Break-in gone wrong!

[Cameron Koehn]

1952 8ba .100 overbore, stock stroke, Edel. heads, intake, 4bbl carb, Mallory unilite dist, 12v with alternator, Schneider 248F cam, Johnson adjustable lifters, 1.560 valves, lightly ported, factory oil pump, blah, blah, blah.

Initial break-in went ok. Nearly overheated until I got the carb and distr set better. 40# - 50# oil press. Let cool down and retorqed heads twice.

This morning I go out and start it, runs well for 5-8 min. then starts to load up. I immediately shut it down. (Now I had not been checking oil pressure regularly because it had been good every other run.) I then did a short crank without spark and confirmed 0# oil press. I then took the mechanical gauge out altogether and cranked and no oil came out.

Now what. I pulled the plugs, color and smell was good, but they had been kissing the valves, so I guess I need spacers for those. Any other checks before pulling the pan?

[Newc]

A V8er in Dallas, Or, found the oil press was leaking from beneath the oil pump mount surface. Did a pressure check with the pan off!! Newc

[Slamnslash]

Check the oil galley plugs and crank plugs. You should have higher pressure with a new build. Most pumps are 80psi.

[Seth Swoboda]

I had one of those happen to me but the bad guys went to jail.

[Ronnieroadster]

One possibility if the rear oil pump idler gear was installed backwards {easy to do on the 8BA} the gear mesh will work for a short time then the gear will strip thus the oil pump will not turn causing no oil pressure.

The 40 to 50 pounds pressure you noticed on the first fire up is good for Idle RPM which is what I expect you had during run time to set timing and carbs. If the idler gear is backwards the stress on the gear would be a lot at 50 PSI easily damaging the Idler gear if its installed incorrectly.

Pull the pan remove the pump have someone turn the crank with a rachet look up into the pump hole see if the full width of the idler gear teeth can be seen. If you see the gear use a long flat blade screw driver to push on the gear it should not move. If it moves then the gear on the end of the cam has come loss. If you find everything is good then there's some other issue you now have to look for.

Ronnieroadster

[flatjack9]

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What do you mean by "load up" ?

[Cameron Koehn]

Started to turn hard when running

Increased drag.

Sounded like starting to cease.

I can still turn it by hand with a bar, and the starter will still crank it.

[Bored&Stroked]

It could be any number of things. BUT - if it is now a lot harder to crank, then you have some sort of mechanical issue - most likely in the lower end. It could be that your bearing clearances were wrong, it could be the rings (but I doubt it).

Pull the plugs and see how the crank feels when you turn it over by hand. If you assembled the motor, does it feel a lot harder and/or different than before?

The fact that you lost oil pressure might mean that you wiped out the bearings and potentially the crank. I know this is not good news, but one needs to find out exactly what happened (as Ronnie noted above) and then see if there is damage to the bearings, crank, etc..

First order of business is to pull the pan as Ron noted (check the oil-pump drive gear). Check the bottom of the pan for bits of metal - from the drive gear or the bearings. Then pull your main caps and inspect the mains, then pull the rod caps and check the rod bearings.

I wish you the best!

[Cameron Koehn]

I assembled the motor. It is still easier to bar over than before the very first start.

[Cameron Koehn]

IMG_20221001_173603857.jpg

[Cameron Koehn]

That's from when I installed it. Maybe it turned itself around. Or maybe that is backwards.

[Ziggster]

I wish you luck. Hopefully, it is nothing too serious. This is one of my biggest fears for when it’s my turn to give it its’ first start after a rebuild process that has dragged on for years.

[Tim Ayers]

Ugh. Bummer. Hopefully you figure out where the problem is. What is that picture of the idler gear trying to show us? Edit: I actually put my glasses on and can now see the gears clearly. Damn, getting older stinks.

Curious about the spark plugs closing up by hitting the valves. Are these Edlebrock heads new? If so, all new Edlebrock heads use .750" reach plugs.

[Bored&Stroked]

It is also possible that the little gear on the end of the cam spun (and is now spinning). I have seen this before as there is just a very small "flat" to keep it from turning. On my race motors I either pin or tach weld the gear onto the cam.

[Bored&Stroked]

On the gear - looks fine to me - you have it meshing as it should. If you're getting no oil flow/pressure out of the back of the block, then it has to be related to the oil-pump and/or drive gears - so that is where I'd concentrate on.

