T5 advice

[KJ714]

So I’ve read the T5 threads, I’m looking to have one built.

It sounds like to me I want a WC pre 93 S10 Chevy bolt pattern 14 spline input 26 spline output 3.76 mechanical speedo box to go behind a 36 flattie using a speedway conversion kit. Is this right? Or did I get something wrong? There’s so much info out there it gets kinda confusing reading through it.

Edit - since I’m having it built, what would be the best 1st gear? Not looking to do burnouts, 21 stud driveability is key.

[Krylon32]

Check my ad on here. Been selling the T5 kits since the mid 90's. Most complete kit on the market. Cost's more money but most of it is made in the USA. Kit price $625 plus shipping. Been selling rebuilt S10 T5's for over 20 years, currently $1430 delivered to your door. Speedometer drive depends on core availability. Gary at Cornhusker Rod And Custom

[Pete]

I would recommend a #202 gear set with a 4.10 rear end.
Have a street "L" installed in the side filler hole to raise the lube level 1/2 inch.
Helps with long life of the system.
Have 2 bushings installed in the tail shaft housing for the slip joint. Helps make for long life of the system.
Buy or make a short shifter.
Helps increase driving pleasure.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by KJ714

So I’ve read the T5 threads, I’m looking to have one built.

It sounds like to me I want a WC pre 93 S10 Chevy bolt pattern 14 spline input 26 spline output 3.76 mechanical speedo box to go behind a 36 flattie using a speedway conversion kit. Is this right? Or did I get something wrong? There’s so much info out there it gets kinda confusing reading through it.

Edit - since I’m having it built, what would be the best 1st gear? Not looking to do burnouts, 21 stud driveability is key.

You're right, there are truckloads of information available about T5s on the internet and not all of it is necessarily accurate info, and there is also misleading info out there.

One of the most-misunderstood aspects of T5 in these old cars is the idea of the need to use an "S-10" T5. Way back when, someone realized that the shifter on an "S-10" T5 was quite a few inches forward of most other T5 shifters. That's a great discovery as it makes it possible to have the shifter located quite a bit forward of a bench seat, or at least in a comfortable spot of the floor in your project car. BUT ..... "S-10" T5 transmissions all came out of little, wimpy 4-cylinder or V6 pick-ups that had very little grunt. For that reason, the GM folks stipulated that they wanted what was essentially a "GRANDMA" first gear of either a 4.03 or 3.76 ratio so that the things had a chance of reasonable acceleration when taking off from a stop light. You should realize that most old Ford V8 3-speed transmissions with a 28-tooth cluster gear had a 2.82 1st gear ratio, and that when you take off from a stop light in 1st gear, the speed and acceleration realized seems abundantly normal. If you use an "S-10" trans as-is in your project, you will more than likely find 1st gear to be almost useless in everyday driving. Gears and gear ratios in these old cars can make or break a project when swapping major parts like this. Planning and understanding of gear ratios and tire diameters should be of paramount importance.

The best of both worlds can be had with this T5 basic design. The Borg-Warner engineers made it almost TOO easy with this T5. It is such a forgiving basic transmission as far as swapping factory parts to come-up with different configurations. B-W T5s were originally built with only TWO different main cases ..... one with a GM bolt pattern like a Muncie has, and the other with the later Ford pattern like seen in a billion Mustangs. They are BOTH 9-1/4" front to rear. Both will readily accept ANY T5 gearset internally. This means that the "S-10" parts will readily bolt to the rear of any T5 case to locate that shifter right where you want it, yet with the option to use a gearset that is user-friendly for almost any kind of driving you have in mind.

If you're going to have one of the T5 rebuilding services to BUILD a transmission for you, you're way ahead of the game. Those guys have all of the parts available to them to build your "DREAM Trans". I just worked with another FordBarner that had a "DREAM" trans built by a rebuilder in Vancouver. He had a GM case mated with an "S-10" tail shaft housing and shift rod. He had them use an S-10 main shaft so that the speedometer gear located in the correct position with relation to the speedo hole on the tail shaft housing. Most importantly, he had the rebuilder use a "close ratio" gearset out of a V8 Camaro which has a 26-spline input shaft and a 2.95 1st gear. That 2.95 is only slightly higher numerically than that 2.82 Ford gear that we all use for 1st gear take-offs. Not only that, but the rebuilder happened to have on hand the relatively rare pair of 5th gear O/D gears to give him a .76 O/D ratio rather than the usual .63 O/D with that close ratio gearset. One more thing many don't realize about the 1st gear ratios we're talking about. The 1st gear ratio in any transmission is going to determine the overall torque rating of the transmission. Those T5s with 4.03 & 3.76 1st gears have a much lower torque rating than the 2.95 1st gear boxes.

