12 volt headlight options

[VFRhugh]

Well I've owned my A for 18 months and am finally ready to do something to the lights. Although I thought I was buying a car mechanically sound, it wasn't. With great mentoring by a couple of Barners it's running great with a counterbalanced crank, IB330 cam, 43# cut down flywheel, balanced pressure plate, new clutch plate, Marvel carburetor, 6.1 HC head, rebuilt the water pump, topping it all off with a Mitchell Overdrive. Now I want to be able to drive safely at night. My A came with an 8 volt alternator and battery setup which is a real stepchild. I will convert to 12 volt negative ground as I have the alternator and battery already. Does anyone have experience with the quartz lamp with reflector kits sold by the suppliers? My existing headlights need everything so I have to spend the money no matter what.
Thanks,
Hugh

[Y-Blockhead]

Hi Hugh. Not really an answer to your question but I use these "Brite Bulbs" from Ron Francis Wiring. https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=B%2D1125 They fit the stock sockets but are rated at 75//125 CP as opposed to 32/50 CP for the lights the vendors sell.

I have never compared them to Quartz Halogen tho.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Hi Hugh. Not really an answer to your question but I use these "Brite Bulbs" from Ron Francis Wiring. https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=B%2D1125 They fit the stock sockets but are rated at 75//125 CP as opposed to 32/50 CP for the lights the vendors sell.

i have never compared them to Quartz Halogen tho.

I use the bulbs from Ron Francis in my '32, I am very please with them. Be sure to get the REFLECTORS ONLY FROM BRATTON'S.

Charlie Stephens

[2manycars]

The reflectors that come with halogen kits are shaped wrong and are chrome plated, which lights up the whole neighborhood, but does not focus on the road. The new reflectors that Bratton;s is making are correct, and will focus and reflect best. As for bulbs, the other guys have the answers for that.

[JohnLaVoy]

We tested the "kits" that come with the reflectors and 2manycars is correct they can't be focused and give you poor lighting. The halogen is what we run you can get them from Hirsch Automotive (973) 642-2404. We have them in a couple of cars, once you focus them they are wonderful. But you need to focus them, they are a little shorter than the original so the focal point is a little different. we did an article on this in the Model A Times a few years ago.

[VFRhugh]

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This is exactly what I need to know. The kits seemed to good to be true. I'll have to figure out what parts I need to focus the sockets. What I have now doesn't make any sense.
Thanks again,
Hugh

[JohnLaVoy]

There is a screw at the back of the headlight bucket, that attaches to the headlight socket, there is a spring to keep tension. You just turn the screw to move the socket in or out which ever is necessary to bring in the focus.

[C26Pinelake]

The reflectors from Brattons are the very best. Wayne

[VFRhugh]

John,
I just realized what I thought was a mounting screw is also the focus screw. My sockets appear to be newer. I saw in Brattons catalog the sockets description says " foreign and fair quality". Mine look like thes with pig tails. Turning the focus screw spins the whole socket. Am I missing a part? If foreign and fair are the new part options I'm not sure what to do next. Any suggestions welcomed.
Hugh

[2manycars]

Originally Posted by VFRhugh

John,
I just realized what I thought was a mounting screw is also the focus screw. My sockets appear to be newer. I saw in Brattons catalog the sockets description says " foreign and fair quality". Mine look like thes with pig tails. Turning the focus screw spins the whole socket. Am I missing a part? If foreign and fair are the new part options I'm not sure what to do next. Any suggestions welcomed.
Hugh

The slot in the reflector keeps the socket from spinning when the tab on the socket is in the slot. The reflector needs to be installed to do that.

[Kevin in NJ]

Your best bet for lights. Good wiring, proper ground path for starters.

All original hardware, sockets and such.
Either the correct shaped reproduction or resilvered original reflectors.
A direct replacement halogen light bulb.
Generator at 6 volts.
Properly focus the bulbs.

A test was done in one of the model A magazines. The modern halogen bulb kits were not better then a properly focused bulbs. You see amount of light is not the issue, it is putting where it needs to go. The modern bulbs are great for lighting up everything, but I am pretty sure you do not care about the tops of the trees.

While people do not believe me, a properly set up generator will give you as much or more juice (for a long period of time) then the alternator. Unless you have the alternator set up with a proper sized pulley and proper belt tension, which can not be done with the factory water pump.

[VFRhugh]

I finally studied the holders and realized how there are supposed to work. Mine have different spring lengths but the biggest problem are the contacts shorting to each other��. Had to walk away for the day.
Thanks for the guidance,
Hugh

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Originally Posted by VFRhugh

I finally studied the holders and realized how there are supposed to work. Mine have different spring lengths but the biggest problem are the contacts shorting to each other��. Had to walk away for the day.
Thanks for the guidance,
Hugh

I had the same problem with the contacts shorting to each other. I had to put in all new parts. The old ones wear so the contacts in the sockets don't move straight anymore.

[DannL]

Originally Posted by VFRhugh

I finally studied the holders and realized how there are supposed to work. Mine have different spring lengths but the biggest problem are the contacts shorting to each other��. Had to walk away for the day.
Thanks for the guidance,
Hugh

Also, I too had shorting contacts on the passenger side. Took a small strip of gasket material and snaked it between the contacts, followed by a wrap of electrical tape.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by DannL

Also, I too had shorting contacts on the passenger side. Took a small strip of gasket material and snaked it between the contacts, followed by a wrap of electrical tape.

I did basically the same thing, but cut up pieces of tractor inner tube to insert between the contacts. Also added a small amount of RTV to the end of the pieces to help hold the pieces in the socket, otherwise pieces have a tendency to fall out when removing the bulbs.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Some of the repro sockets also have terminals that short out.
One fix is to grind the contacts diameter a bit smaller.

[Flyboy1st]

What about the 12Volt sealed beam kits?

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Flyboy1st

What about the 12Volt sealed beam kits?

There are two types of sealed beam kits available. One type places the sealed beam behind the original lens. It looks great (until you turn it on) but the original lens try to focus the already focused light from the sealed beam and you end of light all over. The other type exposes the sealed beam encased in a ring. To me it makes the lights look like the eyes of a bug eyed monster in a late night TV show. My suggestion would be to build the lights back to original using the reflectors from Bratton's and the 12 volt bulbs from Ron Francis Wire Works, https://www.ronfrancis.com, (800) 292-1940.

Charlie Stephens

[1931 flamingo]

As Charlie says.........................
Paul in CT

[CarlG]

Despite all the negativity toward LED headlights, quite a few guys in our club have used various types of LED lights (including me). In every instance, they are very pleased with the results.