F1 Front drive shaft yoke

[Ross F-1]

Here's a pic that should clarify... plenty of shaft there

[B_man_Al]

Ross .... After all of this, I'm coming to the conclusion that its the way Henry wanted it. Ross from your picture, the visible length of spline should be 3.35 or so. I confirmed by taking off the drive shaft and then inserting a fine long screwdriver into the end until it hit the C clip. The distance was 3 3/8.

When the mount is installed on the back, there is only 1 " of shaft visible . So from the time the yoke meets the seal, there is only another 2 .3 left before it bottoms. It seems then that my yoke must be longer than yours or an original.

Based on this I get a nominal overlap between the yoke and the output shaft of about 2.25, going up to 3.25 if it bottoms.

At the other extreme, if the yoke moves out by .75”, there will still be about 1.5” of engagement, but will be very close to coming out of the seal . Don’t like it but the only way to correct is to reduce the slip allowance

The yoke moves inwards on acceleration, and outwards on deceleration, or in reverse.

[Ross F-1]

I can't really measure now, but here's what mine looks like assembled. Looks a little more than an inch, not much tho.

[B_man_Al]

Ross ..... Yes it is over an inch. I just noticed my 1 in measurement is because my rear seal is not fully bottomed! See my pic on this thread . Guess I forgot to replace it with a new one when I did the rebuild and just left the old one in there loose. Dam .... this makes it even worse for the possibility of it coming out on deceleration!!!!

[Ross F-1]

There is a different seal, from a C4 maybe? that has a rubber boot over the exposed part of the splines, and a flange that sets it right at the back of the housing, that can be used. A friend got it based on measurements at a Carquest shop, but he doesn't have the number. I think I will try to find it next time I need one. Not sure it would help you as the actual seal is still about flush with the face of the housing.

[RMR&C]

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Hi Ross, that was me that used the Powerglide yoke. I used it to take up the slack from the 9" install. Seemed to work fine with no vibes till I put the T-5 in. Pic below of PG and stock yokes...

[B_man_Al]

RMR&C .... You wouldn't happen to have any measurements of these 2 yoke lengths?

I think I can come pretty close from the pics, assuming the joints are 1310's. A 1310 yoke measures about 3 1/2 OS to OS, and 2 3/8 IS-IS in width at the joint.

[Ross F-1]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-u1661

Not sure if this is the exact one.

[RMR&C]

Originally Posted by B_man_Al

RMR&C .... You wouldn't happen to have any measurements of these 2 yoke lengths?

I think I can come pretty close from the pics, assuming the joints are 1310's. A 1310 yoke measures about 3 1/2 OS to OS, and 2 3/8 IS-IS in width at the joint.

Pretty sure the PG yoke required a conversion u-joint, inside clips on it? Will have to check.

[RMR&C]

Originally Posted by Ross F-1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-u1661

Not sure if this is the exact one.

I think that would work, has the right U-joint too...

[Ross F-1]

I'd want to check the OD and spline count, there are a couple of flavors of PG output shafts.

[B_man_Al]

That one is spec'd at 27 splines ... need 16?

[Ross F-1]

This should tell you everything you need to know, not sure it's much longer tho

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p304...line_5_in.html

[B_man_Al]

Ross/RMR&C .. The stock yoke shown on the right works out to about 2.75 in of machined length on the yoke, assuming the OD is 1.5". Ross this would explain why your "stock" yoke will bottom on the back of the transmission.

[F1Resto]

I have my driveshaft out of the truck (49 F1) that I am rebuilding. I have redone the trans already. Have not found a new front yoke, but as folks point out, there is a chevy yoke for the powerglide that can be mod'd to work. I have not found one yet, but did find one with different u-joint. But, if it would help, you can email me at [email protected] and I can send some photos and dimensions of the original shaft and the yoke.

[B_man_Al]

RMR&C ... Do you know if your "stock" yoke allows the output shaft splines to stick out past the U joint end of the yoke?. If not , and the barrel length is around 2 3/4 ( from photo), it can never bottom on C clip inside the transmission. Looks like around 5/8 min spacing. This really makes it very close to the seal, even at nominal without any allowance for slip during deceleration.

[Ross F-1]

There is a dome-shaped plug in the joint end of the stock yoke's splines that seals the splines against dirt. That would prevent the splines from sticking out into the joint, too.

[RMR&C]

Originally Posted by B_man_Al

RMR&C ... Do you know if your "stock" yoke allows the output shaft splines to stick out past the U joint end of the yoke?. If not , and the barrel length is around 2 3/4 ( from photo), it can never bottom on C clip inside the transmission. Looks like around 5/8 min spacing. This really makes it very close to the seal, even at nominal without any allowance for slip during deceleration.

I swapped in a T-5 trans so my old driveshaft and trans are in storage. If I remember....The shaft bottoms in the yoke before it can touch any thing in the trans . When I replaced the seal I didn't drive the seal into the bottom of the housing, I just squared it at the outer edge. That moves it out about 3/4".

The stock yoke has 3" of spline and 2 3/4" seal surface
PG yoke has 4 1/4" of spline and 3 3/4" seal surface

The PG yoke that I have uses a U joint with inside clips.

[B_man_Al]

Here are the details of the yoke shown in my post. It is a SPICER 2-3-1331X.

[Ross F-1]

Do you mean your stock yoke?