32-37 ignition switches(thanks Brendan)

[Willit Stop]

I had a little problem with starting the 36.It seems that it would only fire as soon as I released the starter switch.After a few PM's with Brendan, I hooked up a circuit tester between the switch side of the coil and ground,flipped on the switch and jiggled it.The test light would dim intermittently as I jiggled the switch.I removed the switch,cleaned the contacts and now it works as it should.If any of you have a similar problem,you might want to check your switch.

[Brendan]

Thanks!

[G.M.]

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Originally Posted by Willit Stop

I had a little problem with starting the 36.It seems that it would only fire as soon as I released the starter switch.After a few PM's with Brendan, I hooked up a circuit tester between the switch side of the coil and ground,flipped on the switch and jiggled it.The test light would dim intermittently as I jiggled the switch.I removed the switch,cleaned the contacts and now it works as it should.If any of you have a similar problem,you might want to check your switch.

The switch is a larger problem then most people think as you found out. The threaded terminal screws have flat rivet like heads on the other ends that are molded into the plastic. The plastic and the flat brass heads are mill flat using a fly cutter that doesn't make a smooth surface but leaves peaks and valleys. The top half of the switch that moves by the ON/Off handle has small round contact surfaces that wipe across the plastic and on to the brass contacts turning on the coil, gauges and other electrical components. The current is to high for the small contact areas, arcs and drags the arc out across the plastic burning the plastic and putting deep gouges in the flat brass contact surfaces. What I do is put 320 sand paper on a VERY flat surface, hold the paper firm and work the flat surface of the plastic and brass over the paper until all of the depression marks are gone. Now you will still have small ridges and groves from the 320. Using
finer paper repeat the sanding process down to 1,500 paper so you have a smooth surface like a set of point or relay contacts. Next take the triangle shaped ball contact and with a very small screw driver bend the ball contacts up from the plastic about .025 being carful not to loose the small springs under them. This will put the contact pressure back after sanding. Now using the same method with ONLY the 1,500 paper and all balls touching the paper sand the ends of the balls until you have flat contact spots about .100 or less across the flats. Don't go to deep or you could go through the material. Now you will have good contact area that will carry the current across the contacts and I doubt will ever become a future problem. G.M.