Front cross member needed badly

[Kentmac]

Does anyone know where I might obtain a front cross member for a 1930 pickup? Mine is cracked right in the middle and I would like to replace it rather than have it welded if possible. I know they are riveted in but could be removed by grinding and replaced with bolts. Any help would be appreciated.

[aermotor]

How big of a crack and where? Strength, now and in the future, may be stronger by welding than replacing with bolts. If you are going to replace use rivets. IMOH


John

[Bob C]

Here is what looks like a NOS one, not cheap.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1929-31-FOR...9:pf:0&vxp=mtr

[Oldbluoval]

May be obvious but.....
You have to make sure bolts on top of the frame are flush with the frame. Use countersunk heads or something. Otherwise, you have a big knot there and the fender won't lay flush with the frame.

[duke36]

try Berts in Denver

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

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Originally Posted by Bob C

Here is what looks like a NOS one, not cheap.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1929-31-FOR...9:pf:0&vxp=mtr

I don’t think a model A cross member is anywhere near a 32 in price. 32’s are much harder to find and thus the price. I paid $10 for a model A rear cross member, and $350 for a 32 K member.
My mistake I thought it was a 32 cross member.

[1931 flamingo]

If you get a used one, make sure it's the correct year, as radiator mounting differs.
Paul in CT

[Jim M]

If anyone has one it is Steve at Bert's in Denver. And you can rest assured it will be the right one and in the condition he says it is. I have bought axles and other parts from him and always as represented and great guy to work with.

[Kentmac]

IMG_0671.jpg

I am thinking I will have this welded. What do you think.....

[flatford39]

That's about the worst one I have ever seen. I would look for a good used one. They are pretty easy to find.

[d.]

wow! definitely calls for a replacement cross member. This is holding the entire front end of your Model A together, no time for a patch job. Replace and relax.

[midgetracer]

I agree, Replace. Call Berts or someone in your club. The NOS unit is overpriced.

[holdover]

I am a welder, if this was on my vehicle I would replace it. It is not just cracked, it is destroyed!

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Here is what looks like a NOS one, not cheap.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1929-31-FOR...9:pf:0&vxp=mtr

I think this NOS one on Ebay is a 1931 one from the radiator overflow hole . I imagine most that come up for sale are the 1931 last change ones? As far as overpriced if you go to Ebay under completed items a similar NOS one sold last month for close to $450.00 as I remember.Looks like more than one Model A owner is looking for NOS ones if they are that common. I noticed one seller claims this is a Model A item that a lot of 1931 owners want to swap to as it fits lower?

[Mike V. Florida]

Like the others BERTS!

[fordcragar]

I'd replace it too, but you could always weld it and see how long it lasts though.

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by Kentmac

Attachment 378594

I am thinking I will have this welded. What do you think.....

Let's see...what was that old TV advertisement?..."You can pay me now...OR pay me later"!

Get a good original from Berts.

Pluck

[john in illinois]

Model A front crossmember are not easy to find. A couple of years ago Steve at Berts told me he did not have any, demand was high.

Several people in our club have needed one and had a hard time finding a good one.
If someone has a good one it would be nice if you could help OP out.

John

[Flop]

You practically tripped over them at Hershey . Not a hard piece to find .

[JBill]

There seem to be mixed messages here. Either they're nearly impossible to find or at Hershey you'll trip over them. I'm no metal worker, but if things get desperate, would it be possible to cut out that section of the pictured crossmember and weld in a piece shaped to fit? Talented metal workers can do some pretty amazing things. It could be reinforced some underneath as long as that didn't interfere with the fit of the front spring.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by JBill

There seem to be mixed messages here.

There's a first for this site.

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by JBill

There seem to be mixed messages here. Either they're nearly impossible to find or at Hershey you'll trip over them. I'm no metal worker, but if things get desperate, would it be possible to cut out that section of the pictured crossmember and weld in a piece shaped to fit? Talented metal workers can do some pretty amazing things. It could be reinforced some underneath as long as that didn't interfere with the fit of the front spring.

Like what was posted earlier at first glance they may all look like a Model A crossmember,would to me just a couple months ago.Thanks to Pluck I now know there were several variations. NOS ones on Ebay lately tend to be 1930-1931.

