The Ford Barn

sphooch · 02-25-2019, 09:31 AM

Hi guys , I am replacing my water pump, had to remove the radiator, now that its out what steps should I take to flush it out. On this site I was reading about using Vinegar [white]. I am replacing the fan with a 2 blade all al. fan. the water pump I am replacing with a rebuilt leakless which I purchased from a fine gentleman at Allentown . the problem I see with the fan and pump [ on the bench] is the castle nut does not line up on the shaft in surficent turns to install the cottor pin I think I have to mill down the back side of the castle nut?? Am I on the correct approach here? or are there other suggestions. All the help I get from this site is greatly appreciated . thanks THE HOOCH

1930artdeco · 02-25-2019, 10:13 AM

When I pulled my radiator this is what I did-in the garage. Leave the lower hose and pipe on and attach a hose with one of the brass twist type sprayer heads on the hose to the faucet. Take some PVC pipe about three feet long or so and attach a 90 degree elbow pointed down. Insert it into the lower hose and clamp it off and then put a bucket under the pipe. Turn on the hose and put it into the head where the water pump goes and spray away. You will get the head cleaned out and the 'high' pressure should clean the back of the block out as well. It takes a few buckets and can get a tad messy but the block and head will be cleaned out.

Mike

1931 flamingo · 02-25-2019, 01:56 PM

BEFORE you removed the radiator you should have filled it with the vinegar and run it for a while at full operating temp for a nice loong ride then you could do what the above poster said. Another option would be to fill the system with evaporust for a few days .......JMO
Paul in CT

100IH · 02-25-2019, 02:23 PM

Rust at the rear of the block can easily be piled up 1" deep and somewhat congealed or rusted so the particles form a quasi solid mass. Only way to really remove most of it is with the head off, going through the coolant passages, Old speedo cable works around corners well. Those flakes, however you go about loosening them up will migrate with the coolant and lodge in the radiator when running unless you catch them before they get there ie. upper hose. On th fan, The woodruf key might be sitting too high, might try W/O the key and see if the cotter pin aligns better. Don't over tighten for this try or it will be a btch to get off.

Synchro909 · 02-25-2019, 05:02 PM

Rust in the cooling system is a bit like "What oil do I use?"
To properly clean while the engine is in the car, it is a two step process.
Here's what I do.
First any oiliness must be removed. I do that by going for a decent run (100 miles or so) with a tablet from the dishwasher in the radiator and plain water in the cooling system. Other detergents tend to foam and you don't want that! Once that is done, drain, flush and refill with about a 50-50 mix of vinegar and water. Go for another drive to get it mixed and hot and right through the system. I have just completed this after leaving the vingar in there for a month, driving the car now and then. When the vinegar is drained, the black stuff that comes out will stain anything so be careful. Flush well and refill with your usual coolant (preferably one that resists rust!).
Before I did this, all I could see when I looked intot he top of the radiator was greasy gunk. It is all nice clean brassy coloured now and from experience, Iknow the block is just as clean. Definately no overheating problems now.
When the engine is out and dismantled, the speedo cable trick works well with some compressed air. Even then, I usually follow up with vinegar for a couple of weeks after the engine goes back in.
I'm not saying everybody sould do that - it's just what has worked well for me.

30 Closed Cab PU · 02-25-2019, 09:48 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

All good advice above, make sure to run an upper hose coolant filter so what loosens up what is in the system does not plug up the radiator, If using white vinegar, when done with flush/backflush and before adding the final coolant - run a mix of distilled water and baking soda to neutralize the acidic contents/remnants of the white vinegar.

02-25-2019, 09:31 AM	#1
sphooch Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: New Jersey Posts: 356	Ok te water pump is.... Hi guys , I am replacing my water pump, had to remove the radiator, now that its out what steps should I take to flush it out. On this site I was reading about using Vinegar [white]. I am replacing the fan with a 2 blade all al. fan. the water pump I am replacing with a rebuilt leakless which I purchased from a fine gentleman at Allentown . the problem I see with the fan and pump [ on the bench] is the castle nut does not line up on the shaft in surficent turns to install the cottor pin I think I have to mill down the back side of the castle nut?? Am I on the correct approach here? or are there other suggestions. All the help I get from this site is greatly appreciated . thanks THE HOOCH

02-25-2019, 10:13 AM	#2
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,552	Re: Ok te water pump is.... When I pulled my radiator this is what I did-in the garage. Leave the lower hose and pipe on and attach a hose with one of the brass twist type sprayer heads on the hose to the faucet. Take some PVC pipe about three feet long or so and attach a 90 degree elbow pointed down. Insert it into the lower hose and clamp it off and then put a bucket under the pipe. Turn on the hose and put it into the head where the water pump goes and spray away. You will get the head cleaned out and the 'high' pressure should clean the back of the block out as well. It takes a few buckets and can get a tad messy but the block and head will be cleaned out. Mike __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan

02-25-2019, 01:56 PM	#3
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Ok te water pump is.... BEFORE you removed the radiator you should have filled it with the vinegar and run it for a while at full operating temp for a nice loong ride then you could do what the above poster said. Another option would be to fill the system with evaporust for a few days .......JMO Paul in CT

02-25-2019, 02:23 PM	#4
100IH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: SW Idaho Posts: 970	Re: Ok te water pump is.... Rust at the rear of the block can easily be piled up 1" deep and somewhat congealed or rusted so the particles form a quasi solid mass. Only way to really remove most of it is with the head off, going through the coolant passages, Old speedo cable works around corners well. Those flakes, however you go about loosening them up will migrate with the coolant and lodge in the radiator when running unless you catch them before they get there ie. upper hose. On th fan, The woodruf key might be sitting too high, might try W/O the key and see if the cotter pin aligns better. Don't over tighten for this try or it will be a btch to get off.

02-25-2019, 05:02 PM	#5
Synchro909 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 7,496	Re: Ok te water pump is.... Rust in the cooling system is a bit like "What oil do I use?" To properly clean while the engine is in the car, it is a two step process. Here's what I do. First any oiliness must be removed. I do that by going for a decent run (100 miles or so) with a tablet from the dishwasher in the radiator and plain water in the cooling system. Other detergents tend to foam and you don't want that! Once that is done, drain, flush and refill with about a 50-50 mix of vinegar and water. Go for another drive to get it mixed and hot and right through the system. I have just completed this after leaving the vingar in there for a month, driving the car now and then. When the vinegar is drained, the black stuff that comes out will stain anything so be careful. Flush well and refill with your usual coolant (preferably one that resists rust!). Before I did this, all I could see when I looked intot he top of the radiator was greasy gunk. It is all nice clean brassy coloured now and from experience, Iknow the block is just as clean. Definately no overheating problems now. When the engine is out and dismantled, the speedo cable trick works well with some compressed air. Even then, I usually follow up with vinegar for a couple of weeks after the engine goes back in. I'm not saying everybody sould do that - it's just what has worked well for me. __________________ I'm part of the only ever generation with an analogue childhood and a digital adulthood.

02-25-2019, 09:48 PM	#6
30 Closed Cab PU Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 2,332	Re: Ok te water pump is.... Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) All good advice above, make sure to run an upper hose coolant filter so what loosens up what is in the system does not plug up the radiator, If using white vinegar, when done with flush/backflush and before adding the final coolant - run a mix of distilled water and baking soda to neutralize the acidic contents/remnants of the white vinegar.