Don't be afraid of a NWC (Non World Class) T5 as the only real difference between WC and NWC is the bearing type used to support the cluster gear as well as the type of friction material used on the synchronizers. NOTHING wrong with NWC T5s.

And going by your original post, I know of no "26-spline" output shaft. GM output shafts are 27-spline and Ford shafts are 28-spline. Hoping this helps you make an educated choice.

Coop


.

[KJ714]

Good info all, thanks! The various T5 threads out there have great info, it’s a firehose though. So it’s good to get zero’d in with the fellow flatties who have the specific knowledge.

[Krylon32]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

You guys can demean what I sell but as I said above I've sold a lot of the 3.76 first gear transmissions and I would say that in the almost 30 years I've had my T5 kit on the market the majority of the T-5's behind these kits have been that trans. The S 10 trans is ideal because of input shaft and bearing retainer length plus the shifter is a better location than a trans such as the Camero. The length of the Camero input shaft and bearing retainer is marginal, in fact it's basically to short. I can back with I say about my T5 kit with the number of sales and the successful trouble free use of my kit. I have fielded countless calls from people that have bought kits from other sources and are having problems. I'm not saying Coopman is wrong but the availability of replacement internals for these trans sometimes determines what gears they have.

[Ziggster]

When I purchased the lot of three T5s, I had no idea of the different types. I ended up rebuilding the one which was most complete which turned out to be a WC from a 89 Mustang. Having the shifter rearwards for me with my speedster build was actually a blessing, but I’ll still be moving the shifter handle to the outside of the body with some linkage. The only downside to using the Mustang T5 was having a sleeve machined for the input bearing retainer so I could use an early Ford throw-out bearing. Getting that simple sleeve machined was a crazy CAN$380!

[Krylon32]

Several years ago I was building a customer a FH powered 32 roadster and he sent me an adapter from Shadow Rods made for a Mustang trans which they provided with an S10 tail shaft. They included with the bell housing a Merc TO brg which didn't require a sleeve and had clips that went over the fork. Also used a diaphragm pp.

[Ol' Ron]

Just curious: What rear axle are you using???
Gramps

[flathead 53]

I am running A 53 f-100 merc flathead with an S-10 trans 3.76 first gear ,and A nine inch 59 f-100rear with 3.50 gears ,It is A great driver ,I drive it all the time no issues .

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

You guys can demean what I sell but as I said above I've sold a lot of the 3.76 first gear transmissions and I would say that in the almost 30 years I've had my T5 kit on the market the majority of the T-5's behind these kits have been that trans. The S 10 trans is ideal because of input shaft and bearing retainer length plus the shifter is a better location than a trans such as the Camero. The length of the Camero input shaft and bearing retainer is marginal, in fact it's basically to short. I can back with I say about my T5 kit with the number of sales and the successful trouble free use of my kit. I have fielded countless calls from people that have bought kits from other sources and are having problems. I'm not saying Coopman is wrong but the availability of replacement internals for these trans sometimes determines what gears they have.

Gary ("Krylon32") ..... PLEASE UNDERSTAND that in no way have I consciously made an effort to cast ANY negativity toward your T5 kits. I've never had the pleasure of being associated with a Cornhusker T5 kit directly, but from what little I have heard about your kits, never have I heard a complaint about them, and it is well-known that YOU treat your customers well and that you stand behind what you sell. I HAVE heard that your kits are not geared toward the more robust T5s such as the Camaro V8, but you have openly alluded to that and explained why above in post #6. The main reason that you have sold so many of these "S-10-specific" transmissions is what I keep trying to preach and that is the fact that people hear "S-10" ..... for the shifter placement, yet don't realize that the parts that move the shifter forward can be incorporated in a T5 that DOES NOT incorporate the wimpy gear ratios. In fact, too many "car guys" lose track of the importance of gearing in general when creating a project. Choosing the 'wrong' gearing can certainly leave an ugly taste in a car builder's mouth if gearing isn't taken into account.

