installing oil filter on a model B engine

[FrankWest]

Can you really install an oil filter on a model A/B engine?
There is almost no oil pressure, would not anything other than the oil screen on the oil pump actually BLOCK the flow of oil?

[kenparker]

Yes you can.

The lack of pressure or low pressure begins once the oil is dumped into the Valve Chamber. There is plenty of pressure at the Pump and the passages to move the oil to the Valve Chamber. Try removing the Oil Plug in the side of the block just below the Distributor. You will find that the oil can squirt 5 or more feet out that hole. Yes, it will get your pants leg wet.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by kenparker

Yes you can.

The lack of pressure or low pressure begins once the oil is dumped into the Valve Chamber. There is plenty of pressure at the Pump and the passages to move the oil to the Valve Chamber. Try removing the Oil Plug in the side of the block just below the Distributor. You will find that the oil can squirt 5 or more feet out that hole. Yes, it will get your pants leg wet.

Good..
Now how do you go about piping in a typical oil filter?

[Mitch//pa]

You can buy the complete kit from any of the suppliers....

[kenparker]

The Filter Adaptor Plates either tap into the internal piping - inside the Valve Gaalley or use external piping from the Oil Plug Port below the Distributor then dump into the Valve Chamber. Clear as dirty oil, right. ken

[FrankWest]

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Do many model A owners choose to Add an oil filter?

[Mitch//pa]

Many do but I can't because of the look with judging etc. I would on vehicles I drove more and were not showing or if I installed a metal cam gear but good luck getting it out with a filter prob not

[JohnLaVoy]

We have the Afordable filter set up from Bratton's on several cars. We do add a bracket to adjust the position. The kit comes with the pluming to direct the pressurized oil to the filter and back to the original location in the pan dip tray.

[JBill]

There is another kind that attaches to a refashioned timing gear cover.

[George Miller]

What is a banger. Is that some guy chasing a girl.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi George,

Could also be a piano player ..... male or female.

[bdave_mcc]

Like others have said...there are kits you can buy. The option is also there to add a remote oil filter if you want it...Its a little less costly but to each his own...

[Dodge]

A Banger is also an English Sausage. I don't think there is a recent rise, maybe its just
that your seeing more via the internet. We have been using the term "4 Banger" "6 Banger" for 60yrs. plus by a lot of folks out our way.

[Coneross-A]

Originally Posted by JohnLaVoy

We have the Afordable filter set up from Bratton's on several cars. We do add a bracket to adjust the position. The kit comes with the pluming to direct the pressurized oil to the filter and back to the original location in the pan dip tray.

John,

I've been considering one of the filter kits you show in the picture. I believe the adapter to orient the filter in the vertical is sold separately, but I would consider it worth the added cost, as the horizontal filter orientation would make a big mess at oil change time.

I have a few questions for you.

1. The kit includes a copper tube. I assume one end connects to the inlet of the filter, and the other inside the engine. What does the other end connect to and how does it connect?

2. Do you change oil less frequently since you have filters installed?

3. Is there an oil that works better with the addition of a filter? I currently use Brad Penn [Penn Grade 1] SAE 40 because it has zinc in the formulation.

Thanks

[Mitch//pa]

The vertical style filter mounting also allows the new filter to be primed with oil before install without a mess

[Bob-A]

"Any" filter is better than no filter! I run a full-flow on my '29, and a
by-pass on my '31, with a "B" block. I also run air filters on my carb's too even if they are only good for birds & rocks. The only time I didn't use fliters is when I smoked Lucky Strikes and Chesterfields.

Bob-A

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Coneross-A

...Is there an oil that works better with the addition of a filter? I currently use Brad Penn [Penn Grade 1] SAE 40 because it has zinc in the formulation.

Uh-oh... First time in the new year...

[Jon W]

This is on a car I just bought.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Jon W

This is on a car I just bought.

That is the one I have on all 3 of my cars but I drive them, not show them. I also have inserted bearings and wouldn't even consider running such a motor without a filter.
After 15,000 miles touring with a camper trailed behind, I stripped the motor to check things out and after inspection, just put it back together again. I think that without the filter, I'd have to have done serious work in there.

[bettlesr]

JBill
Here is the Taylor filter adapter that goes in place of the timing gear cover. I converted it to be used on a full pressure system. Normally the outlet of the filter spill on to the timing gear.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If an oil filter will change a 4 banger into a 4 hummer, I'm all for it.

I also have never heard the term "4 banger" until I saw it here a couple years ago. It's not what I'd call my engine.

[Hoogah]

Originally Posted by forever4

x2! I hate the recent rise of that stupid term.

