which water pump?

[GB SISSON]

When I bought my '28 AA last month, I was able to get a bunch of spare parts with it. I plan on pulling the radiator this week for a major flush and while it's out, I may replace the water pump. The nut on mine is missing a few teeth and it leaks and to make it worse, it seems the nut is cross threaded. I have these two pumps which look aftermarket. Neither uses packing. The one that is apart was in an old snyder's box, but seems to have been mounted and used. Is the 'apart' one missing anything? This AA will never be judged, so original not too important.

[redmodelt]

If it were me and if the one you took off the truck is an original pump, I would buy the parts and rebuild it. Good chances the shaft is scored and worn out along with the bushings and bearings in all three. The original pump, you can get parts quickly for it, not so much the the two aftermarket ones. The new shaft would be stainless steel and should last longer just sitting with water in the system.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/modelaparts/waterpump

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with redmodelt. I've seen these two aftermarket pumps, but have no experience with them. I do have good experience with my original pump rebuilt exactly as Ford built it and it has been completely leakless for over 10 years.

If you need a new shaft, you might like to buy the stainless shaft with the impeller already pinned in place. Also make sure the new lead packing rings have lots of grease smeared on them when you install them in the adjustment nut.

[GB SISSON]

Thanks. Do you cut the packing into rings or wrap it around like string? And if so, in what direction? (North of the equator)

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Thanks. Do you cut the packing into rings or wrap it around like string? And if so, in what direction? (North of the equator)

You can buy the lead packing rings as a full circle or as split rings. Split rings can be installed by just removing the nut, but the shaft must come out to install the full circle rings. I don't recall which ones I used, but they both work fine, as long as they are well grease during installation.

I snugged the nut a few times while the engine was running, after I first rebuilt the pump, and only checked the nut a couple times in the next ten years.

[Bruce,Upstate NY]

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Sisson, you can wrap the string around a number of times until you can just get the nut started. Don't tighten it more than just enough to stop a drip. On a new shaft it will last a long time. Easier than fixing a dripping modern seal!

[Tom Wesenberg]

String isn't recommended for fast turning shafts, as it will wear a groove in the shaft. I've seen this problem, but never when the correct lead packing rings are used.

The graphite string is for water faucets, where it only turns a little.

[JOES31]

I had my pump start leaking. I went to purchase a rebuild kit and it was $50.00. New leak less is $ 125.00 and I don't have to rebuild. Bought the greaseless from Snyder's. Works perfect, looks original and doesn't leak. I would remove your studs and replace them with the bolts that look like studs. It will make it easier for you in case you have to remove the pump again. You won't have to remove your radiator.

[GB SISSON]

I noticed that on the snyders website. 75.00 difference. I'm in the middle of a huge project with the restoration of my '47 ford 2 ton, and the AA came up unexpectedly when the family that had it in a shed returned to the island for a visit. I feel I need to fix the AA's cooling problem and thought this the best time to swap out the water pump. Summertime is busy for me so not sure I need a big project right now. I like the idea of bolts instead of studs. I thought I was being clever cutting the last 1/2" off the pump shaft to install the one that's on there. Then when I later swapped heads, I saw that there is a thrust bearing cast into there. Maybe another reason mine leaks.....

[RonC]

Leakless is the way to go.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I noticed that on the snyders website. 75.00 difference. I'm in the middle of a huge project with the restoration of my '47 ford 2 ton, and the AA came up unexpectedly when the family that had it in a shed returned to the island for a visit. I feel I need to fix the AA's cooling problem and thought this the best time to swap out the water pump. Summertime is busy for me so not sure I need a big project right now. I like the idea of bolts instead of studs. I thought I was being clever cutting the last 1/2" off the pump shaft to install the one that's on there. Then when I later swapped heads, I saw that there is a thrust bearing cast into there. Maybe another reason mine leaks.....

There is a part that one uses instead of relying on the boss in the head.

[gtovet49]

What is the proper way to install this locking collar? What position on the shaft and how much movement? Using a packless pump?

[redmodelt]

The locking collar goes between the fan and pump body the washer goes between the collar and pump. I put them on so little or no movement back and forth in the shaft but not tight or binding when the shaft is turned.

[Jerry in Shasta]

I have one of the after market on my car, works great.
Got bearings at a local bearing store and a new seal at a
pump repair shop that does swimming pool pumps.

If you want to sell the after market pump give me a
price. Maybe we can make a deal.

JB

[nickair]

Just replaced my water pump yesterday. I used blue silicone sealant for the gasket/bolt holes and anti-seize on the threads. I used bolts this time. They make look alike stud/nut units to keep original look, which are actually bolts. It is an easy 1-2 hour job including clean up. I applied penetrating oil on the water pump studs the day before the job.

Did a shake down cruise and ran great with all A-OK.

Then took Bonnie to a car show we parked in. Still A-OK.

Home from the car show. Still A-OK and looks great today.

No leaks. I used the pump below. Looks Factory correct with lube fittings and packing nut which are only for looks.

"Extreme Duty Leakless Water Pump" 5 year warranty! (www.leaklessapumps.com) Jim is a great guy to work with. Call him with any questions. He talked with me for awhile. I am very satisfied.
I think it is the best leakless water pump available and it uses sealed bearings for both front AND rear. There is two sealed bearing on the front to handle the added pressures of turning an alternator vs. generator. The pulley on an alternator is smaller creating more stress on the front bearing of the water pump. If planning on an alternator this is the pump to have.

[1930artdeco]

Tom,

The graphite rings are supposed to be greased? If so what kind and how heavily?

Mike

[Bob Bidonde]

After trying about everything on the market to rebuild water pumps, I conclude that the best setups are those with the modern press-fit front bearing, and bronze rear bushing with o-ring seals. By pain I learned that the shaft locking collar does not work well, and putting a plastic washer between the collar and pump body is not good.

The press-fit front bearing can be the a needle type of ball type. Both work very well.

[1wonton]

I've been running the leakless pump on my two model a's for years, they are by far the best to use.