Part 2: KD 918 tool 0, guides 1. Another way to get the guides out?

[Yoyodyne]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I have both the KD 917 & All Power clip tools. This was the first time using the All Power tool and I like it better than the KD.


I'll prod and scrape the water jackets at home and then I'll need to get the block cleaned the cheapest way first (high pressure wash) before pressure testing it.

Do you have a picture of the all power clip tool?


I do the initial cleaning in a poly barrel of washing soda, with a tractor supply bucket heater in it for heat. Does an amazing job, my machine shop guy really appreciates me doing it. We call it the magic bucket here for cleaning horrible stuff that you don't want to handle. Even in cold weather it cleans a block in a day or two. I put the heater on a time clock to keep it from boiling the water away. When ready, all you need is a hose, not high pressure which is a plus in cold weather.


I use a product called TASC, but the primary ingredient is washing soda with surfactants and etc to make it more expensive. 4 oz per gallon. I'll detail how I clean the water jacket deposits with Ospho if you are interested.

[3twinridges]

Originally Posted by Yoyodyne

Do you have a picture of the all power clip tool?


I do the initial cleaning in a poly barrel of washing soda, with a tractor supply bucket heater in it for heat. Does an amazing job, my machine shop guy really appreciates me doing it. We call it the magic bucket here for cleaning horrible stuff that you don't want to handle. Even in cold weather it cleans a block in a day or two. I put the heater on a time clock to keep it from boiling the water away. When ready, all you need is a hose, not high pressure which is a plus in cold weather.


I use a product called TASC, but the primary ingredient is washing soda with surfactants and etc to make it more expensive. 4 oz per gallon. I'll detail how I clean the water jacket deposits with Ospho if you are interested.

Yes, interested

[Bored&Stroked]

Yes, I'm interested as I have to do some rusty blocks next Spring

[switchman]

i'm intersted incleaning the water passages.

[Yoyodyne]

I found the photos.


Here's what the block looks like coming out of the TASC (washing soda) bath. I'm tempted to do that before disassembling the valves and guides next time. I don't see that it can cause any damage doing it that way as long as I don't let it all rust together somehow afterward. I'd prop the valves open so the ports can drain when lifted out and to prevent air pockets from keeping the solution from filling the ports. The solution is a bit high PH which is what causes the light rusting you see. The TASC does clean a lot of the crud out of the water jackets to start.




I cleaned the block and a pair of heads at the same time, so the head became the block off plate. I made a rubber gasket, 1/8" IIRC, and held them together with 3 bolts.



Cleaning underway, 3 gallons of Ospho on the floor. These engines hold a lot of water. This is messy as hell, the Ospho is largely Phosphoric acid, leaves a phosphate mess on everything. I did it in an open doorway where I could wash it down afterward.

















It bubbles and burps while working and makes a mess. I tried laying plates over the openings to contain it a little, it helped a little.

[Yoyodyne]

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Before and after. The before is after the TASC cleaning, and looks WAY better than before any cleaning. I did clean out the jackets with long screwdrivers and pressure washing to get all the debris and sand out before this process.All that was left was rust and water scale. I left the Ospho in for 6 hours before flushing it out, I see some deposits left in the flash photos that I didn't see with my naked eyes, next time I'll leave it longer.

[Yoyodyne]

I wanted to be sure to kill any rust left in the water jackets(chloride ions in the pits and all that), and also wanted to clean the exterior of the block so to finish the job I dunked it in EvapoRust. Actually I used Esprit Rust Remover - It works the same way as EvapoRust but it's a concentrate you mix 10-1 so it's cheaper to buy and more economical to ship. I mixed it up in a 33 gallon garbage can and dunked the block in. I had to flip it to get both ends completely.













Ospho is a pre-paint treatment for outdoor painting, I get it at locally Ace Hardware. When they were out I tried some concrete cleaner that contained phosphoric acid, it din't work as well and left more of a mess.


Since I did this block, I cleaned the engine in my Model T with Ospho. I did it in the car, I made up plumbing from PVC pipes to fill and drain the complete assembled engine in the car separate from the radiator, filled and flushed it several times. Try as I might, I wound up leaving white residue stains where I didn't want it, don't try this on a nice restoration. In this case it's a 40+ year old restoration that had a chronic heat problem and made it a PITA to drive. Now the heat problem is completely gone. I researched phosphoric acid and copper and brass, seems it's used as a cleaner before soldering, so I did the radiator separately to be sure it was clear of hard water deposits.


I have heated parts washer with Simple Green Crystal(not the green stuff) and a rust inhibitor in it I used to rinse the parts after the Esprit rust remover. Regular hot soapy water should be adequate if you are quick to prevent rusting.

[Cool Kat with Hot Car]

All power knockout & horseshoe pullers

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Cool Kat with Hot Car

All power knockout & horseshoe pullers

Thank you for posting pictures of these two tools. They work well.

[Yoyodyne]

I inserted the photos I uploaded into the text of my posts. They were there yesterday, but not today. What happened?


And +1, thanks for the photos of the all power tools.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Yoyodyne

I inserted the photos I uploaded into the text of my posts. They were there yesterday, but not today. What happened?


And +1, thanks for the photos of the all power tools.

John,

I still see all the picts on my end.

Tim

[21stud]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

I never use the older 5/16 valves anyway, so I've resorted to BRUTE force, and I get a big set of bolt-cutters, wedge the jaws between the springs and cut the stems. You better be in good shape - takes a lot of force.

Also, wear good eye protection - have had things fly all over the place! LOL

It doesn't take that long . . .

I use bolt cutters as well. Fast and simple way. yes, dangerous flying valve pieces!

[Tim Ayers]

Gentlemen:

Well, I have in my possession an extended reach 90 degree 3" whiz wheel and a set of heavy duty bolt cutters. Decided to use the bolt cutters first. Worked great and I got 8 out in about 30 minutes.

This thing is possibly the greasiest flathead I've ever torn down. The valley is just filled with thick viscous black-as-sin sludge. I will need to get this somewhat clean before I pressure test. It may need a trip to a machine shop for a hot bath before I can even trust a pressure test.

Good news: It's standard bore and a truck 99A that has a factory relief. I'm going to go with a "traditional" relief on this one and also "eye brow" the front edge of the valve pockets like Barney Navarro talked about in Frank Otto's flathead book.

I also plan to knife edge the crank like Mike Bishop showed in his porting tutorial.

If it checks out, it will get big valves, big ports and a big bore. I'll keep you posted.

[tubman]

Tim,

It seems that you're really getting into this one. I love the passion. It'll probably turn out fine; all that sludge preserves things and keeps it from cracking.

Denny

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by tubman

Tim,

It seems that you're really getting into this one. I love the passion. It'll probably turn out fine; all that sludge preserves things and keeps it from cracking.

Denny

I hope so. I'm a little concerned about the oil tube in the valley. When I pulled the two oil deflectors (not sure of the Ford part name) they had some large flake rust attached to the clips which I'm assuming came from the tube.

From what I understand, replacing that tube is a real PITA. Hopefully it's all good and that sludge worked its magic.

I'll get the other eight tomorrow. Like B&S said, that is one heck of a work out. I think I'll skip the gym tomorrow.