My pessimism with the 4.03 & 3.76 1st gear versions of the T5 should not be hard to follow if you think about the WHYS of MOST folks that go to the expense and trouble involved with changing-over from an old Ford 3-speed transmission to a more-modern T5. Compared with the Ford 3-speed, the T5 must be looked at as an upgrade in performance, as an improvement over an archaic transmission which now will sport five fully-synchronized gears that shift like butter, as well as the ability to take advantage of careful gear ratio selection so as to keep RPM performance in tighter power bands. As such, virtually anyone undertaking a swap like swapping a T5 onto the back of your flathead (or even 4-banger) MUST mean that you're seriously looking forward to ANY & ALL of the performance gains that such a swap can offer. I just CANNOT imagine anyone being excited about installing an "S-10" T5, and then upon the first drive finding out that you've run out of 1st gear at about 10 mph with that 4.03 "S-10" 1st gear ratio, especially with a 4.11 rear end. That might make a great PARADE car, though.

One more little bit of sugar on the candy to consider. Anyone considering such a swap should look into taking full advantage of the CLOSE RATIO gear set with the 2.95 1st gear, like I said above to keep your RPMs in a tighter power band. If you've never experienced the phenomenon, beg or borrow your way into a ride in a friend's Corvette equipped with a close-ratio Muncie transmission. Once you feel & realize what it's like for the RPMs to drop so little between gear shifts, you'll never even consider going back to an ordinary (non-close-ratio) T5. If you contact a rebuilder that can't supply you with the gearsets and parts you want, you simply go to the next one on your extensive list of T5 parts suppliers & builders. They are out there!

Coop


.

[Krylon32]

Coopman: Please share with everyone on the HAMB your reliable source for the 2.95 gear se for the S10 T5. In order to be competitive they must be available, good quality, reasonably priced and preferably made in the USA. My rebuilder has been in the business for over 35 years and is finding the parts to rebuild the T5's getting more difficult to get. I have used this guy for a long time with minimal problems. I had tried rebuilders in Texas, Iowa and Illinois who wouldn't back up their rebuilds so I tend to stay where I don't have come backs.

[Tim Ayers]

Gary, totally understand your point as business person selling kits. Last thing you want are come backs.

Coop or Gary: Curious, is there a "newer" transmission with a similar bolt pattern that could take the place of the T5 once parts run out? One that incorporates the close ratio gearing and the O/D a lot of folks want?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

Coopman: Please share with everyone on the HAMB your reliable source for the 2.95 gear se for the S10 T5. In order to be competitive they must be available, good quality, reasonably priced and preferably made in the USA. My rebuilder has been in the business for over 35 years and is finding the parts to rebuild the T5's getting more difficult to get. I have used this guy for a long time with minimal problems. I had tried rebuilders in Texas, Iowa and Illinois who wouldn't back up their rebuilds so I tend to stay where I don't have come backs.

Gary & Tim ..... I don't have any GOOD answers for either one of you. These T5 transmissions are suddenly over FORTY years old. Funny how almost everything that us kids play with has already, or is quickly becoming an ANTIQUATED, old used car part. Heck, we thought the old Ford 3-speeds were getting old and fragile with people like Mac VP having parts re-manufactured from sctatch just to keep the things mostly in service. Now, I realize that parts for these T5s are becoming a problem. Of course, there is NOS stuff still buried out there. It just needs to be unearthed. We know how all of that works. I honestly don't know of a reputable dealer in trans parts that could consistently supply close ratio gearsets. We're going to become dependent on selected, used gears for situations like this. It's the rebuild parts that concern me. Plus the fact that nobody is gearing-up to reproduce ANY of this stuff because word has it that NOBODY wants to drive a manual shift transmission any more, so the suppliers will eventually dry up. Just like Back Order Bob restocking with all the stuff he has been out of for eons.....ain't gonna happen 'cuz there ain't that many old geezers like us standing in line any more with cash in hand.