The fact that at some point the motor starting lugging on the second start does concern me in that that sounds like the bearings/journals may have been damaged - you'll soon know.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Newc

A V8er in Dallas, Or, found the oil press was leaking from beneath the oil pump mount surface. Did a pressure check with the pan off!! Newc

I've seen this with a repop 49-53 pump from Speedway. The casting was too small around the base - massive leak. BUT if that was the case it should have been like this from the start.

This is the age ole' situation of "when we find it . . . we will know".

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Ugh. Bummer. Hopefully you figure out where the problem is. What is that picture of the idler gear trying to show us? Edit: I actually put my glasses on and see the gears clearly. Damn, getting older stinks.

Curious about the spark plugs closing up by hitting the valves. Are these Edlebrock heads new? If so, all new Edlebrock heads use .750" reach plugs.

The idler gear can go on two directions - he's showing us how it was when he originally assembled the engine. If it is on as the picture shows, then it was at least on correctly at this point.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

The idler gear can go on two directions - he's showing us how it was when he originally assembled the engine. If it is on as the picture shows, then it was at least on correctly at this point.

Haha. Thanks, Dale. I edited my comment. I originally looked at the pictures without my glasses. Once I put them on, I saw it clearly. LOL!!!!!

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Haha. Thanks, Dale. I edited my comment. I originally looked at the pictures without my glasses. Once I put them on, I saw it clearly. LOL!!!!!

Get those peepers on Tim!

[Cameron Koehn]

Yes I will pull the pan. I used the ford oil pump. All the clearances checked out. On the cam, it is a Schneider 248F. Reputable seller. Can't imagine a problem there, but we will see.

[Ken/Alabama]

I’m wondering if it blew a plug out of one of the rod throws on the crankshaft. Keep us posted.

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

I’m wondering if it blew a plug out of one of the rod throws on the crankshaft. Keep us posted.

If that is the case I doubt anything has been damaged by 0 oil pressure as oil was still circulating.

[Randall]

I threaded the holes and used pipe plugs on the one I just did. don't like those original style oil plugs

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

I’m wondering if it blew a plug out of one of the rod throws on the crankshaft. Keep us posted.

That is a real possibility! That happened to me on my very first stroker flathead (when I was 15).

Luckily, I saw the oil pressure drop and shut it down. Pulled the pan and there was one of those dang soft plugs in the pan. Knocked a new one in (made sure the 'peen' around the edges a bit more than the shop did) and Bob was your Uncle. I did NOT have any bearing issues . . . but I also didn't run it long enough for the engine to start seizing up.

Actually, I hope this is the issue! LOL

[Cameron Koehn]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

If that is the case I doubt anything has been damaged by 0 oil pressure as oil was still circulating.

I doubt oil was circulating, because I removed the gauge from the back of the block and no oil came out when I cranked. But maybe I don't understand oil flow in these things.

I don't have time right now to look into this thing, but I will, sooner than later. And I promise I will post the outcome in this thread. I strongly dislike finding a thread similar to mine only to find out the op never posted results or outcome.

[J Franklin]

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Originally Posted by Cameron Koehn

I doubt oil was circulating, because I removed the gauge from the back of the block and no oil came out when I cranked. But maybe I don't understand oil flow in these things.

If there was no oil circulating I would look to the pump being defective as it should pump more oil than would be expelled through a missing plug.

[ssffnomad]

Does it have a reproduction Oil Sump bolted to the Oil Pump ?

[Bored&Stroked]

If you had absolutely no oil coming out of the 1/4" NPT port at the back of the block, then the issue has to be with the pump and/or the pump drive gears. I would surely check out all the bearings - they may be toast if you ran it this way for multiple minutes.

[ssffnomad]

If it’s a reproduction Oil pick up tube / screen. Check the base that attaches to pump. When they weld the tube to base, the base can become warped. Therefore not a good gasket mating surface.
IMG_5551.jpg

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by ssffnomad

If it’s a reproduction Oil pick up tube / screen. Check the base that attaches to pump. When they weld the tube to base, the base can become warped. Therefore not a good gasket mating surface.
Attachment 538870

[Cameron Koehn]

Pulled the pan. Then the pump. Disassembled the oil pump and everything was fine there, which is bad news for me. I was hoping a new pump and we'd be going again. My engine hoist is borrowed out but I need to remove clutch and flywheel and the rear cover and go from there. I had plenty of oil in it and the crank and cam still look nice from the outside, although I have not pulled the caps yet. My biggest fear is cam gear failed and the engine will have to get completely disassembled...

