New Kid Needs Front Spring Advice for His M31

[tnt9848]

I have been following the forum in the shadows for quite a while now. I owned a 28 CCPU about 20 years ago, but regretfully sold it after a couple of years .(I remember snippets of the conversation with my wife "kids, college tuition, mortgage, yada yada,..."). 3 months ago, I purchased a M31 Roadster. I use the term M31 because it turns out to be "Mostly" 31.

I have been doing some Winter time projects on the car (installing a fuse, master cut off switch, seatbelts [I know the politics of the seatbelt issue and decided to install them], dropped the oil pan and scraped out 3/8" of crud, changed all the fluids, installed a new water pump, replaced the fan, turn signals using the cowl and rear lights.....etc.)

I discovered a serious safety issue with the front spring. It has 11 leaves (I've counted them several times) not 10. The U-bolts and crank guide are square 28/29's. The castellated nuts are barely threaded on, with no hope of using cotter pins. Pics attached.

The spring shackles are 1/4"+ off of the axle.

Obviously the new kid needs to do something.

Les Andrews, in his book, states that the front spring can easily be removed without a spreader. True/False

Remove the top leaf and try for a better fit? It looks like the removal of one leaf still wouldn't allow the spring bottom clip bar to nest in the cross frame. What should I order if I go this route.

Order a new front spring from? (I need your advice here). What else should I order if I go this route.

I don't think it is an issue with the square U-bolts vs. round, although I will change over to the correct U bolts for a 31.


Thanks for you help and advice in advance.

(The kids did go to college and the mortgage is paid off.)

[Kevin in NJ]

The nuts are incorrect.

The originals were a 7/8" hex and would be hard, as in file would not make marks.
There should not be lock washers only cotter pins. What you have there might not be safe.

The U bolts were prone to stretching. When buying U bolts, should you decide to, look for uniform thread spacing. Some are stretched and the threads are a bit wider in those areas. This is very common and very pronounced as I passed on many U bolts at the flea market till I found a nice pair.

I strongly suggest that you use only original U bolts and nuts. Do not attempt to chase the threads with tap or die. Ford used tighter tolerence threading in many areas and this is one of them. As a general rule hand clean threads with wire wheels and right angle picks. Do not use a tap an die on any of the A nuts and bolts unless you know for sure they are not tighter tolerance.

One guage for spring height is the axle position relative to the front splash apron. Bumper height has too many variables.
Get even with the front of the axle. You should be able to see about half the axle peeking out from behind the splash apron. This is based on what I have seen in factory photos. It is not a perfect gauge, but I believe it is less prone to error.
You also need to look at the relative position of the shackles. They push out as the spring gets weaker.

Your spring, if it is good (I would question that), would need a good tear down and lubrication. Then you will have a problem if you do not have working shocks as a good working spring and no shocks can make for a difficult to drive above 25 MPH car.

In reality I would feel safe in making a broad comment that your car needs to have the full front axle removed and rebuilt from scratch for safety. The mix of nuts holding it on is a good indication that everything is suspect of being improperly assembled.

Yes, I am implying you are opening a can of worms. This is what it takes to make a safe car that is a pleasure to drive.

[Steve Plucker]

Take Kevin's advice... also join up with a Model A Ford club in your area if you have not already...Right now that is part of the problem also.

Pluck

[pgerhardt]

Let me just add a request for all new members to include their location in their profile. "TNT" could be in my town and I would enjoy helping him out, but I would never know from his info.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Tnt9848, I see it says you are in SE Michigan. How far are you from Monroe?

[Gunmetal blue2]

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tnt9848 I live in northern Indiana were at in Michigan do you live? E-mail me at [email protected] or 574-221-1475

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by tnt9848

I have been following the forum in the shadows for quite a while now. Congratulations on your new acquisition!

Les Andrews, in his book, states that the front spring can easily be removed without a spreader. True/False Easily is a matter of opinion, but yes it can be done.

Remove the top leaf and try for a better fit? It looks like the removal of one leaf still wouldn't allow the spring bottom clip bar to nest in the cross frame. What should I order if I go this route. The front sprints, as you stated should have 10 leaves, look to see if you have two of the same size leaves and remove one.


Order a new front spring from? (I need your advice here). What else should I order if I go this route. If you decide to http://www.a-springs.com/products.html
or any Model A vendor close to you to save on shipping
I don't think it is an issue with the square U-bolts vs. round, although I will change over to the correct U bolts for a 31.


Thanks for you help and advice in advance.

(The kids did go to college and the mortgage is paid off.)

Kevins post is the way to go!

[RonC]

I believe theses are the best springs on the market if you decide to replace.
http://www.a-springs.com