The Ford Barn

ndnchf · 11-19-2023, 05:16 PM

Congrats - very nice car. Defintely keep it as Henry built it. A properly rebuilt distributor is very reliable. I have a '35 Fordor, great fun.

ndnchf · 11-19-2023, 05:48 PM

Agree with the others. Keep it stock. A properly rebuilt distributor with Skip's rebuilt coil will be dead nuts reliable. '35s are very cool. I have a nice '35 Fordor, so maybe I'm biased 😉

tubman · 11-19-2023, 05:57 PM

Very nice car. My first old Ford (in 1959) was also a "flatback" tudor, except mine was a '36 DeLuxe.

I agree with the rest about preserving it stock, and will go so far as to say that you should replace the carb setup with a proper Stromberg 97 and an original air cleaner.

TNTim · 11-19-2023, 06:57 PM

The mods that I know of are the following.

40’s hydraulic brakes (floor cut)
Coil and distributor.
59 Carb
Added water temp and oil pressure gauge.
Moved starter button from floor to dash.
Distributor switch ??

Another question. Previous owner has added a switch to provide power directly to the “-“ post of the coil. When I got the car, that wire at the distributor was disconnected. Why would you put this wire on the same side that goes to the distributor? Isn’t that bypassing the resistance in the coil?

Also has the battery been relocated from original?

ndnchf · 11-19-2023, 07:05 PM

The battery should be under the drivers floor. But was moved to make room for the hydraulic master cylinder.

TNTim · 11-19-2023, 07:13 PM

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I completely understand everybody’s feeling about keeping it original. I have no plans to do any extreme modifications. I’m not touching the interior or really the exterior for that matter.

What I considered was some way to slightly lower the car and maybe bolt on engine modifications.

Not doing anything major now. I want to get it running and enjoy as is for awhile.

Here is an example of a friends and the inspiration to buy one.

petehoovie · 11-19-2023, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TNTim

The mods that I know of are the following.

40’s hydraulic brakes (floor cut)
Coil and distributor.
59 Carb
Added water temp and oil pressure gauge.
Moved starter button from floor to dash.
Distributor switch ??

Another question. Previous owner has added a switch to provide power directly to the “-“ post of the coil. When I got the car, that wire at the distributor was disconnected. Why would you put this wire on the same side that goes to the distributor? Isn’t that bypassing the resistance in the coil?

Also has the battery been relocated from original?

petehoovie · 11-19-2023, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TNTim

What I considered was some way to slightly lower the car and maybe bolt on engine modifications.

Here is an example of a friends and the inspiration to buy one.

DavidG · 11-19-2023, 08:25 PM

Nice car, but beware of that hot air manifold heater, short of having a portable carbon monoxide gauge, there is no way of telling if there are no leaks internally that would permit CO to enter the passenger compartment. I'd remove it and have its integrity thoroughly checked.

ssffnomad · 11-20-2023, 08:40 AM

Like most it’s age .
Probably needs a new wiring harness.
You can get a nice original looking Cloth Harness from Bauer Electric in Bend Oregon.
Stretch

Model51 · 11-20-2023, 08:54 AM

TNTim,
Great car! Congratulations on getting a great original example.

You are very lucky to live reasonably close to ThirdGen located in McMinnville, TN. It's a small family-owned business, so be patient if you call as they get super busy.

I also suggest that purchase the 1935-1936 Ford Car book from the Early Ford V8 Club of America. It's a wealth of information and might help you figure out a few things.

I'll jump on the bandwagon of those encouraging you to keep things as original as possible. The helmet coil distributor and 6 volts iginition system works just fine as long as you go through all of the parts. I suspect that after 20 years of not running, your starting issue might be the fuel system, but just a guess.

Keep posting your progress and questions. There are lot's of folks here willing to help.

Seth Swoboda · 11-20-2023, 09:48 AM

That is one hell of a nice car! That's a car you can have a lot of fun in. If it were mine, I'd already have 100 miles on it.

A few folks here got it right.

Clean the points with some emery and try starting it again.

Contact Michael Driskell at 3rd Gen in McMinnville for the distributor service. You will not regret it. He can also rebuild your fuel pump.

I'd go back to using the stock coil. Those adapters and goofy looking.

