Oil Filter 55 Ford

[Dobie Gillis]

Spin on adapter.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

it is a '55 Fairlane frame with 272. The attached picture shows the filter hitting the tubular crossmember that supports the engine. The left side motor mount can be seen to the left.

The picture was taken from below the exhaust manifold with a flashlight for light, sorry for the quality.

Can we get a daylite shot?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by tjaybo

...while talking oil filters may I ask a ??.

On my 55 272 there is a plate with "top" written on it that bolts to the block where the oil filter goes. it is about 4" in dia with a small hole in it. Is that an adapter for a spin on filter or is the original bolt thru type canister needed there?

thanks Cheers Jim

Be CAREFUL here as either plate (cartridge or spin-on) will be stamped TOP.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Can we get a daylite shot?

It is difficult to get a good shot because of the brake booster and cylinder. This shot is better, though.

[dmsfrr]

These look like stress cracks in the motor mount.
I'm guessing something may have caused the engine to be shifted forward.
Has the car ever been hit in the front?
Check to see if the transmission tailshaft mount is in similar condition.

[KULTULZ]

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Originally Posted by 40cpe

I bought a '55 last spring with a 272 and adaptor for the spin on filter. I changed the oil and put a FL 1 A on it. I was able to get it on, but the end of the filter hits the cross member/engine support. I have a FL 400 sized filter to replace it when I change the oil shortly.

To be fair, my car has been changed to a 5 speed, but the engine mounts look stock and in the original place. I guess it is possible it has been shifted a little.

...hmmpf...

I would also check the trans mount for correct positioning as it may be pressing the engine/trans assy forward stressing the front insulators.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

....To be fair, my car has been changed to a 5 speed, but the engine mounts look stock and in the original place. I guess it is possible it has been shifted a little.

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

I would also check the trans mount for correct positioning as it may be pressing the engine/trans assy forward stressing the front insulators.

KULTULZ, I missed the 5spd swap for my comment. Thanks for pointing it out.
Yes, the rear transmission mount, adapter hardware and/or transmission length could be pushing the engine too far forward.
It might not hurt to double check the driveshaft, to make sure it isn't a little bit too long.
.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

KULTULZ, I missed the 5spd swap for my comment. Thanks for pointing it out.

Yes, the rear transmission mount (adapter hardware?) or transmission length could be pushing the engine too far forward.

It might not hurt to double check the driveshaft, to make sure it isn't a tiny bit too long.

Hey, you're OK...

You saw the insulator stress straight off.

just wondering, did my reply sound like I was talking over you? I surely didn't mean it.

I have few social skills it seems...

He needs to put s shorter filer on it ASAP as that filter housing may decide to come apart...

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

...just wondering, did my reply sound like I was talking over you? I surely didn't mean it.

Nope, it was just my guilty conscience for not having read thru the whole thread (esp the 2nd half of page 1) to make sure I was replying to the current question at hand...

and mostly repeating what you mentioned in comment #15...

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

... Maybe frame damage or engine supports shifting?

[40cpe]

Thanks for the comments. I hadn't noticed the cracks in the mount until I took the pictures. I have had the drive shaft out and there is slack at the transmission output shaft. The car has an 8" rear and a new custom made driveshaft. I think I will loosen the transmission mount bolts and see if anything shifts to the rear.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

I think I will loosen the transmission mount bolts and see if anything shifts to the rear.

With as heavy as the engine & trans are (about 700 lbs) I'd bet you have to loosen (or remove) all the engine & trans mounting bolts and raise everything very slightly off the mounts to be able to get any movement.
As I was installing the 292 & auto trans into my '55 it took a couple tries with it all still supported by the engine hoist before I was happy with how the mounting bolts centered up in their holes.

Since it would be a good idea to replace the cracked mounts that could be an opportunity to see if things will line up better. (I suspect you're thrilled...)
.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

I think I will loosen the transmission mount bolts and see if anything shifts to the rear.