The only real replacement trans that I see is possibly that great big, newer and expensive Tremec "TKX". But those things are so expensive that sales will be far and few between, relatively speaking. And you won't be seeing them in the junkyards, either. Maybe any of y'all showing an interest in a T5 need to get-on with the program while there are still parts and options left to choose from. And anyone interested in building that "dream T5", there is still enough stock out there to get it done, but it won't last forever. The only thing keeping the T5 alive right now is that die-hard Mustang bunch that keep hammering on all those little Mustang T5s. Once the rebuild parts for the T5 disappear, the trans is doomed!

Coop


.

[itslow]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

...is there a "newer" transmission with a similar bolt pattern that could take the place of the T5 once parts run out? One that incorporates the close ratio gearing and the O/D a lot of folks want?

The Tremec TKX is approximately the same length as a Camaro T5 and offers a shifter position similar to that of the S10 T5. It does vary from the T5 in the "girth" department. Not available with a tail shaft housing that can be converted to closed-drive like the Jeep T5. It is also expensive.

It has been discussed previously, too. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290186

[sshep]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Gary, totally understand your point as business person selling kits. Last thing you want are come backs.

Coop or Gary: Curious, is there a "newer" transmission with a similar bolt pattern that could take the place of the T5 once parts run out? One that incorporates the close ratio gearing and the O/D a lot of folks want?

Yep, Tremac still does. They have been making brand new T-5's since acquiring them from B-W along time ago. Chevy or Ford bolt pattern, Forward or Rear shifter position, and available in a lot of different gear ratio sets to suit the end users requirements.



www.tremac.com

[sshep]

Originally Posted by itslow

The Tremec TKX is approximately the same length as a Camaro T5 and offers a shifter position similar to that of the S10 T5. It does vary from the T5 in the "girth" department. Not available with a tail shaft housing that can be converted to closed-drive like the Jeep T5. It is also expensive.

Mike you have a "Wanted Ardun parts" in the bottom of your posts and you are calling the TKX expensive? Lol

[itslow]

Originally Posted by sshep

Yep, Tremac still does. They have been making brand new T-5's since acquiring them from B-W along time ago. Chevy or Ford bolt pattern, Forward or Rear shifter position, and available in a lot of different gear ratio sets to suit the end users requirements.

Keep in mind new ones are Mustang spec and with only a single gearset. Not as easy to use in a EFV8 as the S10 housing.

Originally Posted by sshep

Mike you have a "Wanted Ardun parts" in the bottom of your posts and you are calling the TKX expensive? Lol

It's expensive relative to a T5. Folks will have sticker shock. Not that a fully rebuilt T5 is cheap anymore, either.

[Ol' Ron]

I;m using a n87 Mustang T-5. Not sure of the gearing but the trans adapter only cost $ 160 and are easy to make. Haven't used many T-5's, But the T-170 is abig hit in the old cars, and you can make your own adapter from a stamped steel bell housing. Most people buy or have guys like me put them together. Also installed a Toyota 5 speed the same way, but had to use some spacers. That's been running behind a 294 Flathead for years. Love to make things. I think that;s alost art, or ! People have alot of money.
Gramps

[sshep]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Love to make things. I think that;s alost art, or ! People have alot of money.
Gramps

I love to make things too, Ron. When I was young I didn't have a lot of money but I did have time to do/make things.



The reality is, like it or not, I have been on this earth longer than I am going to be. I don't have as much "time" anymore so to speak. I worked hard for many years and sacrificed some hobbies to get where I am. Not that I have a lot of money but I definitely have more than when I was younger. Soooo, I would rather spend "money" on certain things to move the projects along than spend "time" if that makes sense.



That said, I did not buy a new Tremac TKX. I have both the aforementioned S-10 and Camaro NWC T-5's. I was intrigued to say the least by Dick's excellent, detailed, write up on the T-5 closed drive conversion. After re-reading his write up multiple times and other related posts/articles, I did obtain the additional parts required to do that conversion as well. I purchased these parts, including the necessary adapter from a gentleman who makes them. To be honest I don't have the machines to make the adapter anyway.



FYI the required CJ Jeep T-5 parts for the closed drive conversion are not going to be easy to find. Not only are they being sought after by us but Jeep guys and other O/T car guys use them as well.



