The Ford Barn

RockHillWill · 07-16-2015, 12:12 PM

It looks like I am going to be repairing some service brake cross shafts (about 45-50) and am looking for a manageable method for removing the 'rivits' in the brake actuating arms. I have tried several methods, but they all seemed labor intensive. Any thoughts?

Rowdy · 07-16-2015, 01:20 PM

V- block with a hole and a 2" long pin punch attached to a 20 ton press. File the pin flush and then press it out. That is all I can think of that might make it easier. If you need extra cores at some point let me know. Rod

Al 29Tudor · 07-16-2015, 01:21 PM

Hi Will,
I did my cross shaft about two weeks ago. The shaft was very loose and now the brake peddle is higher and very firm.
Mark one bell-crank and the end of the shaft with one punch mark in each, then mark the other end with two punch marks.
Start with a small drill and drill into the center of the rivet maybe a quarter inch, keep increasing drill size and make sure you don't drill into the bell-crank.
Use a drift pin to drive the rivet out and remove the bell-crank and bushing each end of shaft.
I bought the repair kit from Bratton's and it includes everything you need. Use the filler epoxy included to bond the sleeve in place. Locate the longer sleeve on the end with the longer space for it.
After curing, grease the sleeve and inside of the bushing and install with the bell-crank and align punch marks.
Insert the rivet, heat the rivet tail real hot and buck it with a two pound sledge hammer.
You're are going to like the results.
Al

bunnyc · 07-16-2015, 02:19 PM

PM sent

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 07-17-2015, 07:08 AM

Will, I am glad to hear you are going to do these as they are very labor intensive to restore them correctly. Now I can just purchase them from you instead!

The best (fastest) way we have found to do them is set them in the Bridgeport and drill them. Fabricate a fixture that locates them use the brake arm clevis pins to reference off of. Drill 90-95%% down through the pin and then use a hammer & hardened punch to drive out the remaining portion of the pin.

FWIW, we have found the more labor intensive task is reworking each of the arm holes ( -all 10 holes!!! ) as each of those need to be TIG-ed up and then redrilled/reamed so the clevis pins are tight. This is even more critical if someone is using new brake rods as no one likes to drill their new brake rod for an oversized pins just to take up some of the wear in those arms. Machine a piece of bronze flat stock to tightly fit between the two eyelets on the arm so that when you are welding the perimeter of the hole, the weld stays focused on the hole and does not "fall" into the center area where the brake rod eyelet goes.

Kevin in NJ · 07-17-2015, 08:30 AM

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For the few I have taken apart,

I eyeballed the rivet and used a white marker to make a line on the end of the shaft. I rigged up my drill press and did my best to get straight through. As I recall I went about 2/3 the way down and got out to about 80% of the hole size. That rivet really wanted to stay put. Then I used a big hammer and set the end on my big ass vice with the jaws open and they wacked out pretty easy.

The reason why I put the line down the end was to get the drill to be better lined up. You really have to drill a lot out and you can easily get off and drill too much into the shaft (I learned on the worn shaft). So I changed tactics. I made it easier to tell that I was going in the right direction with the drill.

An interesting observation. I have several cross shafts that have NO wear! The first one I took apart was worn, but I think I have 2 others plus the one on my car with no wear.

I can see where a production shop might make a wood jig to hold the shaft level while getting the rotation right. Then a plunge cut on a mill could be the quickest way to move things along. I like Brents idea of the bronze spacer, though I really prefer copper. I took the lazy way out and just drilled all mine for the oversized pins.

I don't know if my way is the best way, but it worked for me.

FWIW, During the Sandy storm my tree demonstrated the #1 way to discover your tree has a fungal infection. So the 75' tree took out the power lines. After the guys were done fixing the lines (only took a week) a couple of pieces of the copper wire got left behind. It is some nice stuff to have around. I know the electric companies are very defensive about keeping the wire, but you might be able to get few inches to a foot from some guys on a truck (well they may have to accidentally leave it in your yard). Well worth having around the shop to back welds.

briphaeton · 02-19-2016, 11:17 AM

I just bought new clevis pins and clevis from a well know supplier. Very disappointed that the clevis are over sized and the pins are undersized by a total of .005. The clevis pin cotter pin hole are under size and won't take the 1/8 cotter pin as described in the JS.
I'm going to start making my own clevis pins. I'm almost finished with my cross shaft.

07-16-2015, 01:20 PM	#2
Rowdy BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80 Posts: 4,893	Re: Service brake cross shaft repair V- block with a hole and a 2" long pin punch attached to a 20 ton press. File the pin flush and then press it out. That is all I can think of that might make it easier. If you need extra cores at some point let me know. Rod __________________ Do the RIGHT thing - Support the H.A.M.B. Alliance!!!!