[tinkirk]

Originally Posted by Kentmac

Does anyone know where I might obtain a front cross member for a 1930 pickup? Mine is cracked right in the middle and I would like to replace it rather than have it welded if possible. I know they are riveted in but could be removed by grinding and replaced with bolts. Any help would be appreciated.

just send you pm with a number to call

[JBill]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

Like what was posted earlier at first glance they may all look like a Model A crossmember,would to me just a couple months ago.Thanks to Pluck I now know there were several variations. NOS ones on Ebay lately tend to be 1930-1931.

I know they're different where the radiator sits, but didn't think they were much different where this damage is. But I'm not sure. Could be.

[rich b]

30-31 on the left 28-29 on the right.

[Ted Duke]

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Originally Posted by dick steinkamp

there's a first for this site.

lol

[Fred K-OR]

As mentioned a number of times above, Call Bert's in Denver.

[jimalabam]

I would replace it. Then you can stop worrying the repairs did not hold. Think of using your car a long time...

[Fred K-OR]

I have replaced both of mine and bolted them in. This works fine.

[Kentmac]

I finally found one in Michigan that I may get later this week. Thanks to everyone for their advise about this. My next question is, how hard is it to get the old one off. I assume that I will need to remove both fenders. Can this be done with the engine in the vehicle? I suppose grinding the rivets off would be best approach though I haven't looked it over enough to know how difficult that would be.

[Kentmac]

I tried Bert's. He said they are getting hard to find and did not have any at this time.....

[Brentwood Bob]

Chisel off and drill out to remove rivets. I found rivets at a farm implement/equipment dealer and big flats rivet company sells rivets and gives instructions on correct install. Prime the lap before riveting.

[37 Coupe]

Big Flats sells the right ones in a kit for Model A and other makes. Bolt everything together and remove one bolt at a time to install the correct rivet.Big Flats also sells the bucking bars and round rivet forming tools as well as others. Just plan on it taking awhile and get a second set of hands to help especially with an acetylene torch to heat rivet red hot and keep hot while forming.First thing you are supposed to do after it is red hot is hammer the rivet to swell in the diameter than keep red hot to form the head. Ideally the best scenario is a stripped frame on some sort of an anvil. I did this years ago on another year frame a 1939. Held the frame on a chain hoist wit a massive welding table as the anvil part and had individual blocks or whatever it takes to back up the force of the blow.Now I have non of this equipment at hand and would like to do the job again on my Model A.But Big Flats is sdefinitely where you need to get supplies and instructions.they even have a channel jack that fits inside the frame to hold the rivet but these could be made simple enough on a lathe. Again plan on taking your time remove a holding bolt and do one at a time.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Kentmac

I finally found one in Michigan that I may get later this week. Thanks to everyone for their advise about this. My next question is, how hard is it to get the old one off. I assume that I will need to remove both fenders. Can this be done with the engine in the vehicle? I suppose grinding the rivets off would be best approach though I haven't looked it over enough to know how difficult that would be.

Be sure you get one for a 1930-31 rig because they are different than the 28/29.


Also, I would guess you would need to take the fenders off if you are going to put rivets back in. I don't think I took my fenders off on my coupe, because I just put bolts back in. I think I, like mentioned, used a chisel and drill to get mine out. If I remember they came out easy. But you do need to support the frame. Good luck.

[desotoguy]

Question on replacing the crossmember. Can the replacement be inserted into the frame rails without spreading them somehow? Never had to replace one but who knows what the next project wil need.

[Fred K-OR]

I found I did not have to spread them. But it may depend on what shape your car is in. If it had a bump in the past, may be sprung.

[abachman3]

We just recently replaced one and did not need to spread the frame at all. We ground off the heads from the original rivets and drove them out. We used a Port-A-Power to hold the bucking bar on the inside of the frame as we set the rivets on the outside. We heated the rivets to dull red immediately prior to setting them.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by Kentmac

Does anyone know where I might obtain a front cross member for a 1930 pickup? Mine is cracked right in the middle and I would like to replace it rather than have it welded if possible. I know they are riveted in but could be removed by grinding and replaced with bolts. Any help would be appreciated.

Another one ebay #153244135028