41 Ford Distriburator (11A) with remote coil adapter plate

[Veeder]

I pulled apart my 41 for distributor - had trouble after the engine would run for 10 15 mins wouldn't beable to start it again until it cooled.
Discovered points burned (not real bad but burned) with one of them with what appeared to be a weld splatter on it. Anyways here is the question if you look closely at the part of the coil adapter that sits inside the distributor you can see where the bakelite material is all full of fine cracks and it appears to be primarly in the area that is closets to the rotor contacts as it rotates. My question is this the result of the an arc jumping to the rotor ?? And then it was time for a beer :-)

[ken ct]

You could have a crack in the rotor and spark is jumping from the main shaft through the crack in the rotor to the adaptor. Buy a new rotor and adaptor plate or convert it back to proper coil setup. ken ct.

[Veeder]

I have done that once already ( and had poor performance from the after market coil - have they gotten better in the last couple of years. I have rebuilt the distriburator (new point coil ,coil adapter plate this is more wanting to understand what could cause this to crack if that is in fact what it did and these are just the spark jumping all over the place

[ken ct]

After market coils are just a waste of $$. Get a script coil rebuilt in Fl. and a new rotor. Did you gap points with the adaptor screwed in place,that is a must do even with a coil setup.Those adaptor setups arnt the greatest either! ken ct. Only you know how good of a job you did on the rebuild of the dist?? ken ct.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Well I'll add a couple of guestions. The pic are kind of blurry so it don't show us much. Are you running 6 or 12 volt? Have you checked the voltage to the coil? Are you useing the correct resister? I don't see the carbon brush on the end of the adapter that rides on the center of the rotor. The answer to these guestions will help. Walt

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

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Typically the carbon button isnt properly seated to the rotor and causes a arc. The arcing creates heat and starts the break down of the adapter.
Couple this with the fact that many adapters are on the market and only a few are very good at all.

What condition is your present carbon button ????

I agree with Walt these are issues that will cause your problem...

[Veeder]

I have a new adaptor plate and a new coil. Have not reinstalled the distriburator yet. The existing coil adaptor has been in use for about 4-5 years without issue and the carbon and spring was intact and making good contact. I also have new caps for the side of the distriburator which I have a few concerns about the fit between the rotor and the contacts. I needed to file them down a bit for clearence, currently as the rotor rotates it touches the contacts which i believe is a good fit and they will break in quickly I assume..

I'm using a 6 volt sytems BUT!! I have a relay wired to the starter button which bypasses the ignition wire ONLY when the starter is cranking this made a huge difference in the car starting up as you get about 1 volt extra to the coil for starting purposes. A very slick and easy modification in my opinion

[ken ct]

Anything from .005 to .015 is ok clearance is good. ken ct.

[Veeder]

thank u - don't have that currently (005 to .015) but will do it tonight - very helpful!

[Veeder]

One more question for the group

Short term I intend to use the coil adapter plater is it worth putting some heat shrink tubing (insulation) on the stem of the coil adapter plate inside of the distribuator as added insulation?

[ken ct]

The heat shrink tubeing would be better put to use around the dist main shaft under the rotor as per BUBBA's suggestion. Good tip. ken ct.

[Veeder]

OH !!! so the rotor (in some cases) shorts out to the shaft when it heats up???? Never thought that could happen

[Slick Steve]

Have you checked the condensor?

[Veeder]

Yes and it was fine so opted to just rebuild the whole dist.
thank u