One other suggestion. I'd get rid of the modern gauges. Go back with the stock Ford Gauges. Also, find and original air cleaner. It'll make your car look even better.

Lastly, join the Early Ford V8 Club and bring the beauty to a National Meet. You'll have a blast.

Oh and drive this car!.

35fordtn · 11-20-2023, 02:27 PM

Thats a killer car. I see it's already had a 37 steering box installed. It should drive nicely once you get the bugs worked out

Brian · 11-20-2023, 03:46 PM

Yes indeed, nice vehicle. The engine block is actually a 37-38 version of the 21 stud engine, albiet equipped with the earlier style heads. this is a great combination! Enjoy your car, 35's are great- I've owned and enjoyed mine since 1971.

TNTim · 11-20-2023, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Thats a killer car. I see it's already had a 37 steering box installed. It should drive nicely once you get the bugs worked out

I’ll be contacting you for some needed items. Glad to know someone is somewhat close.

terry · 11-21-2023, 10:29 AM

Someone help me out with that heating system. Is the black pipe on pass side just getting heat from the radiator then bringing it to passenger floor? There is a knob to left of the glove cpt that manually opens a round heater port on passenger side? It can't be all that effecient unless there is a port on driver side as well. Very nice 35 you have there! terry

cas3 · 11-21-2023, 11:12 AM

Not good photos of the heater, but it seems to be a hot air system that is usually a tin cover around the exhaust manifold, and the pipe up to the radiator is just using the fan to push air thru the system. As noted by David G, they can rust out and leak exhaust in with the hot air.

TNTim · 12-10-2023, 01:06 AM

Update:

I got very lucky and found a local guy Jim (JimTN). He is a super nice guy and a lifetime of knowledge. We figured out I had a weak spark going to the Distributor. Discovered the adapter on top of the distributor was not making a connection at the 6V terminal. Was able to get an original style coil from him. Cleaned up the points and installed. Immediately fired up!

Drove it around a little today and it ran great. Weeping water I think from a water pulley maybe not sure.

Turned it off and now wont start back. Checked voltage at the coil and only have 2.6 V. Possibly that resistor under the dash is going bad?

38 coupe · 12-10-2023, 07:24 AM

Check voltage at each connection between the battery and the coil. The only significant drop should be through the resistor. Voltage drop through the resistor varies with engine speed, more drop when the engine is running slower, less drop when the engine is running faster and needs a hotter ignition.

38convsedan · 12-10-2023, 10:21 AM

Second the motion on sending distributor to Charlie in NY.
While you’re at it, I would also send him your carb and fuel pump.
He will completely rebuild them, and even run your rebuilt carb on his test engine for fine tuning. You will eliminate three areas of concern with his fine work.
He’s done these things for me—and my car runs great!

11-19-2023, 05:16 PM	#21
ndnchf Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia Posts: 765	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Congrats - very nice car. Defintely keep it as Henry built it. A properly rebuilt distributor is very reliable. I have a '35 Fordor, great fun.

11-19-2023, 05:48 PM	#22
ndnchf Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia Posts: 765	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Agree with the others. Keep it stock. A properly rebuilt distributor with Skip's rebuilt coil will be dead nuts reliable. '35s are very cool. I have a nice '35 Fordor, so maybe I'm biased 😉

11-19-2023, 05:57 PM	#23
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,320	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Very nice car. My first old Ford (in 1959) was also a "flatback" tudor, except mine was a '36 DeLuxe. I agree with the rest about preserving it stock, and will go so far as to say that you should replace the carb setup with a proper Stromberg 97 and an original air cleaner.

11-19-2023, 07:05 PM	#25
ndnchf Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia Posts: 765	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard The battery should be under the drivers floor. But was moved to make room for the hydraulic master cylinder.

11-19-2023, 08:25 PM	#29
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,102	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Nice car, but beware of that hot air manifold heater, short of having a portable carbon monoxide gauge, there is no way of telling if there are no leaks internally that would permit CO to enter the passenger compartment. I'd remove it and have its integrity thoroughly checked.