I am familiar with T-5's from my time working at a Ford dealership in the early to mid 90's, so I will do the work myself. I do think that for most buying Gary's or another suppliers T-5 kit is the way to go. As stated it is a complete kit and he/they can supply the S-10 trans if needed as well. He has a lot of them out there and a lot of very happy customers.



You can't take any of it (money or stuff) with you. So if there is something you want to buy, and it won't sink the ship getting it, go for it! We are only here for a little while, so might as well enjoy the ride.

[Ol' Ron]

I think the only reason I like thid hoppy iz because I can make mot of it. As for adapting theT-5 to a stock bajo rear I think is a waste of time and money. Too many late modle rear axles out there. I haven't used one in over 50 years. My favorite goto axle noe=w is the jeep Grand cherokee spicee 44 with 372 and posi very inexpensive , most yards don't kep them. Some have spicer 35, lighter and gives a bette ride.. Early ones have drum brakes
Gramps

[sshep]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

As for adapting the T-5 to a stock banjo rear I think is a waste of time and money.
Gramps

I hear you loud and clear on that Ron. On paper for a total drive-train upgrade, it doesn't make sense. No argument from me there.


However if your goal is to retain the original torque tube design, either for the engineering of it, or just purely to look as stock as possible, this is the way to achieve that. Like I said, I really enjoyed reading Dick's post on the topic and talking to some others who have done the swap as well.



FYI and O/T but to your point of drive-train upgrades on the cheap.- On my Dad's 39 CS, The Ford AOD trans and factory disc brake 9" rear in his car came from a '79 Lincoln Versailles. Back in the 90's the trans was $100 and the rear was $50 from the local yard. Like you said Ron, nobody wanted that stuff. I adapted the AOD to his 8BA. I could still get Ford OE Parts for some of the unusual Versailles specific rear end parts at that time. I put a 3.89 R&P in the rear and with the O/D trans it gets up to speed fine and cruises at highway speeds no problem. It also stops on a dime with four wheel disc brakes. That's why they make Chocolate and Vanilla, so everyone can be happy. Now time to get back out in the garage and get some more work done!

[32coupe]

For what it's worth (Probably Nothing) I am going to put my 2 cents worth of input in here. I have been building manual transmissions Mostly T10's, Muncie and The T5 transmissions for the last 23 years. I have adapted a t5 to a large variety of engines and have pretty much used every kit out there. In fact the only one that comes to mind that I have not had in my hands on yet is the MAC's Kit that is made in Australia. The Offenhauser, Speedway, and Cornhusker kit are all three basicly the same. They all for the most part work pretty well but have limitations. What I don't really care for about these 3 kits is I do not care for the sleeve that goes over the t5 bearing retainer They have been known to turn and move. You can not use anything bigger than a 9" clutch disc And when using a early ford throwout bearing you have to rig up somthing for the spring to attach to. Also there is no inspection cover in the bell, And if using a diaphram pressure plate depending on the brand you get the adapter bell needs to be cleareanced or the rivets will hit the inside of the bellhousing. But probably the biggest Downside of these 3 kits is the simple fact that you have to use a GM T5 transmission. As said above there are basicly 2 types of the T5. Worldclass and Non world class. And if you want a Worldclass T5 (which is a better transmission) there is only 2 ways to get that in a GM config 88-92 Camaro and the one year only 93 S10 with the 2.8 V6. S10 T5's 93-95 were in fact Worldclass but the 4 cylinder T5's had the ford bolt pattern case like the Mustangs. The ford T5's are much more common and all Mustang, T-birds, and other ford type T5's were pretty much all worldclass and most all of them have better gear sets than the S10 T5's did. I said this 20 years ago and I will still say it today In my opinion the best way to adapt a T5 to a early ford flathead V8 or even a banger 4 cylinder is with a Dwight Bond adapter plate and a 48-52 truck Hogshead bellhousing. This will allow you to use a Astro van 10.5 clutch disc, it has a inspection cover built in the bellhousing, It also uses the factory early ford bearing retainer (so no having to jury rig something for the spring and no worries of a sleeve coming loose) No worries on the pressure plate rivets hitting. And it looks correct from the engine bay view. Not to mention depending on what you have in your hogshead (a lot of guys have them just laying around) The price comes in well under the offenhauser and cornhusker kit. Anyhow for anyone looking to do a T5 swap behind their flathead I will say this regardless of which kit you go with. You won't regret it!! The T5 is a flatheads best friend and if you are used to driving the old 39 3spd you will think you got a new car after the swap. Also the s10 gears suck! you don't need a S10 transmission you just need a S10 tailhousing and shift rail and they are all over e-bay not hard to find. Hell I probably have 8 or 10 of them here. And I already know there are gonna be guys who have the 4.03 and 3.76 s10 gear sets in their cars say they are happy with them and that is fine, But I would bet a nickel that they hardly ever use first gear and if they drove a T5 with a 2.95 or even the 3.35 gear set they would be happier. I teamed up with Dwight Bond last year and I am now making and selling his tried and true adapter. I have them listed in the classifieds here and on the HAMB. Anyhow There is a lot of good info out there on the T5 but there is a lot of mis information out there as well. I will say I did not read every post in this thread so if I covered somthing that has already been addressed Sorry and if I can be of any help to anyone wanting to put a T5 in their early ford feel free to message me. Thanks

