Shoebox

[Habusailor]

What is the simplest way to lower the rear of a 49 ford sedan?

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[paul2748]

Probably lowering blocks

[Ford Freak]

Originally Posted by paul2748

Probably lowering blocks

Yep , and also the cheapest ! I wouldn't go more than 1.50 though .

[Pat/Ohio]

My '50 is lowered (with blocks) at about 1.5". Has a nice stance IMHO!

Pat

[Habusailor]

That's what I am looking for. I will be adding dual pipes too

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[51 MERC-CT]

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Simplest ? The way we used to do it back in the 50's---
Three or four bags of cement or sand in the trunk and sometimes a bunch of cement blocks

[Gene1949]

Don't forget the Ford Aerostar springs up front.

[Tinker]

You can put 4" blocks in if you like too. One saftey thing to think about then adding blocks is to mind your scrub line. if your ubolts extend below your rim, you maybe in trouble of maybe dropping your suspension on the ground if you get a flat at hwy speed. Also pinion angle of the drive shaft is worth noting.

Blocks look great on the rear. I think on per 54 fords when using drop springs or cutting a full coil up front, you should shim the a-arm out to correct camber with a 90 degree bracket supplied by jamcosuspension (https://jamcosuspension.com/products...productID/2399). 54 on have the bracket for the upper a arm from factory and just need washers.


If I was going to slam a shoe box i'd do drop spindles upfront and retain the spring movement. Not that that is what your asking

[Paul Bennett]

The only downside to lowering blocks is that you must use a bumper jack to remove the tire/wheel. Not that it's a big problem but some cars don't have them anymore and owners rely on hydraulic jacks under the shock bracket or the diff.


If you choose lowering blocks, pay attention to the width of your rear spring and the diameter of the rear axle. There are many U-Tube videos on the generic process.

[Tinker]

Which diameter of the axle should I be concerned about? and why the width of the spring? Are you saying after market ubolts are not wide enough?

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Paul Bennett

The only downside to lowering blocks is that you must use a bumper jack to remove the tire/wheel. Not that it's a big problem but some cars don't have them anymore and owners rely on hydraulic jacks under the shock bracket or the diff.


If you choose lowering blocks, pay attention to the width of your rear spring and the diameter of the rear axle. There are many U-Tube videos on the generic process.

In the 26 years that I have owned my Merc., I have never used a bumper jack to remove tires/wheels.
By adding a strategically located snug fit block of wood semi-permanently held in place in the frame ( to keep the frame lip from bending ), a low profile floor jack can be used to lift both same side wheels off the ground.
When the floor jack is not available, a modified 80's GM frame jack is used.
Probably the only time I would use a bumper jack is if I had to remove a tire on the road only in conjunction with the frame jack as a safety factor.

[19Fordy]

You can also use some 3/8 thick angle iron for jack pads. The pads shown are on a 40 Ford.

51MERC-CT: What modifications you made to that GM jack to make it work under your car?
Thanks, JIM

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

You can also use some 3/8 thick angle iron for jack pads. The pads shown are on a 40 Ford.

51MERC-CT: What modifications you made to that GM jack to make it work under your car?
Thanks, JIM

Just added vertical tabs to prevent sliding off frame, removed hump and added some rubber sheet for cushioning.

[Paul Bennett]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Which diameter of the axle should I be concerned about? and why the width of the spring? Are you saying after market ubolts are not wide enough?

Diameter where the U bolt goes around the axle.

The width matters soas the U bolt will go into the shock plate holes.

What I'm saying is after market bolts cater to the muscle car market which have wider axels and springs.

51 - I use a bumper jack since it came with my car in a nice cloth bag matching the trunk lining. I do like your wood-frame pinch idea and will check ebay for the 82-92 GM jack. I may weld a bolt stub to keep the jack from slipping. My previous ride (non-Ford) had factory welded jack pads under the side frame which fit the pad on a miniature floor jack for quick track work. Whatever gets the job done.