Maybe he is planning on building an engine with sloppy machining and wrong ignition timing?

Nah, don't take offence. It's a term of endearment or affection rather than a slight. Bottom line: It's just a word!

[Coneross-A]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If an oil filter will change a 4 banger into a 4 hummer, I'm all for it.

I also have never heard the term "4 banger" until I saw it here a couple years ago. It's not what I'd call my engine.

I heard the term long ago. I remember trying to fix a Kohler 3-banger on a ditch witch while working a summer construction job. While in college...taking thermodynamics, I used a slight variation to help classmates that were completely mechanically DECLINED to remember the Carnot (Internal combustion engine) cycle. Instead of using the academic Intake, Compression, Combustion. Exhaust provided in text books, I changed it to Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow. More than one person was able to remember that come test time.

[fredski]

Just my thought , I don't see the point in a oil filter if you change oil every 500 miles.

Fredski

[updraught]

It catches all the chunks spraying off the timing gear as it slowly disintegrates ...

[Flathead]

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So should I change the timing gear at every oil change or every other oil change? What did Ford recommend?

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by fredski

Just my thought , I don't see the point in a oil filter if you change oil every 500 miles.

Fredski

You illustrate the value of a filter nicely. I have changed oil at anywhere between 3 and 5 thousand miles since installing the filter and like I said, the motor is doing just fine. 500 miles is only one day's driving.

[john in illinois]

Indeed.

John

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

That is the one I have on all 3 of my cars but I drive them, not show them. I also have inserted bearings and wouldn't even consider running such a motor without a filter.
After 15,000 miles touring with a camper trailed behind, I stripped the motor to check things out and after inspection, just put it back together again. I think that without the filter, I'd have to have done serious work in there.

where is that filter attached?

[Dave in MN]

For a Model A engine only: The filter is spun onto a prepared surface on the replacement valve chamber cover you get with the kit. The filtered oil is delivered to the same area of the engine as a stock engine. FWIW: I also prefer the "A-Ford-able" oil filter. The kit with the replacement valve chamber cover, as it filters almost all of the oil each time it passes through the system.

For a Model B engine only: I prefer the replacement side cover with mount for an oil filter manufactured by Stipe Machine in Wisconsin. You can order directly from Stipe Machine or Snyder's typically has them on their shelf. Snyder's number: B-6705-F
This kit will not pressurize the B engine if you don't make any other changes. The relief can be adjusted between 10-40 pounds. You need to slightly modify the top of your oil pump to force most of the oil out the side of the engine (at the side plug) where it is piped to the filter. After being filtered, the oil is delivered back to the oil galley. I have completed three B engines with stock rear mains in the last three years and not had a problem with the rear main leaking.
See photo below: Buried under the cast exhaust manifold is a Stipe side cover with oil filter. Note the filter is located just to the rear of the side timing gear cover. The Stipe kit allows the use of a Model B fuel pump. The top of the pump needs to be "clocked" in a different position to allow fuel line connections. I have done so in this photo. A tube header can also be built to clear the Stipe side cover. On top of this modified B block you also see a Roof 101 Cyclone head by Charlie Yapp. This is my latest project.
Good Day!

Correction: Post revised after noticing that the original question was in regard to a Model B four cylinder engine.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

The filter is spun onto a prepared surface on the replacement valve chamber cover you get with the kit. The filtered oil is delivered to the same area of the engine as a stock engine. FWIW: I also prefer the "A-Ford-able" oil filter. The kit with the replacement valve chamber cover as it filters almost all of the oil each time it passes through the system.
Good Day!

Thanks
http://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A6705F.html

In what year did Ford introduce and oil filter on their engines?

[JBill]

A little off-topic, but Jon W. in post 19 above might want to change out what looks like a copper fuel line.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If an oil filter will change a 4 banger into a 4 hummer, I'm all for it.

I also have never heard the term "4 banger" until I saw it here a couple years ago. It's not what I'd call my engine.

I thought that is what people called these engines. My engine does not bang at all but makes a wonderful purring sound. Listen to the included clip.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IZn...ature=youtu.be
Note that is not Me singing but Al Jolson

Is the term flat head only for v8's These fine reliable four cylinder engines have a flat head too.

Please note! I change the title..I was only calling my engine a 4 banger because I though that was what you seasoned car guys called the engine..I am New To the field!

[Tom Wesenberg]

When I was in high school my classmate only built hot rods using inline 6 cylinder engines, and he called them "6 bangers". That's the only time I've heard that term, and I was used to hearing "6 banger", but I've never heard it in reference to 4 and 8 cylinder engines.