[Krylon32]

32 coupe: Please don't put my kit in the same league as Offenhauser and Speedway. From the beginning in the mid 90's I have never used a sleeve that is pressed onto the bearing retainer. When I started I could see a problem with that application and went a different direction. You know nothing about my T-5 kits so please don't PO PO what I sell. I should have kept track of the phone calls from builders who were having problems with other companies kits that I have helped. I'm sure I didn't make everyone happy but my return rate for problems is minuscule in comparison to how many kits I've sold. I've worked hard to produce a product that uses several USA made components, not all but as many as possible. My kit is more expensive because it is more complete than others on the market. Most of my customers have used the stock 85-92 and mid 93 up S10 T5 trans with good success. Many of the guys doing this are first timers and become confused and also discouraged when they read all the negative articles written about this conversion. I'm sure you mean well but with so many negatives many of the articles being published on here and the HAMB tend to muddy the waters. Oh Ya you don't have to fabricate a return spring mount with my current bell housing and I do have a window in the top of the bell housing. Gary at Cornhusker

[Ziggster]

Originally Posted by sshep

Yep, Tremac still does. They have been making brand new T-5's since acquiring them from B-W along time ago. Chevy or Ford bolt pattern, Forward or Rear shifter position, and available in a lot of different gear ratio sets to suit the end users requirements.



www.tremac.com

I’m in the process of rebuilding my T5 and there are parts on “back order” and some that are no longer available. Synchro sets that are non Tremec seem to be problematic due to bad manufacturing and none are available from Tremec. As such, I may end using whatever seems in best condition from the three T5s I have. Getting parts for the T5 will only get worse.

