Looking for the rubber bushings that go on the front engine mount

[SonicRaT]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I considered taking the pulley off but I don't think that is possible either. Maybe I can get in there enough to cut up the old one first.

I didn't see a way to get the pulley out with the radiator in place. I bought a new yoke along with all of the parts, so I'll be trying to cut out the existing yoke tomorrow. That should give me the room to get the original, one-piece spring out of the way. My hope is that since the "original" springs are individual, that I'll be able to drop everything in and fit the springs after the yoke is in place behind the pulley. Here's to hoping...

[john charlton]

When you lift the fr0nt of the engine to clear the mount remove a bolt each side from the rear engine mount or you could crack the flywheel housing .It allows the engine to pivot on the remaining bolts .

John in sunny Chandler AZ

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by john charlton

When you lift the fr0nt of the engine to clear the mount remove a bolt each side from the rear engine mount or you could crack the flywheel housing .It allows the engine to pivot on the remaining bolts .

John in sunny Chandler AZ

John, while that is true, the engine won't pivot more than a hair's breadth because the starter mechanism behind the block hits the firewall. I think I might be screwed.

[john charlton]

Your engine sounds real close to the firewall on my cars both RHD and LHD any year I get enough clearance to lift the yoke out .

John still in sunny Chandler AZ .

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by john charlton

Your engine sounds real close to the firewall on my cars both RHD and LHD any year I get enough clearance to lift the yoke out .

John still in sunny Chandler AZ .

I don't think the engine in that car is any closer than the others. I have given up for today. Have you taken out the yolk with the engine in the car? Any tricks?

[Ed in Maine]

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As others have mentioned there were no rubber bushings in this location. Looking at the Ford parts book it may have been part of the front mounting on a 1932 four cylinder. It looks like a nice place to put a rubber bushing but it may not fit. How about a modern tubular shock absorber rubber bushing? The last time I mounted a an engine in a Model A, I was surprised to see that after the engine was placed on the rear mounts and the transmission and drive train was installed, the front of the engine did not need any support at all. The engine was suspended up off the front cross-member. Ed

[katy]

When I jacked up the front of the engine to replace the front motor mount I had to remove the accelerator linkage from the rear of the engine, to avoid damaging it.

[daren007]

If you insist on using the bee hive setup use tubular shock bushings.