[Cameron Koehn]

Originally Posted by ssffnomad

If it’s a reproduction Oil pick up tube / screen. Check the base that attaches to pump. When they weld the tube to base, the base can become warped. Therefore not a good gasket mating surface.
Attachment 538870

Factory ford oil pickup and screen.

[ssffnomad]

Good Luck Sir

[Ziggster]

Closely watching this thread. I feel for you. The original pickup tube on my C59A had been damaged at one point, but had been brazed back together, and I didn’t really like the repair. Luckily, I had a spare that I picked up somewhere along the line and used it instead, otherwise I would have likely purchased a reproduction.

[Cameron Koehn]

IMG_20240401_182108617.jpg

Got in to the oil pump drive gear. It all looks fine....... The gear definitely doesn't just SPIN on the cam.? Gear mesh is good. Any ideas? Thanks a lot for ya'lls help!

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Cameron Koehn

Attachment 539613

Got in to the oil pump drive gear. It all looks fine....... The gear definitely doesn't just SPIN on the cam.? Gear mesh is good. Any ideas? Thanks a lot for ya'lls help!

[Cameron Koehn]

I am finding no problems whatsoever. Is it possible the oil pump had lost prime? What about bypass spring malfunction? The pickup screen was not blocked. The crank has all the gallery plugs still installed. Oil pump drive gear lash is fine. What am I missing?

[fortyonerag]

Pardon me for what might be a dumb comment.

I'm putting a 59A together at the moment - my first engine and not yet ready to run. I fitted 'new' Mellings oil pump that was a different configuration to stock. The pick up that accompanied the Mellings protruded down so much the sump wouldn't fit. It was not fouling with baffles, the sump would not close. I had a gap of approx 1/2". Admittedly the sump was a little stoved in - now fixed.

I compared the pickup tube I had to another and found it was about 3/4" 'deeper' than the other one.

Is it possible that your pick up is hard on the 'floor' of the sump and your oil pump is being starved for suction?

[Cameron Koehn]

I will certainly check that. But it had about a half hour of run time with good oil pressure.

[deuce_roadster]

That larger gear looks really odd to me.

[T Scott]

I agree with deuce roadster. Something does not seem right. I am not totally familiar with Ford oil pumps, however I am familiar with metering gear pumps. I have never seen a gear pump that did not have tight clearances between the gear faces and outer diameter and the pump body. Maybe I'm way off base but looking the photo I don't understand how this pump can pump anything. Are these the wrong gears in this pump?

[tubman]

Originally Posted by T Scott

I agree with deuce roadster. Something does not seem right. I am not totally familiar with Ford oil pumps, however I am familiar with metering gear pumps. I have never seen a gear pump that did not have tight clearances between the gear faces and outer diameter and the pump body. Maybe I'm way off base but looking the photo I don't understand how this pump can pump anything. Are these the wrong gears in this pump?

Those are not the oil pump gears, which are down in the oil pump in the engine sump. Those gears transfer the power from the rear of the camshaft to the actual oil pump.

The gears looked funny to me too, until I realized that there was an odd perspective in the photo. As soon as I got my eyes right the optical illusion of a "dished gear" went away.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

That larger gear looks really odd to me.

As Tubman pointed out, that the back of the block and the cam gear and Idler gear (for lack of a better term). I am fixing to install that part tonight on my engine as a matter of fact!!! And the oil pump!!

[T Scott]

OK thank you Tubman. It makes more sense now.

[Kurt in NJ]

if you stick the pickup in a pan of oil will the pump pump oil?

[Bored&Stroked]

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Keep in mind that the little gear on the end of the cam might be slipping. You can probably tell by "holding the bigger gear" with something and have a friend manually turn the engine over. You'll then get to see if the cam gear is slipping. You can always check the relief valve in the pump - just to see if anything is fubared with it.

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by Cameron Koehn

I am finding no problems whatsoever. Is it possible the oil pump had lost prime? What about bypass spring malfunction? The pickup screen was not blocked. The crank has all the gallery plugs still installed. Oil pump drive gear lash is fine. What am I missing?

Yes, it is possible the pump lost prime. How much clearance did it have between gears and pump cover? If it had a gasket there, how thick was it? Some gaskets are way too thick and will cause a no-pressure condition due to inadequate "suction" on restart after a hot oil run period. I like to see .002-.007" clearance...lower number preferable if possible.

[Cameron Koehn]

Thanks for the replies. I will get back to you all with results after more inspection.