[Jon W]

Originally Posted by JBill

A little off-topic, but Jon W. in post 19 above might want to change out what looks like a copper fuel line.

It is a copper fuel line. Since the car has not yet been delivered I haven't had the opportunity to go over it. But why is a copper fuel line a bad thing? My initial reaction is with all the stuff in gasoline now that is one less thing to dissolve.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Jon W

It is a copper fuel line. Since the car has not yet been delivered I haven't had the opportunity to go over it. But why is a copper fuel line a bad thing? My initial reaction is with all the stuff in gasoline now that is one less thing to dissolve.

I think from the vibrations copper can become brittle "work Hardened" and crack.

[Jim Brierley]

e-mail me at [email protected] and I'll send you the chapter from my book about putting a B in your A.

[Jim Brierley]

Oops, about putting a filter on a B engine.

[Bob C]

I don't think it has been pointed out that this filter will not work on Franks B engine.

Bob

[Jon W]

Originally Posted by JBill

A little off-topic, but Jon W. in post 19 above might want to change out what looks like a copper fuel line.

That got me to thinking so I looked up what was originally installed. Then I did some research and found there is no consensus, but a lot of opinions on the correct choice for long life and safety.

Nobody presented data from testing, but a lot of correct information was available about how various materials harden. It seems the use of steel, aluminum or copper without some ability to absorb the vibrations is going to possibly harden any material and eventually cause a crack. The question unanswered was which tubing material would last the longest, and how long would each last?

But JBill said exactly what was said in a couple of the books I have read on Model A cars about flexing and breaking being a concern with copper, but then everything else I read on the internet was either a repeat of that or someone refuting the claims.

I don't even have the car and I am confused. This is not good.

[Benson]

As the original question was about a Model B:

Bill Stipe makes a very nice Model B oil filter:

920-467-2895

Better to call than try to use website:

Like all of his products the workmanship is "TOP SHELF".

[FrankWest]

I found this

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/b-...e-relief-valve

I will review the other listing you just sent too and the info from Jim also.
Thanks for all your help.
The only thing that scares me at the Snyder site, it states this add on will pressurize the oil system?

This kit fits the 1932-34 4-cyl. Aluminum valve cover has built in filter system as well as adjustable pressure relief vavle that can be adjusted externally. Comes with full instructions for pressurizing the engine. U.S.A.

I don't know if I want to do that...May induce failures in 80 year old engine! I don't want to kill my engine while trying to save. Some of the posters here said the oil was under pressure already, I thought it was not??? That is why I thought an oil filture would not work, but just block the free flow of oil! But what do I know???

[Tom Wesenberg]

The oil will only flow up to the valve chamber if it's under some pressure. In the valve chamber the oil flows freely out the open tube, so the pressure before that opening is very little. If you route the open tube to an oil filter, then you increase the pressure slightly to push the oil through the filter.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The oil will only flow up to the valve chamber if it's under some pressure. In the valve chamber the oil flows freely out the open tube, so the pressure before that opening is very little. If you route the open tube to an oil filter, then you increase the pressure slightly to push the oil through the filter.

Ok..so basically there is no major increase in pressure throughout the rest of the engine, right

Tom, you always seem like an experienced guy, do you think the oil filter is a wise choice for my car...Or should I just change my oil more frequently?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I like the idea of filtered oil and would do it on a car not going to high points judging. If you only drive a few hundred miles a year, then it may not pay because you'll change oil once a year and be under 500 miles. But if you like to drive a lot, then you can extend the oil changes, and that will help offset the cost of the oil filter kit.

[emf]

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I hope this isn't hijacking this thread, but I need to understand a couple of things about oil flow in the Model B engine. I had a 27 Stude a few years ago that had an accessory filter that received oil for filtering from a T in the exit line of the pump. This filter was in parallel with the main line and robbed oil from the front main. After about six months, the front main failed due to lack of oil and the repair was expensive. In the B engine, from where does the engine oil enter the filter that is on the cam gear cover? Is this system on the B a full flow design or is the flow parallel to the main line as above? Also with only 5 to 8 pounds of oil pressure, will the filter medium pass enough oil to filter adequately? Will the filter's by-pass valve ever open if the filter fails and restricts the flow of oil? I hope my questions are clear enough...

Frank

[emf]

I just re-read post #31 and it explains much. I will investigate more...

Frank

[TK in LA]

Here is a few pictures of one that came on a "B" motor I acquired a few years back. Motor has inserted bearings and a reworked oil pump. The system has an adjustable pressure regulator that allows any excess oil pressure to be dumped onto the cam gear.