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10-26-2023, 06:18 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 227
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engine vibration part 2
After getting replies about my engine vibration, I checked the rubber insulators between the frame and the rear mount. Looks like both sides are non existent. Worn away by years of driving.
Will I need a frame spreader to replace these? If so, I am mechanical enough (retired engineer) to build one. Is there any info on using the Float-A-Motor mounts? Last edited by oldspert; 10-26-2023 at 06:24 PM. |
10-26-2023, 07:54 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Axtell Texas
Posts: 73
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Re: engine vibration part 2
I replaced mine using a porta power between the bellhousing & frame rails one side at a time. The frame doesn't have to be spread very much at all. I still have vibration when I get over 45mph. When I get on the highway I add timing & lean out the gav & it runs smooth but starts vibrating at 45mph. Can go 44mph with no vibration. I think they all do that from other owners that I have talked to.
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10-26-2023, 08:53 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Danvers, Ma.
Posts: 712
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Re: engine vibration part 2
A small bottle jack and a chunk of wood will do it too. The vibration could be normal if it's small, otherwise a bent or sagging frame might set up a vibration. The sag can twist the whole running gear out of alignment a bit to vibrate at some speeds.
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10-26-2023, 09:11 PM | #4 | |
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Join Date: May 2023
Posts: 146
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Re: engine vibration part 2
Quote:
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10-26-2023, 10:01 PM | #5 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Axtell Texas
Posts: 73
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Re: engine vibration part 2
Mine must have a lower rear end ratio than yours. I checked my u joints & they are tight. Been planning on removing the oil pan & checking bearing clearances. Hopefully it has some shims & if the bearings are too loose I can remove some shims. I've been trying to find a good rebuildable motor & also looking for someone in my area or kinda close that does babbit. Haven't had any luck on either. So I just keep driving & enjoying it , just stay under 45 mph.LOL I live close to Waco & once i get there 45 mph is fast enough to get around anywhere in Waco. I live in the country & have a path on backroads to get to waco witout getting on the highways.
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10-26-2023, 11:03 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 227
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Re: engine vibration part 2
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When I bought that car I had to re-ring it and it had already been bored .080 so it ran very well. |
10-27-2023, 05:03 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 3,903
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Re: engine vibration part 2
Use of the Float-A-Motor is controversial. There is a contention that the rear of the engine forms another cross link for the frame and that the Float-A-Motor removes that link. The Float-A-Motor was probably a solution to worn out or non-functioning original rubber isolation pads in the back. Even with the Float-A-Motor mounts the rubber at the frame rails should be replaced.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
10-27-2023, 02:48 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 227
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Re: engine vibration part 2
Agree that the cross link would be eliminated but would that be a problem since most of the A's on the road today will never see any hard bumpy roads that would twist the frame. I know mine will never see more than maybe a hundred mile tour on modern roads.
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10-27-2023, 03:03 PM | #9 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 32
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Re: engine vibration part 2
I went from a squished front and rear float motor back to stock and found I had significantly less vibration. The old floater pucks were crushed about 1/2 way and rock hard. The stock mount has rubber between the bracket and frame as the insulation, and the bolts shouldn't be cranked tight. I had a hard time finding rear mounts without cracks, eventually welded a cracked pair. The original front mount is already essentially a floater. Stock makes an engine swap a little more difficult, but how often should one do that?
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10-27-2023, 03:15 PM | #10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 227
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Re: engine vibration part 2
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10-27-2023, 06:33 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 32
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Re: engine vibration part 2
Couldn't tell you. Inherited it that way. If I had to guess, as old as the restoration, 30 ish years.
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10-27-2023, 10:37 PM | #12 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13
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Re: engine vibration part 2
This discussion got me thinking. I replaced my original rear motor mount rubber pads when restoring the car in 1980 and I haven't given them a thought since. Should the rubber pads be replaced every few years to minimize vibrations between the engine and frame?
Gary |
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