[Ziggster]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by 32coupe

For what it's worth (Probably Nothing) I am going to put my 2 cents worth of input in here. I have been building manual transmissions Mostly T10's, Muncie and The T5 transmissions for the last 23 years. I have adapted a t5 to a large variety of engines and have pretty much used every kit out there. In fact the only one that comes to mind that I have not had in my hands on yet is the MAC's Kit that is made in Australia. The Offenhauser, Speedway, and Cornhusker kit are all three basicly the same. They all for the most part work pretty well but have limitations. What I don't really care for about these 3 kits is I do not care for the sleeve that goes over the t5 bearing retainer They have been known to turn and move. You can not use anything bigger than a 9" clutch disc And when using a early ford throwout bearing you have to rig up somthing for the spring to attach to. Also there is no inspection cover in the bell, And if using a diaphram pressure plate depending on the brand you get the adapter bell needs to be cleareanced or the rivets will hit the inside of the bellhousing. But probably the biggest Downside of these 3 kits is the simple fact that you have to use a GM T5 transmission. As said above there are basicly 2 types of the T5. Worldclass and Non world class. And if you want a Worldclass T5 (which is a better transmission) there is only 2 ways to get that in a GM config 88-92 Camaro and the one year only 93 S10 with the 2.8 V6. S10 T5's 93-95 were in fact Worldclass but the 4 cylinder T5's had the ford bolt pattern case like the Mustangs. The ford T5's are much more common and all Mustang, T-birds, and other ford type T5's were pretty much all worldclass and most all of them have better gear sets than the S10 T5's did. I said this 20 years ago and I will still say it today In my opinion the best way to adapt a T5 to a early ford flathead V8 or even a banger 4 cylinder is with a Dwight Bond adapter plate and a 48-52 truck Hogshead bellhousing. This will allow you to use a Astro van 10.5 clutch disc, it has a inspection cover built in the bellhousing, It also uses the factory early ford bearing retainer (so no having to jury rig something for the spring and no worries of a sleeve coming loose) No worries on the pressure plate rivets hitting. And it looks correct from the engine bay view. Not to mention depending on what you have in your hogshead (a lot of guys have them just laying around) The price comes in well under the offenhauser and cornhusker kit. Anyhow for anyone looking to do a T5 swap behind their flathead I will say this regardless of which kit you go with. You won't regret it!! The T5 is a flatheads best friend and if you are used to driving the old 39 3spd you will think you got a new car after the swap. Also the s10 gears suck! you don't need a S10 transmission you just need a S10 tailhousing and shift rail and they are all over e-bay not hard to find. Hell I probably have 8 or 10 of them here. And I already know there are gonna be guys who have the 4.03 and 3.76 s10 gear sets in their cars say they are happy with them and that is fine, But I would bet a nickel that they hardly ever use first gear and if they drove a T5 with a 2.95 or even the 3.35 gear set they would be happier. I teamed up with Dwight Bond last year and I am now making and selling his tried and true adapter. I have them listed in the classifieds here and on the HAMB. Anyhow There is a lot of good info out there on the T5 but there is a lot of mis information out there as well. I will say I did not read every post in this thread so if I covered somthing that has already been addressed Sorry and if I can be of any help to anyone wanting to put a T5 in their early ford feel free to message me. Thanks

I have the orig Ford truck trans that came with my 59A “industrial engine”. IIRC, that bearing retainer will not fit the Ford WC T5 I have. This is why I ordered an all steel new bearing retainer and had to have a sleeve machined for it so I could use an early Ford TO bearing.

[32coupe]

Gary, I meant no disrespect to you or what you sell, Also I forgot that the sleeve in your kit is in the throwout bearing and not pressed on the retainer. As a car builder I am always looking to improve something and find a better way, That's just how my mind works. And that is why I have done this conversion just about everyway possible. And for me No matter what I did and no matter how hard I tried to over complicate things I still found the simplest and best way was Dwight's adapter. So after buying and using the last ones he had even the ones he had saved back for himself I made a deal with him and now produce them. I never said your kit did not work and it works fine. But so does The old offenhauser and The speedway kit in most cases. For me personally Good is not good enough. I want the best! And for my experience and In my opinion there are better ways than your kit to do the T5 to early ford swap. It's just my opinion! You are entitled to your opinion just like I am. As I said there are more than one way to adapt a T5 to a early ford, I have mentioned what I don't care for about your kit and 2 others from my personal experience. Have you ever used one of the Bond adapters? And if so what did you like or dislike about it? Also you say I know nothing about your kit, Is this bell in my pic taken today laying in my shop floor with the drilled hole and metal cover bolted on it one of yours?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 32coupe

Gary, I meant no disrespect to you or what you sell, Also I forgot that the sleeve in your kit is in the throwout bearing and not pressed on the retainer. As a car builder I am always looking to improve something and find a better way, That's just how my mind works. And that is why I have done this conversion just about everyway possible. And for me No matter what I did and no matter how hard I tried to over complicate things I still found the simplest and best way was Dwight's adapter. So after buying and using the last ones he had even the ones he had saved back for himself I made a deal with him and now produce them. I never said your kit did not work and it works fine. But so does The old offenhauser and The speedway kit in most cases. For me personally Good is not good enough. I want the best! And for my experience and In my opinion there are better ways than your kit to do the T5 to early ford swap. It's just my opinion! You are entitled to your opinion just like I am. As I said there are more than one way to adapt a T5 to a early ford, I have mentioned what I don't care for about your kit and 2 others from my personal experience. Have you ever used one of the Bond adapters? And if so what did you like or dislike about it? Also you say I know nothing about your kit, Is this bell in my pic taken today laying in my shop floor with the drilled hole and metal cover bolted on it one of yours?

