PCV valve for my H six ?

[GB SISSON]

Good morning all. I have been doing a lot of work on my '46 tonner with the 226 H engine. I'm getting to where I can shift the T-9 with minimal gnashing of teeth after a few years without a crash box tranny. Last week I was dealing with fuel plumbing after installing a correct mechanical fuel pump with an electric 'primer'. Then it was going through my box of dash instruments and senders. Great success with my finds and that new speedometer cable. Still need a fuel tank sender. The H has between 120 and 130 compression on all cylinders and oil pressure in the 30s, but has a noticeable amount of stinky blowby entering the cab. I have read a LOT of PCV threads here on the barn and I see where many people have strong opinions on the subject, but the vast majority agree that it's good for reducing or eliminating blow by fumes. Today I'm hoping to find a suitable pcv at napa and adapt it with a home made kit.
My plan is to use one of the two 3/8"ports that are in the intake manifold below the carb. From there across the head to the oil breather stand pipe, eliminating the vented cap. I will make a rubber plug with a hole in it to mount the pcv valve vertically. Connect with 3/8" hose. The incoming air will be through the road draft tube under the manifolds and connected to the valve chamber. This tube, without measuring is 1 1/8"- 1 1/4". A couple thoughts to eliminate sucking in my very dusty unpaved road include stuffing the tube with an oil soaked stainless brillo pad, installing an aftermarket air cleaner from a small dirt bike or using an oil bath air cleaner from an old 3 hp briggs and stratton engine. For the latter two I would clamp a suitable rubber hose onto the draft tube and curl it upwards before mounting the air cleaner. The dirt bike dry element I think would mount to the side of the T-9 using the parking brake holes. The oil bath maybe on the inner fender just to confuse people. With winter approaching I should be working on plumbing under my house that often freezes, or perhaps more roof patching, but that just doesn't do it for me. I offer suggestions on my routing and filtering. Thanks.

ps. I have a friend that says of me... One thing we won't see on Gary's headstone is "He was a man of few words"

[38 coupe]

Hi Gary,
Ford put a decent amount of thought into the crankcase ventilation systems on the 8BA era V8s and the H series 6s. I would try to keep the air flow in the same direction that Ford designed.

I would retain the stock air intake location and simply plumb the PCV from the road draft tube. The draft tube is held onto the valve cover with a long bolt. Depending on the exact style you can take the whole tube off, or take the bottom of the tube off and pull PCV from there.

[51504bat]

Not sure on a straight 6 but when I made the PCV system for my 8ba I replaced the road draft tube with a rubber grommet that a PCV valve fit in. I then routed a hose from the valve to t threaded port in the intake manifold just below the card. I left the original oil fill/breather cap in place. I used a PCV from a 231 Buick since I was advised to use a PCV from a similar displacement engine.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

Not sure on a straight 6 but when I made the PCV system for my 8ba I replaced the road draft tube with a rubber grommet that a PCV valve fit in. I then routed a hose from the valve to t threaded port in the intake manifold just below the card. I left the original oil fill/breather cap in place. I used a PCV from a 231 Buick since I was advised to use a PCV from a similar displacement engine.

[cadillac512]

Gary, I like your plan for routing. I "reversed" the airflow of my 8CM V8 and installed the pcv in the oil fill/vent standpipe. I removed the road draft tube and used a small motorcycle oiled media filter (K&N)to filter incoming air. My thought was to draw the air into the pcv at a high point where the water vapor and heated crankcase fumes will tend to collect. So far, and 3 years later with 20,000 miles on the engine it has worked perfectly in all seasons with no sign of any condensation or sludge in the engine. No cab fumes either.


Terry

[GB SISSON]

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Thank you all. It looks like this will work either way I decide to plumb it. When I returned home with my parts for the pcv system I parked the foyota and walked up to the truck parked outside in the grass, I noticed a strong smell of gasoline from 10' away. I sealed the tank last year with por 15, paying strict attention to all the steps but last weekend I noticed some leakage from under the seat. I pulled the tank, filled it to the top with water and found no hint of a leak, 100% dry. I decided the leak was in the bottom fitting and running down the line and dripping into and flooding the cab bottom pan. Well, I pulled it again yesterday and plan to pressure test it today. My seat base is in poor condition and has been sagging down to rest on the tank. Last week I put about 1" of dense foam from a camp sleeping mat on top of the tank where the seat rests to further support the sagging seat. That was a poor idea as the tank had now become structural. It is supported only at it's outside ends and with my gravel road in poor condition and rear leaf packs of 14 heavy springs I'm afraid I flexed the seam that runs around the tank. I will know after I put about 5 lbs of air and hit the tank with soapy water. I have 2 other tanks if needed. I will proceed with the pcv project once this more pressing issue is resolved. Arrrrrgh!

