30 Tudor tail-light issue

[30aadoodlebug]

I've hit the point in my restoration process where it was time to put the electrical components into my 30 Tudor. I managed to get the main harness in without any issue, and everything baring the horn and the tail-light is working properly. I'm sure that the horn is not working due to the fact that it needs new wiring from the button to the light switch body on the end of the steering column via the horn rod. However, what does have me a little confused is the fact that my tail-light is always on. My thoughts are leading me to the fact that the switch could be defective, but how would I figure this out? I'm sure it involves the multimeter, but how would I go about doing so? Also, when I use the break pedal, the brake light does not work.

Thanks,

Jon

[MAG]

Could it possibly be the Stop Light that is always ON?
Remove one of the wires on the Stop Light Switch. If the light oes out that is the source of the problem and may only require adjusting the switch.

[30aadoodlebug]

Thanks MAG, and will do. This may be a real newbie question, but how does one go about adjusting the switch?

[MAG]

There are 2 types of Stop Light Switches.
The early type mounts on the left side of the transmission tower and is adjusted by loosening the 2 mounting bolts and sliding it forward or rearward. it is operated by a link connected to the pin in the brake pedal.
The late type is mounted on the rear of the frame center crossmember. It is held in the OFF position by the rod coming from the brake pedal. When the rod is properly adjusted it will turn hold the switch in the OFF position. Ofcourse this depends on the rod being correct, i.e, not modified. Mal-adjustment is the cause of many Stop Lights be ON continuously.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If the taillight is always on it could be the brake switch is always on and the taillight has a bad ground. Then the current travels through the brake filament and the taillight filament and through the headlamps to ground. Only the taillight lights up because it has the lightest filament, and the other filaments simply act as a wire path to ground. If you run a good ground wire to the rear light housing the taillight would go out and the brake light would come on, if you have a stuck on brake switch.

You just need to use a test light or volt meter to follow the flow of voltage. One screw on the brake switch should have voltage, but the other screw should not, unless the brake pedal is pushed.

[30aadoodlebug]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Tom, thanks a million. This info is very helpful, and now I have a rainy day project (it's currently cold and rainy here in Taxachusetts).

Thanks again!

[Mitch//pa]

What Tom said

[30aadoodlebug]

Next Question to you all. So my father came by today to see how I was making progress with the car, and I found out that my light switch operates in the wrong direction (off is up and to the left, where it is supposed to be the opposite and turn on to the right). I took the light switch body off to see if I could rectify the situation, and there's only one way the harness can go in and out. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

Jon

[Tom Wesenberg]

Pull the switch completely off by removing the bail wire, then turn the light switch handle half way around, so the handle points down. Now reinstall the switch.

[30aadoodlebug]

Thanks again Tom. In seeing the fix, I guess that was a really stupid question.

[Tom Wesenberg]

BTW, the wires exit the hole in the up position. Some people mistakenly have the light switch body turned upside down. Original covers for the switch wires have a small drain hole on the bottom side.

[30aadoodlebug]

Hi Tom,

I just sent you a PM concerning my lighting issue.

Thanks,

Jon