James Rogers, Brent, Purdy, etc...question

[KR500]

Herm, One of the align bore fixtures I have is an old Ammco. Lempco also produced one of these. The fixture uses a false camshaft which you install in the A block and it has two equally distanced swing arms which rotate on the false camshaft and lock onto your boring bar in the fixture to establish the cam to crank center line distance. What is your opinion of these fixtures?

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by KR500

Herm, One of the align bore fixtures I have is an old Ammco. Lempco also produced one of these. The fixture uses a false camshaft which you install in the A block and it has two equally distanced swing arms which rotate on the false camshaft and lock onto your boring bar in the fixture to establish the cam to crank center line distance. What is your opinion of these fixtures?

There was a popular re-builder that would re-position the cam closer to the crank as an "improvement" The sleaveing of the cam in a "miracle motors" engine would preclude the use of one of these devices.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

I believe #15 and #16 are possible.
If it were possible to change that gear while the crank is in the engine I would but the crank must be out and you must use a press. Of course if we had it to do over....
so lesson 4 is to always change the crank gear too

We have completed one set of measurements and we get a measurement that is .024-.026 over the designated/required 4.154-4.156

Using a different method we are gonna measure again, since our measurement is key to Dan being able to make a correct oversize.

More to come

Mike K, are you willing to post the smallest diameter in your pile?

The gear can be removed in the car. Use a 2 jaw puller to remove it. I have done more than one like this.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

...If it were possible to change that gear while the crank is in the engine I would but the crank must be out and you must use a press...

I changed my crank gear with the crank still in the engine and did not have to use a press.

That was a new crank gear from Dan the Man, purchased as a set with his Bronze timing gear.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I changed my crank gear with the crank still in the engine and did not have to use a press.

That was a new crank gear from Dan the Man, purchased as a set with his Bronze timing gear.

Wish mine were that easy. A few years ago I removed 5 gears from some cranks, and a couple wouldn't even come off using my 20 ton press. I had to heat them with an ox/acc torch and use a puller on a bearing seperator.

[CarlG]

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Maybe I made it sound too easy. Getting the old gear off was done with a gear puller, not sure if I used a 2 or 3 prong puller, just one of my Dad's old pullers. Then getting the new one back on, I dressed the crankshaft smooth with crocus cloth, then heated the new gear (450 degrees for 30 minutes), pressed it on using a socket and the crank nut (which is really a bolt). Engine was out of the car, but the crank was still in the engine.

[tbirdtbird]

Tom W had earlier told me his tale of woe which is why I have not tried it.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by KR500

Herm, One of the align bore fixtures I have is an old Ammco. Lempco also produced one of these. The fixture uses a false camshaft which you install in the A block and it has two equally distanced swing arms which rotate on the false camshaft and lock onto your boring bar in the fixture to establish the cam to crank center line distance. What is your opinion of these fixtures?

If not worn, there is nothing wrong with the Bars or the fixtures, if after you set the fixtures, you check and zero the center distance, or Gear lash.

The things that make a (fixed) center distance not work are, Difference in blocks, wear in cam holes, and a large difference in cam gears and main bolt holes, as they are NOT all the same.

You can get exact center distance, and gear mesh using a Dial.

I lock the cam and what ever gears I use, and leave what ever crank gear loose, and check at 4 points.

They will all be different.

In the case of Dan's gears, he wants .005 at the largest, so that is where I set his at.

A cast gear and fiber has a different setting, and so on, with all the other kinds of gears that I try not to use.

This I use to get an exact setting for a cast crank gear and a fiber cam gear.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

This is the set up I use for Dan's Gears, and others. They always are set for what you wanted.

[tbirdtbird]

good pix Herm and thanks for the input

[Mike V. Florida]

Thanks for the pictures!