07-16-2015, 01:21 PM	#3
Al 29Tudor Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Venice, FL Posts: 648	Re: Service brake cross shaft repair Hi Will, I did my cross shaft about two weeks ago. The shaft was very loose and now the brake peddle is higher and very firm. Mark one bell-crank and the end of the shaft with one punch mark in each, then mark the other end with two punch marks. Start with a small drill and drill into the center of the rivet maybe a quarter inch, keep increasing drill size and make sure you don't drill into the bell-crank. Use a drift pin to drive the rivet out and remove the bell-crank and bushing each end of shaft. I bought the repair kit from Bratton's and it includes everything you need. Use the filler epoxy included to bond the sleeve in place. Locate the longer sleeve on the end with the longer space for it. After curing, grease the sleeve and inside of the bushing and install with the bell-crank and align punch marks. Insert the rivet, heat the rivet tail real hot and buck it with a two pound sledge hammer. You're are going to like the results. Al

07-16-2015, 02:19 PM	#4
bunnyc Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: KY Posts: 296	Re: Service brake cross shaft repair PM sent

07-17-2015, 07:08 AM	#5
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,519	Re: Service brake cross shaft repair Will, I am glad to hear you are going to do these as they are very labor intensive to restore them correctly. Now I can just purchase them from you instead! The best (fastest) way we have found to do them is set them in the Bridgeport and drill them. Fabricate a fixture that locates them use the brake arm clevis pins to reference off of. Drill 90-95%% down through the pin and then use a hammer & hardened punch to drive out the remaining portion of the pin. FWIW, we have found the more labor intensive task is reworking each of the arm holes ( -all 10 holes!!! ) as each of those need to be TIG-ed up and then redrilled/reamed so the clevis pins are tight. This is even more critical if someone is using new brake rods as no one likes to drill their new brake rod for an oversized pins just to take up some of the wear in those arms. Machine a piece of bronze flat stock to tightly fit between the two eyelets on the arm so that when you are welding the perimeter of the hole, the weld stays focused on the hole and does not "fall" into the center area where the brake rod eyelet goes. __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

07-17-2015, 08:30 AM	#6
Kevin in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South East NJ Posts: 3,398	Re: Service brake cross shaft repair Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) For the few I have taken apart, I eyeballed the rivet and used a white marker to make a line on the end of the shaft. I rigged up my drill press and did my best to get straight through. As I recall I went about 2/3 the way down and got out to about 80% of the hole size. That rivet really wanted to stay put. Then I used a big hammer and set the end on my big ass vice with the jaws open and they wacked out pretty easy. The reason why I put the line down the end was to get the drill to be better lined up. You really have to drill a lot out and you can easily get off and drill too much into the shaft (I learned on the worn shaft). So I changed tactics. I made it easier to tell that I was going in the right direction with the drill. An interesting observation. I have several cross shafts that have NO wear! The first one I took apart was worn, but I think I have 2 others plus the one on my car with no wear. I can see where a production shop might make a wood jig to hold the shaft level while getting the rotation right. Then a plunge cut on a mill could be the quickest way to move things along. I like Brents idea of the bronze spacer, though I really prefer copper. I took the lazy way out and just drilled all mine for the oversized pins. I don't know if my way is the best way, but it worked for me. FWIW, During the Sandy storm my tree demonstrated the #1 way to discover your tree has a fungal infection. So the 75' tree took out the power lines. After the guys were done fixing the lines (only took a week) a couple of pieces of the copper wire got left behind. It is some nice stuff to have around. I know the electric companies are very defensive about keeping the wire, but you might be able to get few inches to a foot from some guys on a truck (well they may have to accidentally leave it in your yard). Well worth having around the shop to back welds.

07-16-2015, 12:12 PM	#1
RockHillWill Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rock Hill, S.C. Posts: 985	Service brake cross shaft repair It looks like I am going to be repairing some service brake cross shafts (about 45-50) and am looking for a manageable method for removing the 'rivits' in the brake actuating arms. I have tried several methods, but they all seemed labor intensive. Any thoughts? __________________ Uncle Bud says "too soon old, too late smart!"

02-19-2016, 11:17 AM	#7
briphaeton Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 241	Re: Service brake cross shaft repair I just bought new clevis pins and clevis from a well know supplier. Very disappointed that the clevis are over sized and the pins are undersized by a total of .005. The clevis pin cotter pin hole are under size and won't take the 1/8 cotter pin as described in the JS. I'm going to start making my own clevis pins. I'm almost finished with my cross shaft.