[Cameron Koehn]

IMG_20240406_123311698_BURST003.jpg

The oil pump works when i turn it by hand in oil. I cannot make the cam gear spin. Maybe it was just a fluke??? I'm bamfoozled!

[Tim Ayers]

I doubt this was the problem, but are you able to check to make sure the oil pump pick up sits up off the floor of the pan?

[oldbugger]

Does the cam gear, from post #35 spin when you spin the motor

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Cameron Koehn

Attachment 540030

The oil pump works when i turn it by hand in oil. I cannot make the cam gear spin. Maybe it was just a fluke??? I'm bamfoozled!

[Cameron Koehn]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I doubt this was the problem, but are you able to check to make sure the oil pump pick up sits up off the floor of the pan?

yes it clears by about a half inch

[Cameron Koehn]

Originally Posted by oldbugger

Does the cam gear, from post #35 spin when you spin the motor

yes and I held the idler gear with a channellock pliars and turned the motor over and it forced the gear to turn. I could not hold it from turning.

[aussie merc]

its certainly odd but check the driving gear within the pump itself and make sure its positively locked to the shaft [keyway, dimple, weld, spline it doesn't matter ] but interference fit wont work for long . Cummins had major dramas with this in its Bigcam 3 series the pump gears would slip under load and oil pressure would disappear the fix was a new repair kit for the oil pump with keyed shaft and gear

[Ken/Alabama]

I’d change the pump since you have it out. Sounds like everything else has checked out but the pump is an easy change.

[Cameron Koehn]

Is melling m-19 worth putting in? I kept the stock pump cause some said it would be better than a new unit... Definitely not opposed to putting a new one in. The Speedway unit is cheap, but you probably get what you pay for?

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Cameron Koehn

Is melling m-19 worth putting in? I kept the stock pump cause some said it would be better than a new unit... Definitely not opposed to putting a new one in. The Speedway unit is cheap, but you probably get what you pay for?

May want to check with Joe's Antique. I seem to recall he had a decent stock of US-made Mellings when they were still dependable pumps, but don't quote me on this.

https://www.joesantiqueauto.com

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Cameron Koehn

Is melling m-19 worth putting in? I kept the stock pump cause some said it would be better than a new unit... Definitely not opposed to putting a new one in. The Speedway unit is cheap, but you probably get what you pay for?

Here is my experience with a Speedway oil pump : https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ay#post1628041. I do not recommend them.

I believe "Ol' Ron" on this forum has expressed a dislike for Mellings pumps. I cannot speak for him; maybe he'll chime in.

From everything I have experienced and heard, a stock Ford pump is your best bet.

[cadillac512]

Cameron, did you have a chance to check the gear to cover clearance?

[Bored&Stroked]

I would not buy the Speedway pump - have seen issues with the castings.

[flatjack9]

I have a fixture for testing oil pumps. I'd gladly test yours if you'd like.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

I have a fixture for testing oil pumps. I'd gladly test yours if you'd like.

Very cool, Jack!

[Ronnieroadster]

Considering the pump picks up oil and you can see if flowing nicely out of the discharge port of the housing by just turning the gear by hand shows the oil pump is working correctly. This is certainly a mystery.
If it was me I would follow the path the oil flow must travel to verify there's no big opening that would allow the oil to flow so freely you would not see a build of pressure at the sender port.
Ronnieroadster

[oldbugger]

Do you have a mechanical fuel pump

[Cameron Koehn]

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Originally Posted by oldbugger

Do you have a mechanical fuel pump

Nope, I went with electric. I built a simple plate to block off the mount base.

[Cameron Koehn]

Originally Posted by cadillac512

Cameron, did you have a chance to check the gear to cover clearance?

I have not yet, but I will. Thanks for reminding me!

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Cameron Koehn

Nope, I went with electric. I built a simple plate to block off the mount base.

Did you clock the rear cam bearing to block the pushrod hole in the block? If not, this could be the cause of your lack of oil pressure.

[Cameron Koehn]

IMG_20240407_163908658.jpg

IMG_20240407_163858143.jpg

[Cameron Koehn]

Oil pump clearances.

Between gear faces and cap without gasket - 0.0015
Gasket thickness - 0.0065

Total clearance = about 0.008

Ya, plenty of clearance, but I'm not sure how to make it better.

Apparently it lost prime and I saw it before it reprimed? It looks like a careful assembly is in my engines future?.

