37 tudor radiator removal

[Mark's 37]

Can someone explain the steps to remove the radiator from my 37. It is going to the Brass Works week after next. I have read through the archived posts but found none specific to the 37. Removing the grill seemed the way to go at first glance but now not so sure. Thanks.

[ford38v8]

Mark, the '37, 38. and 39 Standard radiators are removed in this way:

Drain the radiator.
Remove both hood side panels using extra care to prevent paint damage.
Remove the top radiator hoses.
Tape a cardboard shield to the inside of the radiator to protect fins from damage by the fan.
remove the bottom radiator hoses*
Remove radiator bottom mounts.
Lift out the radiator**

*Bottom radiator hoses are much easier to remove/replace if motor mounts are replaced at the same time. Motor supported by a block on a jack, raise for removal, lower to reinstall.

**If alone, stand inside the bumper. Recommend having a friend help lift it out.

[Mark's 37]

Thanks Alan,

I found similar instructions a few minutes ago in the archives. Looks to me that the hood will have to come off to get enough vertical clearance. Does that need to happen?

[jimTN]

I would go ahead and remove the or gen and fan, would give you a lot more room to work.

[4dy]

I removed mine without taking the side panels off. It probably would have been easier if I had removed the panels especially when it took me over an hour to get the two bottom hoses on. They are so short it was a major pain to get them on each side.

[Mark's 37]

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Is it easier to install the lower hoses on the radiator or the engine before putting it back together?

[ford38v8]

Mark, any job under the hood of a 37-38 is easier with the hood prop disconnected. For working room, I use a broomstick that raises the hood vertical.

Regarding the installation of bottom hoses, refer to my previous post.

[Mark's 37]

After spending the morning listening for the location of a knock the engine has on acceleration, especially in 3rd gear, I think it is the rear main bearing. I tried an electronic stethoscope but it picks up spark noise almost everywhere I probed with it. Finally used a 36" 3/8 drive extension in the ear and could hear the noise at idle at the back of the engine on either side at the bellhousing. Nothing at the timing cover or on the heads. Could hear it with the stethoscope in the oil breather. Fuel pump is relatively quiet. Since the radiator is coming out the decision is made to remove the engine and have a look inside. So the lower radiator hoses won't be an issue for now. It runs so good now and I am not one to go looking for trouble but once the main and rod caps are off things will be a little clearer. Not looking forward to broken head studs, etc. but need to look it all over. Getting the hood up to vertical with out removing it would be nice. Any tricks or tips for removing the engine? I watched this video but I won't be removing the front clip or the grille if I can help it. Have the same cherry picker as those guys.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZ2HuyXBbaU

[jimTN]

engine will come out fine if you pull the waterpumps first. I would pull the hood if it was me.

[Mark's 37]

jimTN, Thanks for the reply. Being a one-man-show here in the garage over the years I look for any advantage to make stuff simpler. Getting the hood off and stored can be tricky but I have honed my cherry picker talents over time. Once the radiator is at The Brass Works getting the engine out will start. At my age it takes a little time to build up the mental steam to get going.

[4dy]

My 37 has the exact same symptoms. I'll be watching your progress.

[ford38v8]

Mark, I would exhaust every means possible to identify the noise while still running in your car. Once you remove the engine and start to dismantle it, you may not be able to correct it if you aren't sure where it came from.


You might follow along on Bassman's thread "Vexing problem".

[Mark's 37]

Alan, I have been following Bassman's thread along with another. Went through it again this morning. Noise is piston speed, doesn't change when shorting the individual plug wires, and seems to be coming from the bottom end near the back of the engine. It is most notable under a load and since this is a stick shift it can't be reasonably loaded in the garage while listening with a stethoscope. I have listened around the fuel pump extensively and can't really hear it there. I did watch the crank pulley and it appears tight, not wobbly. I am a retired Ford mechanic so have at least a minimal ear for engine noise and it has the deeper knock of a main but I have been fooled before. The engine has never been apart as far as I can see and it has at least 75-80k miles as best estimated so the bearings being that old could be tired. As far as rod knock, my experience says no. I would check for this kind of knock by having the engine at operating temp and bring the RPM in neutral up to about 2000 and then vary the RPM a 100 or so up and down listening for the "rap" of a rod. If the rod is the problem it usually shows up that way. With the stethoscope down in the breather I can hear the knock along with all the other valve train noise. Being the fuel pump is right there I checked by listening to it on the outside of the pump body and it is relatively quiet. Could be piston slap on an individual cylinder but you would think I could pick it up by shorting the plugs and/or listening to the area on the head over each cylinder. Under moderate acceleration in 3rd gear from about 30 or so MPH it is constant and I can almost "feel" it. A very singular deeper knock. The kind you know is not going to magically go away.

[Mark's 37]

I checked again and with an long screwdriver touching the engine block just in the area of the oil pressure sender and the threaded plug above it is where it is most distinct. The engine has been idling so long doing this it vapor locked so will leave it alone for awhile and concentrate on getting the hood off. If this knock was just at idle I would just ignore it but because it is very distinct under a load I can't.

[jimTN]

I had better add, just to be on the safe side, pull the fuel pump and stand cause you are going to have to tilt that engine to get it out.

[ford38v8]

Mark, I'll say again, just disconnect the hood prop and you can lift it straight up vertical. I have two lengths of broomsticks I use, one for regular maintenance and a long one for the serious times.

[Mark's 37]

Alan, the hood is off. It was much lighter than I expected and easily set it up on the roof of the car on blankets. Nice to have it out of the way. My last hood removal/install experience was on the 57 Thunderbird with the reverse opening hood. They are much heavier than they look and very hard to reinstall in the upright position without damaging the paint. Radiator comes out tomorrow and taking it down to Paso Robles on Friday. Thanks.

jimTN, the fuel pump and stand will be taken off. Thanks.

[Mark's 37]

I found this Youtube video of a flathead with a knock today. Not sure if it is someone from the FordBarn. This is the kind of knock I have, not nearly as loud but the same speed and sound quality.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSho1LFlcpA