[GB SISSON]

With 5 lb pressure I immediately found the culprit. A deep pit all by itself. I found a corresponding pit on the cab floor under the tank. It appears that something like a tool or a nut fell between them years ago. I sanded with 40 grit, drilled a few tiny holes through the pit for tooth, wiped with acetone and covered the area with fuel proof epoxy paste, squeege'd in a 6"x12" piece of fiberglass cloth then another dose of epoxy wetting out the cloth fully. I will drive with a 12 gallon poly outboard tank plumbed into the bed for a week till the epoxy gets fully cured.
I will reinforce the seat frame and perhaps make a 1/2" spacer around the seat frame for added insurance. Ok, I can now proceed with the original topic at hand..... Thank you for your patience!

[GB SISSON]

Here I am again, no pcv valve yet but I have all the parts in hand. My plan is cut off the 1 1/4" dia road draft tube that drops out of the valve chamber. leaving about 6" vertical pipe heading south. I have a 180 degree U shaped bend of 1 1/4" thick walled aluminum tubing and some pieces of 1 1/4" hose for connectors. This will get what was the road draft heading upwards betweeh the carb and the firewall. Into this I will insert a grommet and the toyota six cylinder 90 degree pcv valve I picked up at napa. The gasses will be flowing in Henry's prefered direction and all that will show is the end of the aluminum tube, painted black and the intake will be the original standpipe and cap, far away from the front wheel's road dust. I have 3 Dr appointments on the mainland tomorrow in preperation of an aortic valve replacement which may be as early as the following Tuesday. After that I will get this other valve installed in my truck. Seems there's always something getting in the way of my projects. Sheesh. Edit:

Just added this photo of my 'U' to get the road draft tube heading north. It's from an old hand truck I cut up 5 years ago. Most pcv valves need to mount vertically.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Just added this photo of my 'U' to get the road draft tube heading north. It's from an old hand truck I cut up 5 years ago. Most pcv valves need to mount vertically.

[PeteVS]

My old coupe has a PCV valve horizontally screwed into the base of the carb. I think it's a 3/8" pipe thread and it's connected to a big rubber grommet where the road draft tube existed before PCV. The clean fresh air source for the crankcase comes from a fitting in the base of the air cleaner with a length of tube to the oil filler pipe which has a gasketed cap instead of a breather. For my hot rod, I did everything pretty much the same. I poked a 7/8" hole in the base of the air filter and attached a plastic elbow with a 3/8" hose barb and a 1/2" pipe thread that screws onto an electrical fitting that comes through the hole in the base of the air filter. (I'll see if I can get some pictures.)

[GB SISSON]

Thanks to both Petes. Yes VS, some pics would be good if you can get them.

[PeteVS]

OK. It's been awhile and it's not exactly like I remember.
First pic: Plumbing from old draft tube location to carb. It's 1/4" fittings and there's an elbow due to distributor. Valve is "Standard V100". There's a steel tube from grommet to hose not quite shown.
Second pic: Fitting at base of air filter. There's a 1/2" pipe coupling with barbed fitting at one end.
Third pic: Portion of electrical fitting into other end of coupling.
Fourth pic: Tubing connects to oil filler pipe.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

OK. It's been awhile and it's not exactly like I remember.
First pic: Plumbing from old draft tube location to carb. It's 1/4" fittings and there's an elbow due to distributor. Valve is "Standard V100". There's a steel tube from grommet to hose not quite shown.
Second pic: Fitting at base of air filter. There's a 1/2" pipe coupling with barbed fitting at one end.
Third pic: Portion of electrical fitting into other end of coupling.
Fourth pic: Tubing connects to oil filler pipe.

[Scotty's 52 F3]

You're pretty resourceful Gary, Good luck and prayers for your valve replacement.

[38coop]

I had the TAVR procedure on my Aorta valve on Feb 2022. So far no problems. Good luck on your surgery.

[GB SISSON]

Thank you friends. PeteVS, that's a sanitary installation! My cardiologist told me today he has done over 600 of these valve jobs and it seems to me he's quite confident mine should go well. On the side we have been exchanging info on freeing up his stuck '52 hudson commodore convertible's straight eight flathead. His uncle bought it new and now it's his. He's quite excited about it and he's been working on it in his garage on weekends. From the photos it's a bit shop worn, but certainly a beautiful car. Since I have a sioux valve grinder and 2 seat grinders, maybe I can repay him in kind. But thank God for medicare, because I have a feeling his type of valve job is more spendy than mine. Next two days I'm back in the cabinet shop and that gives me a good weekend to get this pcv thing back on track, and with luck get the real gas tank back in. Since I was on the mainland where auto parts stores are everywhere, I bought a pcv valve for a mopar 3.6 liter V-6 as it's much closer to the displacement of my 226.

[Zeke3]

Prayers and best wishes on your procedure, you can’t go wrong with a Hudson man.

[tubman]

Jeez. You were so casual in mentioning the heart valve problem in passing that I almost missed it. Best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery.

"A valve job for a valve job". I like that.

[PeteVS]

I totally missed the reference to the "valve job"! Best wishes for a good outcome and speedy recovery! My daughter works in the local hospital where they're doing all kinds of that stuff and there are always new procedures coming along. It's a good time to be dealing with that sort of stuff.

[Als48]

Hi Gary, Good luck with your surgery! Is that the real "Doc Hudson"? (Cars movie)
Ha ha.

Al Hook