Does this battery cable look ok to you?

[dumb person]

So i am told i should use all original parts but they are quite tired parts.
Please see the pictures i will try to attach & tell me if this battery cable is good or if there is a way to re-use the outer armour shield on a new cable. The clamp does not look that great to me either but i lack a huge soldering iron to change it.

Also, the cutout sticks closed sometimes (reproduction) and i was wondering if that was caused by a short in what i suspect is the brake light switch or an issue in its own? The generator side earths to ground with 017.7 Ohms of resistance (normal for the fine winding?) if my ultra cheap DMM is to be believed.
Another thing, can the brake light switch be taken apart or should i merely clean it and insulate it from ground?
(And how to you achieve a "straight pull" on the switch when it is on the frame but the brake pedal is on the gear box, not a straight line pull but one with angles that puts weird strains upon the rod inside, causing binding. This car is RHD & appears to be a factory mixture of parts from an E28 in the brakes from new. Not that i know alot about them or anything.)

[Steve Wastler]

Interesting cable, never seen one like that. It appears to be homemade, with a piece of electrical bx casing. Get a new one from Brattons, battery cables are not where you want to 'make do'.

[Clem Clement]

The original cable went from the battery to the frame cross member next to the battery. There should be a bolt hole there for the short ground strap. That was fine when the frame was new and clean. The frame is riveted and no telling what is built up between frame parts and the body and power train. I(WE) recommend an addition strap or cable from the cross frame to a bolt on the power train( I use a bolt location like yours.)

[Russ/40]

Trash it and the armor, not original by the way. Buy a nice repo from A&L and it will outlast you. Totally original in appearance from what I have seen. As close as it gets anyway. Battery cables are not one of those things you restore.

[larrys40]

Dumb Person,

The cable should be replaced. I see you have an early '28 starter switch... with Phillips screws. Have to fix those!! The generator cutout between disconnected from the generator should be about 47-49 ohms between ground and the generator side of the cutout.
If less it's probably a poor repro.
The battery cable can't be helping you any.. change it out.
Happy winter Model A motoring.
Larry S.

Larry

[ctlikon0712]

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Since you are in the south pacific, I would go to a local truck and tractor parts store and buy a large gauge cable of the appropriate length if your car is still 6 V. It all depends on how concerned you are with authenticity.
I really enjoyed those videos you posted a while back on roadside repairs down under.

[dumb person]

Originally Posted by ctlikon0712

I really enjoyed those videos you posted a while back on roadside repairs down under.

If you have time & bandwidth to spare search youtube for episodes of "bush mechanics", there are still a few full episodes on there.

[dumb person]

Originally Posted by larrys40

Dumb Person,

The cable should be replaced. I see you have an early '28 starter switch... with Phillips screws. Have to fix those!! The generator cutout between disconnected from the generator should be about 47-49 ohms between ground and the generator side of the cutout.
If less it's probably a poor repro.
The battery cable can't be helping you any.. change it out.
Happy winter Model A motoring.
Larry S.

Larry

Made in japan repo'! From japan so it must be good-ish. The japanese are fairly good at electronics (their domestic market stuff we never saw used to be awesome & good quality too).

[ken ct]

God, change out that cable, their not that expensive get a heavy gauge one. ken ct usa Not a 12 V one.