a drop-in fit. Most sealers will not like the temps on the block and it will make the sealer congeal during the installation. Others use a press to install but the bore is so tight that it will scrape-off the sealer as the sleeve is pressed in. A lot of engines have casting porosity and are cured with sloshed sealers.