[Ziggster]

Don’t think the 0.008” clearance is an issue. I went back through my thread on the sump oil pump rebuild I did, but I never did measure the gasket, or at least mentioned it. Michael from Third Gen mentioned up to 0.006” clearance between the gears was ok when I spoke to him about getting the gasket.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...light=Oil+pump

[oldbugger]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Did you clock the rear cam bearing to block the pushrod hole in the block? If not, this could be the cause of your lack of oil pressure.

This what i was getting too, big internal oil leak

[Cameron Koehn]

Originally Posted by oldbugger

This what i was getting too, big internal oil leak

Why then would it have had oil pressure for the first half hour of run time? I had someone else install the cam bearings. I have no clue how it was "clocked". I did make sure before I installed the cam that the bearing feed holes matched the block. I didn't want to starve the crank or cam for that matter.

[Ziggster]

Could it have something to do with either one of the oil pressure relief valves? I recall wondering why there was one in the sump oil pump, and one in the block on my C59A.

[Mart]

Is there any chance the block could have been modified at some point in the past for 90% full flow external filter? If so the horizontal passageway in the oil gallery might have a grub screw in it.

Long shot and does not fully explain things but easy to check and rule out.

Is the plug fitted correctly behind the cam gear?

I'm not an 8BA guy. these might not apply.

Mart.

[Fritz]

I don’t think installing the rear cam bearing sideways to block the fuel pump pushrod hole is a well-known trick. I kinda doubt your installer did it, but you can check by putting the pushrod in and seeing if it is stopped by the cam bearing or if it rides on the cam lobe. If the pushrod goes all the way down to the cam, that’s definitely a problem. I think people install a plug or even put the pushrod back in.

[Cameron Koehn]

Originally Posted by Fritz

I don’t think installing the rear cam bearing sideways to block the fuel pump pushrod hole is a well-known trick. I kinda doubt your installer did it, but you can check by putting the pushrod in and seeing if it is stopped by the cam bearing or if it rides on the cam lobe. If the pushrod goes all the way down to the cam, that’s definitely a problem. I think people install a plug or even put the pushrod back in.

I never had a pushrod. If I look down the pushrod hole I can see the cam lobe. Remember, this is an 8ba block. The pushrod bushing is installed.

[Cameron Koehn]

Originally Posted by Ziggster

Could it have something to do with either one of the oil pressure relief valves? I recall wondering why there was one in the sump oil pump, and one in the block on my C59A.

An 8ba only has a pressure relief on the pump. I did get to wondering if the plug at the front threaded itself out?(this can't be,,,it was TIGHT!)

[pistonbroke]

Ok. I've been following this thread from the beginning but held my tongue. I know its unlikely but when the pump gear gets up to running temp could it spin on the shaft under load then cool off and seem normal when removed and visually inspected. I'm referring to the gear on the shaft that actually moves the oil in the bottom of the pump. Tim

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Cameron Koehn

I never had a pushrod. If I look down the pushrod hole I can see the cam lobe. Remember, this is an 8ba block. The pushrod bushing is installed.

Not a bushing, but a plug or grub screw to block or close that hole off. Without the push rod in place, oil will be forced through that hole. In a stock set-up, the push rod would cause resistance to the flow of oil through that hole. Now there is nothing stopping it.

[Cameron Koehn]

Originally Posted by pistonbroke

Ok. I've been following this thread from the beginning but held my tongue. I know its unlikely but when the pump gear gets up to running temp could it spin on the shaft under load then cool off and seem normal when removed and visually inspected. I'm referring to the gear on the shaft that actually moves the oil in the bottom of the pump. Tim

Yes I had thought of that too, but unless it happened to stop at precisely the right place, the picture I posted is current and the gear is peened to the shaft. If it had spun, it would be unlikely that the peen still lined up.

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Not a bushing, but a plug or grub screw to block or close that hole off. Without the push rod in place, oil will be forced through that hole. In a stock set-up, the push rod would cause resistance to the flow of oil through that hole. Now there is nothing stopping it.

Tim, he had pressure for several minutes' running, then none on a restart.

[Cameron Koehn]

First start had 40 psi. Same for the next 4-5 runs.

[Cameron Koehn]

I checked and there is no modification for 90% oil filter.

Follow my logic. If the pump pumps oil when I turn it by hand, and the cam and gear turn when I hold them with a wrench and turn the crank, and the pump gears have not appeared to spin on pump shaft, and the oil pickup is stock with no pinholes, ...oh maybe the bypass is opening at a super low pressure so that when I turn by hand I get flow, but when installed and pumping against pressure, it bypasses?