11-20-2023, 08:40 AM	#30
ssffnomad Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2021 Location: Upstate N.Y. Posts: 443	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Like most it’s age . Probably needs a new wiring harness. You can get a nice original looking Cloth Harness from Bauer Electric in Bend Oregon. Stretch

11-20-2023, 08:54 AM	#31
Model51 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fairfax Station, VA Posts: 529	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard TNTim, Great car! Congratulations on getting a great original example. You are very lucky to live reasonably close to ThirdGen located in McMinnville, TN. It's a small family-owned business, so be patient if you call as they get super busy. I also suggest that purchase the 1935-1936 Ford Car book from the Early Ford V8 Club of America. It's a wealth of information and might help you figure out a few things. I'll jump on the bandwagon of those encouraging you to keep things as original as possible. The helmet coil distributor and 6 volts iginition system works just fine as long as you go through all of the parts. I suspect that after 20 years of not running, your starting issue might be the fuel system, but just a guess. Keep posting your progress and questions. There are lot's of folks here willing to help. __________________ 1935 157" 1 1/2 ton stake truck undergoing full original restoration 1936 131 1/2" panel truck rescue preservation Author of the 1935-1936 Ford Model 51 V8 Truck book published by the Early Ford V8 Club of America

11-20-2023, 09:48 AM	#32
Seth Swoboda Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 3,795	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard That is one hell of a nice car! That's a car you can have a lot of fun in. If it were mine, I'd already have 100 miles on it. A few folks here got it right. Clean the points with some emery and try starting it again. Contact Michael Driskell at 3rd Gen in McMinnville for the distributor service. You will not regret it. He can also rebuild your fuel pump. I'd go back to using the stock coil. Those adapters and goofy looking. One other suggestion. I'd get rid of the modern gauges. Go back with the stock Ford Gauges. Also, find and original air cleaner. It'll make your car look even better. Lastly, join the Early Ford V8 Club and bring the beauty to a National Meet. You'll have a blast. Oh and drive this car!.

11-20-2023, 02:27 PM	#33
35fordtn Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: McMinnville, TN Posts: 2,327	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Thats a killer car. I see it's already had a 37 steering box installed. It should drive nicely once you get the bugs worked out

11-20-2023, 03:46 PM	#34
Brian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Masterton, New Zealand Posts: 3,834	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Yes indeed, nice vehicle. The engine block is actually a 37-38 version of the 21 stud engine, albiet equipped with the earlier style heads. this is a great combination! Enjoy your car, 35's are great- I've owned and enjoyed mine since 1971. __________________ Unfortunately, two half wits don't make a whole wit!

11-21-2023, 10:29 AM	#36
terry Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 267	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Someone help me out with that heating system. Is the black pipe on pass side just getting heat from the radiator then bringing it to passenger floor? There is a knob to left of the glove cpt that manually opens a round heater port on passenger side? It can't be all that effecient unless there is a port on driver side as well. Very nice 35 you have there! terry

11-21-2023, 11:12 AM	#37
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,578	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Not good photos of the heater, but it seems to be a hot air system that is usually a tin cover around the exhaust manifold, and the pipe up to the radiator is just using the fan to push air thru the system. As noted by David G, they can rust out and leak exhaust in with the hot air.

12-10-2023, 01:06 AM	#38
TNTim Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2023 Location: Knoxville, TN Posts: 19	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Update: I got very lucky and found a local guy Jim (JimTN). He is a super nice guy and a lifetime of knowledge. We figured out I had a weak spark going to the Distributor. Discovered the adapter on top of the distributor was not making a connection at the 6V terminal. Was able to get an original style coil from him. Cleaned up the points and installed. Immediately fired up! Drove it around a little today and it ran great. Weeping water I think from a water pulley maybe not sure. Turned it off and now wont start back. Checked voltage at the coil and only have 2.6 V. Possibly that resistor under the dash is going bad?

12-10-2023, 07:24 AM	#39
38 coupe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Texas Posts: 1,631	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Check voltage at each connection between the battery and the coil. The only significant drop should be through the resistor. Voltage drop through the resistor varies with engine speed, more drop when the engine is running slower, less drop when the engine is running faster and needs a hotter ignition.

12-10-2023, 10:21 AM	#40
38convsedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2022 Location: Lakeland Florida Posts: 377	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Second the motion on sending distributor to Charlie in NY. While you’re at it, I would also send him your carb and fuel pump. He will completely rebuild them, and even run your rebuilt carb on his test engine for fine tuning. You will eliminate three areas of concern with his fine work. He’s done these things for me—and my car runs great!