The Ford Barn

stude333 · 02-15-2024, 02:08 AM

Hey guys, my 34 pickup w/37 motor sat for 2 years. yesterday I looked in the radiator ( water only) but it was empty. checked oil...and it is 2" high with some white foam. so now I am looking to diagnose and how to proceed. I checked my compression readings old docment and see all cylinders were 110 psi except 3/4 were 100 and 105. also I am thinking if one side is not leaking it should still be holding water in the top hose.
I have not checked if it is stuck yet. but assume if water is running down one cylinder for 2 years it would be stuck. So I am looking for any reccomendations on what to do next. should I do any tests with more water to see where it is leaking? when it last ran I was having carb/ign issues but there seemed to be a lot of white smoke. what would the plug on a leaking cylinder look like( burn any different. I cold get a cheap borescope and put water in radiator for research.?
In my dream world I could get it unstuck and just redo the one head gasket. once the head is off it is pretty hard to do any kind of deeper tests. my mind goes to a cracked block of course. this is where diagnostics now might help.
So Then what is the best approach to get unstuck. I am thinking what to put in the cylinder to dissolve the rust. then work the crank from the front nut. I am thinking just redo the one side. I cant afford a total rebuild. please advise your thoughts

Ggmac · 02-15-2024, 05:21 AM

Very likely the 4 core plugs on the oil pan rail . Easy to replace IF you can remove the oil pan . Of course I’m assuming it didnt freeze .

stude333 · 02-15-2024, 08:24 AM

What are the core plugs on the oil pan rail? Could you explain. I have read on old post something about " Oil pan rail" I was thinking it was rotting through from rust. I had an AB the had 2" hole rotted through there. threw it away. appreciate help

Ggmac · 02-15-2024, 02:10 PM

Up until 1941 ( aprx ) there are 4 small core plugs , think small freeze plugs , on the bottom block / oil pan rail . They usually rust out and can leak water into the crankcase , sometimes the oil pan and gasket will cover the rusted plug and not leak till the pan comes off . I just replaced 8 plugs , 4 on my spare engine and 4 on a friends . I don’t know how to post pictures but can email you some pics or you can google it .
Gary

Kube · 02-15-2024, 04:08 PM

Here's a photo depicting the plugs.

Bored&Stroked · 02-15-2024, 04:37 PM

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It you saw a lot of white smoke the last time you ran it . . . you were probably getting water into a cylinder at that time. When you pull a plug for a cylinder that was ran with water coming into it, the plug insulator will look all "washed down" . . . with very little or no carbon on it.

I'd pull the plugs and check them first - to see if you see a cylinder with an issue. I'd also see if you can turn the engine over with a breaker bar - just to see if it is stuck or not.

Hopefully you don't have rusted cylinders - but with the white smoke, highly likely.

If the engine is not stuck, then the next course of action is to pull the head on the side with the "washed down" plugs (if you can tell) . . . to see if the cylinder/valves are all rusted. Also, you can wire-brush the transfer area to see if there are any obvious cracks.

You have some sleuthing to do at the moment . . . hopefully it is not a cracked block.

Best of luck!
B&S

Bored&Stroked · 02-15-2024, 04:40 PM

Note: If one or more cylinders are heavily rusted, then just unsticking it might not be anywhere close to an optimal solution. You may be able to get it unstuck and clean the rust out, but if the cylinder walls are pitted it will most likely lose some compression and smoke a bit (as oil will be getting into that cylinder). We really can't advise as to what to do until you get further into it.

snappydon · 02-15-2024, 07:51 PM

My ‘37 had the same problem after sitting for over 2 years.

It was the core plugs in the pan rail.

Was told by a local old timer to use pre WWII copper wheat pennies as replacements, he said that’s what they did back in the day. Never corrode. They're the same 3/4” diameter as the originals.

So I found 4 prewar pennies, cleaned the block recess really well, and put a bit of Ultra Black around each one, tapped them in flush and reassembled.

Works great! Make sure you flush all the contaminated oil out as much as possible.