[Cameron Koehn]

IMG_20240408_140551189.jpg

What is the stock (factory) bypass pressure? And would i just shim the spring for more? Not saying this one's bad, just wondering.

[Lawrie]

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even if the relief valve was stuck open there would still be oil in the gallery
when cranking, as it has to go past the gallery to get to the relief valve.
Lawrie

[Cameron Koehn]

Not on an 8ba. The ONLY relief is on the pump itself. Unless I'm off my rocker.

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by Cameron Koehn

Not on an 8ba. The ONLY relief is on the pump itself. Unless I'm off my rocker.

You are correct.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Cameron Koehn

First start had 40 psi. Same for the next 4-5 runs.

Ah, right.

[Ziggster]

Some good info from Mac VP in post #10.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...1316&showall=1

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Ziggster

Some good info from Mac VP in post #10.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...1316&showall=1

Re: About oil pressure relief springs- Again
In the science of hydraulics, pressure will be constant throughout any closed system.....regardless of the distance from the pressure generating source (i.e. the oil pump). If there is a pressure relief opening (controlled by a spring loaded valve) the excess pressure will bleed off through this valve. Since the pump is capable of building more than enough pressure, the relief valve will be constantly bleeding off this pressure as long as the pump is running.

If you have two pressure relief valves, but they have different spring loads, the oil pressure will push against both simultaneously. What will happen is that the oil will bleed off through the lower rated pressure relief valve. The higher loaded spring in the other valve will continue to hold itself closed. So even if you have two or more relief valves, the system will seek its relief through the lowest spring load.....always.

As for our old flathead oil pumps, all the original Ford pumps (1932-47/48) did NOT have a built in pressure relief valve as part of the pump itself. Ford designed the system with a separate relief valve, engineered in the oil gallery line....the tube running from rear to the front in the valve chest. The early V8's had a 50 psi relief spring in there. Beginning in 1941 they changed the spring rating to 80 psi and it received a new part number. At the same time, Ford also changed the oil pressure sender unit to the 80 psi rated unit to match up to the new system rating.

Unless your older (32-48) oil pump is still in good operating condition, you would have to replace them with the latest version pump, which was the 8BA type. You can't buy those older pumps or kits for them anymore. The new style pump has one additional feature....it has its own built-in 80 psi relief valve.

So when you use this pump in the older motors with the separate relief valve up front, you can either remove the spring and plunger from this location, and put the hex plug back in place, or simply leave it all intact. I would change out the spring to the 80 psi type to match up to the 80 psi type in the oil pump.....if your sender unit and gauge are the 80 psi rating. Otherwise I would use the 50 psi spring.

We have both springs in stock. For some reason they are not listed on our website. I will fix that later today.
__________________
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Cincinnati, Ohio
Office: 513-724-9486
www.vanpeltsales.com
www.classictransmission.com

[Ronnieroadster]

[QUOTE=petehoovie;2303344]Re: About oil pressure relief springs- Again

So when you use this pump in the older motors with the separate relief valve up front, you can either remove the spring and plunger from this location, and put the hex plug back in place, or simply leave it all intact. I would change out the spring to the 80 psi type to match up to the 80 psi type in the oil pump.....if your sender unit and gauge are the 80 psi rating. Otherwise I would use the 50 psi spring.

We have both springs in stock. For some reason they are not listed on our website. I will fix that later today.
_

I think you wrote something wrong.
If you remove the spring and plunger and then put the hex plug back on your going to have a big hole at the end of the oil feed tube creating a good sized oil leak. If the plunger is removed the hole where the plunger sits needs to be closed.
Ronnieroadster

[pistonbroke]

Cameron I may be wrong but I was told here on the barn that 8ba's had 80 psi systems from the start so if that's true your 40 or 50 psi on a fresh engine would indicate a problem from the start to me. God forbid but I have seen the galley tube fail on a 8ba and that could cause a similar problem but you would still see oil at the port in the back of the block I would think. How long did you crank on it with the gauge out? With the system open to air the oil would drain back down and with the gear reduction it would take a bit of cranking to get oil up again. Tim

[flatjack9]

The pump generally relieves at around 60 psi.

[tubman]

My 1953 Motor manual says the relief valve opens at 57 psi. That's close enough to what "flatjack9" says to probably be right.

[flatjack9]

I've tested many and there is some variation. 55- 60.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

I've tested many and there is some variation. 55- 60.

As one would expect with any analog mechanical device.