Help. '50 gauge cluster issue

[Joe B.]

The fuel, oil, and temp. gauges quit on my '50 Tudor. This (see pics) can mounted behind the cluster, wired inline with the ignition to gauges feed burned out. Is it an adjustable circuit breaker? I find no reference to it anywhere. I made a crude repair. Questions, What is it? ? Is it needed, as it is on none of the diagrams I have? Is there an alternative, like a fuse for instance? I searched for the part online and cannot find it. All the schematics show a wire directly from the ignition sw. to the fuel gauge. The gauges work if I bypass this device. Thanks in advance.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Joe B.

The fuel, oil, and temp. gauges quit on my '50 Tudor. This (see pics) can mounted behind the cluster, wired inline with the ignition to gauges feed burned out. Is it an adjustable circuit breaker? I find no reference to it anywhere. I made a crude repair. Questions, What is it? ? Is it needed, as it is on none of the diagrams I have? Is there an alternative, like a fuse for instance? I searched for the part online and cannot find it. All the schematics show a wire directly from the ignition sw. to the fuel gauge. The gauges work if I bypass this device. Thanks in advance.

[Dan in MI]

Is your car 12 volts? That looks like a 12v to 6v voltage reducer. Dennis Carpenter shows a similar one.

Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator - 1957-66 Ford Truck, 1966-77 Ford Bronco, 1960-66 Ford Car
Part #: B9MZ-10804-C

Features:
• Controls the voltage to Gas and Temperature gauges
• New solid state technology for smooth gauge performance. No adjustment needed. If your gauges have stopped working or are reading incorrectly, this is usually the problem

$21.95e

[Ggmac]

See all those little threads ( wires ) around one arm , they get warm and bend the bi metal strip , droping the voltage . Iirc. I would not try your fix until you verify that it is not a voltage drop . If it is and you connect direct voltage to it , it could ruin all the gauges attached to it .
Usually used on ford products that have been converted to 12 volts . I think your car was originally a 6 volt . I’m sorry for not helping more .

[Ggmac]

Side note , I use a newer design . I get it on Amazon, $20 and one will handle all 3 gauges .
12vdc to 6 vdc 20 amp .

[TJ]

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Looks like one of the volt reducers that Ford used on later model Fords in the 50's and 60's. I'm assuming that your Ford has been converted to 12 volts? If you are still 6 volts that reducer is not needed.

[Joe B.]

Thanks for the replies. I should have mentioned it is 6 volt powered though it has been changed to neg ground. Turns out it is a voltage regulator. Why it was added, I have no idea. Since the car is 6v at present, I think TJ is right about it not being needed. Going to do a little more research. At least I know what it is and the gauges are back in service. Thanks again.

[Flathead Fever]

It looks like its factory with the cloth wiring going to it. Usually when somebody messes with electrical stuff, they make a mess of it. Are the gauges original? It's there for a reason, if the gauges were working correctly with it in the circuit, I would say it needs it. I'm pretty sure they had them as early as 1957 with their new 12V systems. I can't find where a '50 Ford ever had one, so it might be there because of a modification.

I had thirteen early Mustangs, and they used one on the instruments to drop the voltage from 12V to 5V. The contact opens and closes real fast, the average time the contacts touch reduces the voltage to 5V. The new replacements are electronic, no moving parts. It produces a more stable voltage to keep the gauges from changing as the alternator cycles from 12.6V to 14.2V. I guess just using a resistor to drop the voltage to 5V would allow the gauges to fluctuate a little with the alternator.

You can "probably" momentarily by-pass it to see if the gauges peg all of the way and then you will know for sure if you need it.

[leon bee]

Your wire looks mighty good compared to the cars I drag home.

[Joe B.]

The gauges did work when I bypassed it. There was a stereo in at one point so maybe a voltage conversion at one time which could explain the regulator. The mechanical restoration was done in '85 so there may have also been some new wiring put in. I'm going to put a new identical mechanical regulator in as I don't think my solder job will last. It may come in handy if I ever need a jump from a 12v battery. It could save the gauges as it keeps the voltage at 5v supposedly regardless of input.
edit: I've got a couple more under dash projects to go. Hope my back holds out.

[cjshaker]

I would certainly replace it and not just bypass it. My 'newer' '60s vehicles use them to drop and regulate voltage to 6 volts, but yours, with the car already being 6v, apparently just regulates. Gauges are sensitive pieces and don't like an overvoltage situation, which can blow them.
You may get away with it for a while, but eventually it'll cause a major issue and you'll be looking for new gauges.
You probably already know, but be very careful with that wiring! There's a 99% chance that the sheathing has gotten brittle, and trying to move or bend them won't end good.

[Ggmac]

Just a dumb question, did you ever have a 8 v battery in it and what voltage is your generator putting out at cruise speed or aprx 2000 rpm ?

[pistonbroke]

Joe, That is called an IVR. Instrument Voltage Regulator. They are a factory part . They keep the voltage down and constant for the instrument's. I don't know when Ford started using them but they were in use up through the seventies on there trucks. I believe the output varies with the application. If it was OEM in you car your instruments will work with out it , but for how long and how well would be the issue. Tim

[Joe B.]

Thanks, I'm keeping one in there. I read that Ford started using the regulator when they went to 12v in '56. @ Ggmac, I've only owned the '50 for 6 months and don't know all of it's history. The charging system is fine. CJ, yes the wiring is treated with kid gloves.

[Joe B.]

Question: In the photo, the green w/ red tracer wire sheathing has separated exposing a yellow core. I'm assuming the original wire rubber insulation would be black, meaning this is reproduction wire. Would that be right?

[1942deluxe]

In the 49-59 parts book the 10804-base number (instrument cluster voltage regulator) was not used until the 1957 Ford and Thunderbird. My best educated guess is that it is not an original piece on your car.

[paul2748]

They were first used in 1957. 56 used full 12 volt gauges, then in 1957 Ford went back to 6 volt gauges and used the regulator.


Back in the flathead days, Ford used a regulator/reducer type thing but I thought that was discontinued sometime in the late 40's.

[leon bee]

Originally Posted by Joe B.

Question: In the photo, the green w/ red tracer wire sheathing has separated exposing a yellow core. I'm assuming the original wire rubber insulation would be black, meaning this is reproduction wire. Would that be right?

After I studied your photo I decided that yes, not original wire. Looks nice.

[Joe B.]

Thank you! I'm sure glad the issue was this burned out added on regulator and not burned out gauges.