02-15-2024, 02:08 AM	#1
stude333 Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Bernardino Posts: 50	Water in oil after sat 2 years Hey guys, my 34 pickup w/37 motor sat for 2 years. yesterday I looked in the radiator ( water only) but it was empty. checked oil...and it is 2" high with some white foam. so now I am looking to diagnose and how to proceed. I checked my compression readings old docment and see all cylinders were 110 psi except 3/4 were 100 and 105. also I am thinking if one side is not leaking it should still be holding water in the top hose. I have not checked if it is stuck yet. but assume if water is running down one cylinder for 2 years it would be stuck. So I am looking for any reccomendations on what to do next. should I do any tests with more water to see where it is leaking? when it last ran I was having carb/ign issues but there seemed to be a lot of white smoke. what would the plug on a leaking cylinder look like( burn any different. I cold get a cheap borescope and put water in radiator for research.? In my dream world I could get it unstuck and just redo the one head gasket. once the head is off it is pretty hard to do any kind of deeper tests. my mind goes to a cracked block of course. this is where diagnostics now might help. So Then what is the best approach to get unstuck. I am thinking what to put in the cylinder to dissolve the rust. then work the crank from the front nut. I am thinking just redo the one side. I cant afford a total rebuild. please advise your thoughts

02-15-2024, 05:21 AM	#2
Ggmac Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Lake worth Florida Posts: 1,104	Re: Water in oil after sat 2 years Very likely the 4 core plugs on the oil pan rail . Easy to replace IF you can remove the oil pan . Of course I’m assuming it didnt freeze .

02-15-2024, 08:24 AM	#3
stude333 Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Bernardino Posts: 50	Re: Water in oil after sat 2 years What are the core plugs on the oil pan rail? Could you explain. I have read on old post something about " Oil pan rail" I was thinking it was rotting through from rust. I had an AB the had 2" hole rotted through there. threw it away. appreciate help

02-15-2024, 02:10 PM	#4
Ggmac Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Lake worth Florida Posts: 1,104	Re: Water in oil after sat 2 years Up until 1941 ( aprx ) there are 4 small core plugs , think small freeze plugs , on the bottom block / oil pan rail . They usually rust out and can leak water into the crankcase , sometimes the oil pan and gasket will cover the rusted plug and not leak till the pan comes off . I just replaced 8 plugs , 4 on my spare engine and 4 on a friends . I don’t know how to post pictures but can email you some pics or you can google it . Gary

02-15-2024, 04:37 PM	#6
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,073	Re: Water in oil after sat 2 years Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) It you saw a lot of white smoke the last time you ran it . . . you were probably getting water into a cylinder at that time. When you pull a plug for a cylinder that was ran with water coming into it, the plug insulator will look all "washed down" . . . with very little or no carbon on it. I'd pull the plugs and check them first - to see if you see a cylinder with an issue. I'd also see if you can turn the engine over with a breaker bar - just to see if it is stuck or not. Hopefully you don't have rusted cylinders - but with the white smoke, highly likely. If the engine is not stuck, then the next course of action is to pull the head on the side with the "washed down" plugs (if you can tell) . . . to see if the cylinder/valves are all rusted. Also, you can wire-brush the transfer area to see if there are any obvious cracks. You have some sleuthing to do at the moment . . . hopefully it is not a cracked block. Best of luck! B&S

02-15-2024, 04:40 PM	#7
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,073	Re: Water in oil after sat 2 years Note: If one or more cylinders are heavily rusted, then just unsticking it might not be anywhere close to an optimal solution. You may be able to get it unstuck and clean the rust out, but if the cylinder walls are pitted it will most likely lose some compression and smoke a bit (as oil will be getting into that cylinder). We really can't advise as to what to do until you get further into it.

02-15-2024, 07:51 PM	#8
snappydon Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Hoodsport WA Posts: 150	Re: Water in oil after sat 2 years My ‘37 had the same problem after sitting for over 2 years. It was the core plugs in the pan rail. Was told by a local old timer to use pre WWII copper wheat pennies as replacements, he said that’s what they did back in the day. Never corrode. They're the same 3/4” diameter as the originals. So I found 4 prewar pennies, cleaned the block recess really well, and put a bit of Ultra Black around each one, tapped them in flush and reassembled. Works great! Make sure you flush all the contaminated oil out as much as possible.