Can I salvage these axle threads on 47 sedan

[Bob C]

Also the axle and hub taper need to be squeaky clean, no oil or grease.

[big job]

sorry to say for a proper repair the axle should be removed, put in a lathe then the taper may be measured & the existing threads will be measured maybe a whisker under size perhaps metric then double nut it like full floating big truck axles. But then as many have said to replace it, Unless its the only axle on the planet. Then I tend to think the cause likely may have been the taper in the drum walking back & forth little by little until the nut sheared the axle threads ?

[Old Henry]

I will definitely lap the taper on both wheels. I had done that previously on the right wheel that just came off but I didn't do it on the new left axle I put on a few months ago.

[Old Henry]

What is the hub puller that starts with a K to pull the hubs off of this 47 sedan? I've been using one from Auto Zone but want a better one.

[glennpm]

KR Wilson

I bought one of the below and notice the price has gone up a lot but it works very well.

https://vintageprecision.com/product...ers/index.html

Good pictures of the same tool here:

https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/KRWhubpuller.htm

[petehoovie]

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Originally Posted by glennpm

KR Wilson

I bought one of the below and notice the price has gone up a lot but it works very well.

https://vintageprecision.com/product...ers/index.html

Good pictures of the same tool here:

https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/KRWhubpuller.htm

[47topless]

Most of the parts stores are really good about lending these sorts of tools to their good customers.

[drolston]

It is a horrible job. When I was a hot rodder in high school and busting axles and drive shafts on a regular basis, I could do it in an afternoon. Last year it took me two weeks. Regardless of which route you choose, for safety, please install drum retainers. Cheap easy.


With that bit of insurance I would try this to avoid the rear end tear down:
Start by lapping the hub to the shaft. Use a new shaft key but de-burr it first and make sure it seats completely in the slot.



I think you have enough thread there to try the Third Gen nut. Call them and ask for the proper way to use it. How tight do you go with the inner nut before you start clamping with the outer nut? Do you do them sequentially? Etc. Chase the threads only if the inner nut does not go on easily. If you can get over 175 ft-lb on it, call it a win.

[Bored&Stroked]

Here is the hub puller that I have - used it many times:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/183765904026

At $85, I think it is a very fair price! Also, it doesn't rotate on the end of the axle (which can cause issues if you don't use a nut).

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Here is the hub puller that I have - used it many times:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/183765904026

At $85, I think it is a very fair price! Also, it doesn't rotate on the end of the axle (which can cause issues if you don't use a nut).

[Newc]

Is there a Metric option for rethreading those damaged threads? Newc

[deuce_roadster]

Please get someone to remove that axle for you and get a replacement with good threads that has been magged and checked with dye penetrant. Because that axle was run for who knows how long with a loose nut, the odds of a crack being at the inner end of the axle keyway is quite high. When you replaced the other axle, you had that hub off and I suspect the final torque was not up to specs with a cotter pin installed.
When tightening the axle nuts (do both sides at same time) on nice clean dry tapers, tighten them up to say 100 lbs, (leave cotter pin out) drive around the block torque it back to 100 lbs, drive around again check if it less then 100, keep doing this until it stays, then take it up to 150, drive around and if it hasn't changed, take it up to 195, install the nut and cotter and you have it done on both sides and it won't change. This can only be done and have a safe car with good axles with good threads. You are moving the hub onto the taper until it no longer can be moved.
Usually, when the wheel comes off, the last 5 or so inches of the axle with nut and cotter pin are with it. And if you are VERY lucky, there was no accident or bad damage to the car. This is a very serious saftey issue, please take it seriously.

[FlatheadTed]

Considering the miles you do change is advisable ,you could remove one end of the spring and bell and draw out the the crown wheel on the left side, make sure the gasket measures the same and replace it ,do this with the drive shaft still attached to the gear box . Ted

[mcflash]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Description

This is a NEW special nut designed for 1928-48 Fords with worn rear axle threads. Replacement axles are hard to find and very expensive not to mention the extensive labor to replace one. Many times axles have to be replaced due to worn threads on the hub end. This nut is a standard 5/8-18 internal threads but has special tapered outer thread. when the clamping nut is tightened to the main nut it closes the threads allowing it to “grab” onto your worn threads. We recomend use of Loc-Tite on the clamping outer nut. PLEASE NOTE this is not meant for stripped out threads, or threads that are completely stripped off.

If it was mine, I'd at least try this solution. Your axle threads don't look "stripped" so much as worn.

[GB SISSON]

Just a note on the safety issue that has been brought up today and the real possibility of your being seriously injured or killed if you should lose a tire/wheel/drum at speed. Four years ago this month I was heading back to the island on a divided state road, grass median with heavy traffic at dusk, both sides traveling at 55-60. I was driving my '92 F350 with a full legal load of 12' timbers. With no warning, both left side duals left the truck and crossed the median into oncoming traffic. I could only concentrate on keeping control of the truck and had no idea where the 75 lb wheels ended up. My brake drum exploded on the pavement and the groove from the axle flange remains today. I ended up in the median and could see a car with it's flashers on 1/8 mile or so behind me on other side. Took 20 minutes for state trooper to arrive. There were other cars stopped back there now with their flashers on too. I had NO idea what was going on over there. It seemed like an eternity. All I could think about was the weight and the 100 mph+ impact and what was the nature of the commotion over there? I was finally told that the wheel (wheels?) had taken out the front fender, bumper and headlamps of a young woman heading home from work. She was quite shaken up, but not injured. My insurance covered, the trooper commended me on my using 5 straps on the load, no ticket. Tires had been mounted by a large West coast chain six months prior. Yes, this may be off topic, but we need to think about the other guy, or family or whoever ends up with our wheel if it parts ways with our vehicle. Rest assured the replacement wheels are double nutted and have paint pen marks at the tops.