New project that should be fun

[Kube]

Originally Posted by mcgarrett

Kube,
I assume you have a Zenith carb? They can be fussy if everything isn't right.

Yes, a Zenith.

[Kube]

Guys, yet another most likely ignorant question.

Is this carburetor piece supposed to have a clear passage from one end to the other? In other words, should I be able to snake a very thin wire though it?

I believe it should be clean through. If I am reading and understanding correctly, a #75 drill is proper to clear this.
Yes? No? I am full of poopy?
Thanks guys.

[Bob C]

Looks like whats left of an idle jet.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Looks like whats left of an idle jet.

Hmmmm.... I continue to learn.
I did think this was an idle jet but didn't envision what you depict.
There is a number "11" stamped on the side.

Just ordered a new one from Bratton's.

Thanks guys!

[Kube]

I thought it proper to bring ya all up to date.
Got the engine starting and running quite nicely. All the while, I'd learned quite a bit.
The engine has not run in decades. I am surprised at just how smooth it runs.
I really appreciate all the advice you guys gave me.
Thanks to all!

[mcgarrett]

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Built Ford Tough!

[Kube]

Now I find the clutch frozen. Pulling the trans. today

[CHuDWah]

Originally Posted by Kube

Yes, standard equipment on the pickup trucks in 1940. My gosh you have good eyesight!

On the '40 passenger cars, it was a dealer available accessory.

Interesting - seems redundant on passenger cars (except maybe Station Wagon) as spare is in trunk.

[rotorwrench]

Not a bad idea since clutches tend to do that after a long sleep. There are other was to break them loose but some ways can be a bit tricky.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Not a bad idea since clutch he's tend to do that after a long sleep. There are other was to break them loose but some ways can be a bit tricky.

Got the trans. out. Disc was stuck. I'll finish the reassembly tomorrow.
I'm pooped.

[Kube]

Trans. is back in. Bit by bit
Ran the chassis around the yard today. What a blast!
Runs quite well, shifts smoothly.

Now? Can't get the starter to engage.
All connections are VERY clean and tight. 6.2v at starter.
I did disassemble the starter switch and cleaned it very well. Slight sign of arcing on contact that I'd carefully cleaned up.
Starter is not locked up.

Methinks bad switch and / or starter.
What else can it possibly be? Not much to the system in my opinion.

[Zax40]

Make sure the starter rod is not making contact with the floor when depressed. Also make sure the Bendix bolts have not worked loose.

[Model "A" Fords]

Originally Posted by Kube

Trans. is back in. Bit by bit
Ran the chassis around the yard today. What a blast!
Runs quite well, shifts smoothly.

Now? Can't get the starter to engage.
All connections are VERY clean and tight. 6.2v at starter.
I did disassemble the starter switch and cleaned it very well. Slight sign of arcing on contact that I'd carefully cleaned up.
Starter is not locked up.

Methinks bad switch and / or starter.
What else can it possibly be? Not much to the system in my opinion.

I remember back in the sixties when people traded in their cars once the ashtray was full!

Kube, you are persistent, ask and follow suggestions well, and are enjoying yourself to boot. This is a great example how, many minds working together can do good things! Best of luck on your project.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Model "A" Fords

I remember back in the sixties when people traded in their cars once the ashtray was full!

Kube, you are persistent, ask and follow suggestions well, and are enjoying yourself to boot. This is a great example how, many minds working together can do good things! Best of luck on your project.

Ya know, I have found the Model A guys especially willing to help a newbie like me. I am so appreciative

[rotorwrench]

Ford's first starter switch for the model A was a rectangular shaped housing with an external pedal return coil spring with a shroud cover over the spring. These were very good switches but were not as simple as the late type switch used through the end of production. The actuator insulator inside the late switch likes to break and render the switch inop. Some folks pitch the litte cross shaped insulator and fabricate an insulator from nylon or delrin that is made to fit in there better. There should be a thread on here about this modification.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Ford's first starter switch for the model A was a rectangular shaped housing with an external pedal return coil spring with a shroud cover over the spring. These were very good switches but were not as simple as the late type switch used through the end of production. The actuator insulator inside the late switch likes to break and render the switch inop. Some folks pitch the litte cross shaped insulator and fabricate an insulator from nylon or delrin that is made to fit in there better. There should be a thread on here about this modification.

Hmmm... the cross shaped insulator is about an inch long overall. Does that sound about right? I didn't find any extraneous pieces when I had disassembled the switch.

[rotorwrench]

That sounds about right. It's not very big so yours may still be intact. The starter is a reliable enough unit but bushings & brushes are Iike any other as far as wear goes. If it rotates OK then it might have internal connection or heat related problems.

What sort of battery are you using?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

That sounds about right. It's not very big so yours may still be intact. The starter is a reliable enough unit but bushings & brushes are Iike any other as far as wear goes. If it rotates OK then it might have internal connection or heat related problems.

What sort of battery are you using?

Acid type, tests at 6.4v.

I did remove the starter and did a "quickie" bench test. Spins very slow. Book I have states around 4000rpm. It's nowhere even close. I'll tear it down asap and see what's going on in there.

I'd bypassed the switch when the starter was installed. It would not activate.

[Kube]

Removed the fuel tank today. Not too difficult but a bit time consuming. Only broke off six screws. The good news is the tank appears to be rather clean inside. Still, I'll acid dip it and seal thoroughly.

[Bob C]

When you go back together the welt for the gas tank is smaller than fender welt, you need 1/8". Here is a picture Marco posted of how the welt was cut and punched in case your old one is trashed.