If you did, I doubt it would matter unless you also loosened the bottom bolt and two side bolts on the front steady-rest (just behind the radiator), and then lifted the whole engine and trans a little bit with a rolling floor jack.
It appears to me that your engine is too far forward. Your fan blade must be a fraction of an inch from hitting the back of the radiator.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

If you did, I doubt it would matter unless you also loosened the bottom bolt and two side bolts on the front steady-rest (just behind the radiator), and then lifted the whole engine and trans a little bit with a rolling floor jack.
It appears to me that your engine is too far forward. Your fan blade must be a fraction of an inch from hitting the back of the radiator.

There is no steady rest on this car. is it necessary?

I suggested loosening the transmission mount bolts because there seemed to be an implication that the front mounts were stressed because of forward pressure. The mounts were new when the engine was installed. Are they just faulty?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

I suggested loosening the transmission mount bolts because there seemed to be an implication that the front mounts were stressed because of forward pressure. The mounts were new when the engine was installed.

Are they just faulty?

They are faulty now...

(yeah, I am an a$$... )

It may be that the T-5 5/S doesn't fit within the trans tunnel correctly (too wide and/or tall) and the installer cheated. See how close the trans case is to the tunnel all around.

It also may be the mounts were El Cheapos, failed and allowed the engine/trans to slide forward during a hard stop.

[40cpe]

I jacked the car up today, changed the oil and installed a shorter filter. Looked closely at the mounts. They don't seem to be altered, no elongated slots, etc. Right side mount not split. Can they be installed backward to cause this?

I removed the transmission mount with transmission supported on floor jack. I tried to pry the trans/engine assembly backwards, no movement. About 3/4" slack in the driveshaft, so it is not binding. The engine side of the Z bar mount for the the clutch is forward from straight across from the frame attachment, affirming the forward position of the engine. Unless the engine mounts can be reversed to cause this, I'm lost.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

I jacked the car up today, changed the oil and installed a shorter filter. Looked closely at the mounts. They don't seem to be altered, no elongated slots, etc. Right side mount not split. Can they be installed backward to cause this?

I removed the transmission mount with transmission supported on floor jack. I tried to pry the trans/engine assembly backwards, no movement. About 3/4" slack in the driveshaft, so it is not binding.

The engine side of the Z bar mount for the the clutch is forward from straight across from the frame attachment, affirming the forward position of the engine.

Unless the engine mounts can be reversed to cause this, I'm lost.

Here is you shot of the mount-



This is how it should be orientated-



The steady rest was used 55-56 I know. But that info was deleted from the 49/59 MPC.

If there was one, it had to be removed .

[KULTULZ]

What kind of clearance do you have between the booster and rocker cover?

[40cpe]

So the front mounts ARE reversed. If I install them correctly I will have to rework the transmission mount, driveshaft, exhaust, shifter location, and maybe more. Unless it causes more problems, I'll leave it like it is. The short filter eliminated the interference with the crossmember.

There is ample room to remove the valve cover under the brake booster.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

So the front mounts ARE reversed. If I install them correctly I will have to rework the transmission mount, driveshaft, exhaust, shifter location, and maybe more.

That's the favor the T-5 installer gave you...

[Ole Don]

The fact remains the left motor mount is broken. When I replace the engine in my 55, I bought new MM. I drilled 5/16 holes through both metal sides and the rubber. Then I put in grade 8 bolts, tightened the nuts finger tight, then loosened them one full turn, and double nutted them. Two on each side. The reason being that back in the day, I saw many of these cars with a broken L/S motor mount, and the engine would lift on acceleration. My motor was modified, and the accelerator was not pressed sparingly. My 55 sedan had a Tremmec T3550, and I made a custom trans crossmember, it was up so tight, I could not get a ballistic blanket around the bell housing. I used a stock aluminum drive shaft from a 1990 Crown Vic with a rear flange to fit the Ranger 8.8 rear.