Where to cut sa floor pan

[1930artdeco]

Ok two questions:


So I am starting to cut the cancer out of the floors in my 57 wagon. Am I correct in assuming I don't want to cut through the three 'depressions' or ribs and then try to match them up to the new pan? So I have a blue line drawn behind the ribs, should I cut along this line?


Second question is how do I cut the floor pan out and save the heat shield that goes over the muffler?


Thanks,


Mike

[Daves55Sedan]

As I recall, when I did my floors, I started underneath by drilling out the resistance welds that held the underfloor structural support channel to the floor (thats where those two recessed body-mount bolt-holes are). Then you go up and cut the floor pan using an abraisive disk where the channel flange meets the floor, so you don't cut into that structural support channel. The rest of it can be easily cut using a jigsaw with metal cutting blade.
I ditched my muffler insulating panel underneath but boy was that a mistake. Floor gets hotter than 4th of July in the summer.
But you can salvage the muffler isolating pan by drilling out the resistance welds, then spot weld it back on to the new floor panel once it is installed.

[51504bat]

Make sure you cross brace the body before cutting out the floor/toe board. The body braces might need replacing as well.

[1930artdeco]

Fortunately, I am doing just the driver side for now, so the body stays rigid-I hope. I am hoping the body braces are still good, a little dented up from the PO going 4 wheeling in her. So far the floor is so rusted that the heat shield just popped off on the front side.

Mike

[frank long island]

do you have a replacement floor pan if so dont remember if the recess s were in mine you should measure the floor pan you are replacing transfer to the new cut the old one out smaller then your measurements and over cut replacement by 1/2 to 3/4 on the outside of your measurements them you can lay the replacement in the hole using the body bolt as your guide square it up and scribe /trim to fit as for cutting remove the big pieces cutting around braces those pieces will be drilled as described in above post use jig saw sawsall wiz wheel plazma what ever you have not a bad job when you deconstruct it reverse of how it was assembled just look underneth before cutting use weld thru primer before assembly you got this

[Gene F]

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I see projects like this on TV. I always think I have the patience to do that if I only could get the hang of welding. A guy in my Model-A club, his son and he have redone several Mustangs, and made a TON of money. He says every one of them started with a complete floor, and usually rockers. The made close to $65,000 on one that was a 69, and they took it to Chicago to go into a shipping container for the buyer. It was bound for Europe.

[1930artdeco]

Yep, slowly making progress, only might have goofed one or two things. I cut the pan where the front body mount is and might have gone into that a bit. Nothing that should not be able to be fixed. And I was little too excited about pan replacement and forgot to do a final leveling of the car. so hopefully that won't make a difference.

[poolplayer1]

Looks like the rocker panels will have to be replaced too. I had a welder here in town put in new floor boards and also the rockers. He did a really nice job on the welding. I myself am learning how to Mig Weld so I can do stuff like this. Once I know the welds are not breaking off, I want to build a Rolling Gate for my back yard so I can easly drive my wagon in. Right now I have a 12 ft double gate but they are a pain in the S, especially when its windy. OH, He also replaced the back area where the spare tire, baggage area are.

[evintho]

Looks like your toeboard, floorpan and sill plate will have to be replaced. Remember, you'll need good metal to weld to. If the top is rusty/rotted, I surmise your inner and outer rockers underneath are toast too! How's the pass side look?
On my '54, I made my own panels. I had basically the same amount of rust/rot as you have..........

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/hamb/attach/jpg.gif

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attachment.php?
attachmentid=530058&stc=1&d=1699726975

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/hamb/attach/jpg.gif

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/hamb/attach/jpg.gif

[1930artdeco]

Evintho/Poolplayer1, as far as I can tell the out rockers are fine. That being said, I am not sure how to tell. They still solid and there is no cancer that I can see. Eveintho, looking at your 2nd pic, it looks like you just cut the top off and replaced that part of the rocker-is that correct? I will clean them up a bit more and post some pics.

[1930artdeco]

Ok, cut and peeled the pan back and need some clarification-probably more a definition so I am talking about the same thing you all are:

1) Outer rocker-appears solid other than the pitting on top. If people think I should replace this whole rocker, that will be a job for me with some major supervision or I will pay someone to get it done correctly. As that means bracing up the body.

2) what is left of the left edge of the floor pan-will get removed eventually and replaced.

3) Inner rocker that the floor pan is spot welded to. Although the floor is so rusted I can’t see the spot welds. I am assuming I should replace this piece as long as I am in this far. Where does it attach to the body-under #2?

4) here is a picture of the underside oft new EMS floor pan. If I replace the inner rocker I assume I weld that new rocker in and then the floor pan? That means welding from underneath. That will be a new experience for me. Fortunately, my mig welder comes with a spot welding attachment.

Thank you,

Mike

[evintho]

#1 is your sill plate, #2 is the top lip of your inner rocker and #3 is your body brace. I assume '57's are pretty close structurally to '54's.
Yes, I cut out my sill plate and replaced the top section. Your's looks pretty bad. I would replace it. When I removed my sill plate, I had total access to the inside of the inner and outer rockers. I cleaned them up and coated the inside with POR-15.....

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1699750294

You need to crawl underneath to check your inner rockers. One place that's notoriously bad is where the body braces attach. Dirt/moisture build up on the inside of the braces, rot through the braces and into the inner rockers.
Here's the inside of my drivers side inner rocker after I removed the body brace.........

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1699750630

I cut it out and patched it......

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1699750718

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1699751055

I had to make that repair on both sides of the car.

[1930artdeco]

Ouch! I still have to find/cut off the last of the pan and then I am going to blast the area and see what I have. Thank you for the info and pics. Now I at least have something to look for and compare against.

[1930artdeco]

So, the rust all seems to be surface for now. Next step is grind everything smooth and then blast and reevaluate.