Anyone tried putting timing marks on a flattie?

[66miles]

This will either sound completely out of left field, or someone will say "why didn't anyone think of this before". I've been getting a little too obsessed lately about the state of my crab distibutor, and what I can do with this thing to help the old gal be "the best she can be". As a guy who is relatively new to early V8's but who has done plenty with later 8's n 6's, I still wonder why Henry never got around to putting timing marks on the front pully and timing cover. Can't be very hard to mark both with no1 TDC and add a few degree graduations either side, then go from there with a standard timing light like everyone else does. Is this crazy or am I missing something (again)!

[35fordtn]

I did it to my "driver" car 1937 with a 59AB.. The hardest part is finding TDC with the heads on

[Jack E/NJ]

Yup, I did mine with white paint on a cam cover head bolt and a white paint mark on the crank pulley when Ford #5 was at TDC. Just wanted to make sure the strobe worked the same way as I've always done it on my xler and gm motors. 8^)

Jack E/NJ

[66miles]

Thank the Lord guys! I can't believe it. This is a revelation (to me anyway). I know there are plenty of guys out there who have the tools and the know-how to set up an early distributor "just so", and I mean NO disrespect at all to any of them. in fact I admire their expertise. But as a "new" guy who can use a timing light but little else, this could be a game-changer for me. Obviously I gotta lift a head to see #1 at TDC, but I was planning on lifting the heads soon anyway.

[RKS.PA]

I did this too, on my 59 AB with a crab distributor. I made a pointer to attach to the cam cover and then put a notch in the pulley with white paint to highlight it so that the strobe of my timing light could pick it up with my old eyes and the six volts I'm running. Very worthwhile upgrade!!

Dick.

[66miles]

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Absolutely brilliant Dick! I'll be getting into doing something like this VERY soon. It's gotta help make things easier for guys like us with all the enthusiasm and none of the tools!

[Karl Wolf]

I replaced one of the bolts from the timing cover on 59AB with a sharpened a stud and put a nut on it, found TDC and cut a notch in the pulley. This was done at assembly, making it relatively easy...
I use a degree adjustable timing light.

Karl

[66miles]

This is starting to sound like a better n better idea. Keep it coming!

[Ol' Ron]

Using the Bruce Lancaster method is the easiest. Using a large tie rap, fish it into the #1 cyl through the spark plug hole. rotate engine in one direction until it hits the head and mark the pulley, Rotate in oppsite direction and mark pulley. TDC is in the middle of the two marks. Place a pointer in this location. now measure the diameter of the pulley and devide by 360. This gives the dimention of each degree. mark off 20 degrees and make another mark. mark off another 5 degrees and you'll have everything you need fo tuning the ignition.

[66miles]

Ron! This stuff might be as easy as apple pie to you. But believe me my friend. Those few lines ya just came back with have lifted a weight off my shoulders. I'd be tempted to start on it right now, but it's gettin a little close to supper!

[hotcoupe]

this is my version, the red mark is T.D.C., the closest white mark is 4 degrees and the furthest white mark is 22 degrees.
tom

[Scott H]

So to go along with this thread, once you have the marks set (which I could also do with a cam degree wheel I have),
someone please show or explain where you adjust the timing, so its all inclusive in this thread.

[deuce_roadster]

I did the same thing as Karl Wolf. Made a pointed stud for the bottom passenger side timing cover bolt. Had the heads off, so TDC was easy. Measured the circumference of the pulley, did some math and figured where to place other notches.

[66miles]

Seems a few guys have had this same idea before. It's like how to drag Henry into the modern era without having to do much except file a mark on the front pulley! PS: Thanks for the pics hotcoupe!

[Mart]

Here's how I did it recently, the same method I used on another engine about 10 years ago. The bent wire pointer is surprisingly easy to relocate if removed and refitted.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123411

Mart.

[flatmotor40]

Do you adjust timing with engine running on the crab style or just set it and crank it till it cranks fine and bolt it down and go riding

[Heard]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Using the Bruce Lancaster method is the easiest. Using a large tie rap, fish it into the #1 cyl through the spark plug hole. rotate engine in one direction until it hits the head and mark the pulley, Rotate in oppsite direction and mark pulley. TDC is in the middle of the two marks. Place a pointer in this location. now measure the diameter of the pulley and devide by 360. This gives the dimention of each degree. mark off 20 degrees and make another mark. mark off another 5 degrees and you'll have everything you need fo tuning the ignition.

Hey Ron...excuse my ignorance but I want to make sure I'm reading this correctly. With the tie rap in there, are you saying the piston will come up and stop due to the thickness of the tie rap?

[Pete]

Most of the engines I build get dampers so I just buy timing tape and stick it on.
If you only have a pulley, it is easy to mark it with some quick math, a set of dividers and a file.
Bruce's tie wrap method is probably the easiest method of locating top center of an assembled engine.

[Karl Wolf]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Using the Bruce Lancaster method is the easiest. Using a large tie rap, fish it into the #1 cyl through the spark plug hole. rotate engine in one direction until it hits the head and mark the pulley, Rotate in oppsite direction and mark pulley. TDC is in the middle of the two marks. Place a pointer in this location. now measure the diameter of the pulley and devide by 360. This gives the dimention of each degree. mark off 20 degrees and make another mark. mark off another 5 degrees and you'll have everything you need fo tuning the ignition.

Uh, measure diameter of pulley- MULTIPLY by 3.14 (Pi.), divide by 360- that will give a measurement to use to mark degrees on pulley...

Karl

[FlatheadTed]

[Q66 No harm in experimenting ,I did this my self some time ago,its a good way of tracking how the advance weights are going .You can also use a 18 mm plumber fitting and a clear plastic tub and water or TMF .You would set the right points say to 13" then move the advance up or down ,as the light is flashing .As a back up if 66 has a spare dizy send it to me and can set it up at no charge .

QUOTE=Scott H;809311]So to go along with this thread, once you have the marks set (which I could also do with a cam degree wheel I have),
someone please show or explain where you adjust the timing, so its all inclusive in this thread.[/QUOTE]

[66miles]

Appreciate the offer Ted. Next time I'm near you I'll drop by for a chat!

[Ol' Ron]

Depending on what's in the engine, stock or modified. I like to have the mechanical advance go to 20 degs BTDC at @2000RPN. This is a good starting point. Next set the vacuum advance to 8 degrees, for cruise. Again this is just a starting point.
Those of you using the original pre 49 distributors will have to live with the built in advance and tere's not much you can do about it. You can however grind the advance slots but you can't change the springe pressure on the weights. The trick is to get the vacuum plunger set right??? I plan to putz with this when I have time.

[29AVEE8]

Gentlemen.

In the photo examples of both "hotcoupe" and the thread linked by "Mart" the pointers have been installed on the passenger side of the engine. Is there some advantage to the passenger side as opposed to the drivers side?

Thanks.

[66miles]

I'm gonna take a guess here at the risk of lookin like a dumbie. Does the marker position on the timing cover just depend on which cylinder you have chosen to take TDC from. You would then have to remember to connect your timing light to the same cylinder.

[Bolts]

Originally Posted by Heard

Hey Ron...excuse my ignorance but I want to make sure I'm reading this correctly. With the tie rap in there, are you saying the piston will come up and stop due to the thickness of the tie rap?

Heard, I think the purpose of the large tie wrap is just to find top dead center. By rotating the crank until you get where you THINK #1 is TDC, and marking the pulley, then reversing the rotation until you THINK you're at the top and marking the pulley, the gap between the marks on the pulley divided in half is pretty close to actual TDC on the piston.

[FlatheadTed]

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Yes that's correct ,usually no one, first front left facing the radiator.

Originally Posted by 66miles

I'm gonna take a guess here at the risk of lookin like a dumbie. Does the marker position on the timing cover just depend on which cylinder you have chosen to take TDC from. You would then have to remember to connect your timing light to the same cylinder.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Hoop,

Good reply. Everyone needs to study the system and how it operates , very few do but the need is these for sure...

[BrianCT]

Originally Posted by Heard

Hey Ron...excuse my ignorance but I want to make sure I'm reading this correctly. With the tie rap in there, are you saying the piston will come up and stop due to the thickness of the tie rap?

This may have been obvious to some. but I just realised that it was not
specified to insert the head of a fairly large tie wrap to stop the piston.

[hardtimes]

Hey Hoop,
You got a chuckle of out me this beautiful morning in lalaland..lol
Hm, wonder if any will try to 'swallow' the crab/helmet to see if knowledge is absorbed

[Matt in Alameda]

I think he means.....with the tie wrap in through the spark plug hole,pushed in to be over the piston,.. You will see it move when the piston comes up....or if you are holding it you will feel the piston come up. Matt in alameda

[Heard]

Oh, I see. Thanks Matt.

[Mart]

I put a crab dist on my 33 and the old 21stud had a timing mark on it, put on by me years ago. I was using my snap on timing light and I realised the advance just wasn't right. I stripped the dissy and found that I had managed to get the bob weight springs on the wrong side of the shaft.
All was well once I had put it all back together properly.

Having a timing mark is certainly very useful, especially if you have a decent timing light where you can dial in to read the advance while only having a tdc mark.

Mart.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I thought this was a good informative post and something I plan to do on my driver.

[Mr 42]

Im drilling a 3mm hole in one of the bolts, silversolder in a bit of the drill in the bolt.

Use the methods named above to find TDC, and cut some slots in the pully.

Works all the time.

[66miles]

I remember one of my old '60s something fords once had a small degree scale on the timing cover along with the usual #1TDC mark. It only had the one timing mark on the pulley. Seemed to work great. Would this be a good idea on a flattie?