[Krylon32]

32 coupe: Hard to tell but I don't believe that is the bellhousing I am currently using. In the beginning I used Offenhauser but the fit of their bellhousings became a problem plus when the company changed hands their cost made them prohibitive to buy. I chose to go another direction with a better product. In you first article you mention the cost of my kit. I checked and you are getting $300 out of your plate. Not everyone has a hogshead laying around shop and on E-Bay the asking price for one plus shipping is around $200. Then you need a throwout brg hub with bearing $45-50 plus some form of adapter sleeve for the hub $25-30, pilot bearing or bushing $20, lower shaft $30-$45, fork $30, return spring$3 & bolts $10. If your customer has to obtain these items from an outside source soon the cost of your plate ventures into the area of what mine costs or surpasses it. I'm sure your plate works fine. I judge how mine works by the number of kits I've sold since the mid 90's.

[Tim Ayers]

Can someone post a picture of this hub/adaptor sleeve that is needed? I'm trying to visual this.

This piece goes over the bearing retainer of the T5 input shaft?

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

32 coupe: Hard to tell but I don't believe that is the bellhousing I am currently using. In the beginning I used Offenhauser but the fit of their bellhousings became a problem plus when the company changed hands their cost made them prohibitive to buy. I chose to go another direction with a better product. In you first article you mention the cost of my kit. I checked and you are getting $300 out of your plate. Not everyone has a hogshead laying around shop and on E-Bay the asking price for one plus shipping is around $200. Then you need a throwout brg hub with bearing $45-50 plus some form of adapter sleeve for the hub $25-30, pilot bearing or bushing $20, lower shaft $30-$45, fork $30, return spring$3 & bolts $10. If your customer has to obtain these items from an outside source soon the cost of your plate ventures into the area of what mine costs or surpasses it. I'm sure your plate works fine. I judge how mine works by the number of kits I've sold since the mid 90's.

Gary, You do not need a sleeve for the "Bond" adapter that I sell. As this is one of the best features that Dwight incorporated into his design. It uses the factory ford 32-48 ford bearing retainer (slides over the T5 bearing retainer and bolts on the plate just like factory) Since it is stock early ford part it also has the provisions for the return spring. So basically when you use my adapter plate with the 48-52 ford truck hogshead everything is just like a stock 32-48 ford transmission only thing different is the clutch disc. Also almost always when you source a factory hogshead it has the fork and lower shaft with it. The bell I showed in the pic above came from a Customer who I built a Worldclass T5 transmission with a 2.95 gear set for who said he purchased the kit from you and was tired of the S10 gear ratio. When he was here and saw what I was using on my own builds he wanted to go with one of my adapters. Which saved him a bunch of money because otherwise if he would have stuck with your bell he would have had to have a GM WorldClass case and they are not easy to find these days and when you do find them they are about $450-500.00. Since my adapter is made so you can use any T5 transmission there was no need to hunt and pay up for the GM only case. I have had this bell in my shop and on the shelf for a few years now. I only keep it to show my customers the pros and cons of the different options they have when doing this So they can decide for themselves which way they want to go.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Can someone post a picture of this hub/adaptor sleeve that is needed? I'm trying to visual this.

This piece goes over the bearing retainer of the T5 input shaft?

Yes, increasing the OD of the snout on the bearing retainer. In the picture below, it is the CYLINDRICAL-shaped piece farthest to the right in picture.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Can someone post a picture of this hub/adaptor sleeve that is needed? I'm trying to visual this.

This piece goes over the bearing retainer of the T5 input shaft?

Tim, that is what Speedway and Offy does. Your better off to do what Gary does and press a sleeve in the throwout bearing hub. If you do end up using a sleeve on the bearing retainer (from speedway) I would atleast put red locktite all over it or even a tack weld wouldn't hurt and even then you may still have problems down the road.

[Krylon32]

32 Coupe: I guess after this thread I might as well discontinue selling the kits I have left, quit running my ads on the Barn & HAMB, notify the machine shop to discontinue doing more bell housings and throw the remaining parts I have left in the scrap barrel. I have successfully sold these kits for about 30 years in numbers you wouldn't believe and now they have been deemed virtually useless by your claims of how superior your method is over my proven kit. The market for all the Hogs Head bell housings languishing in shops all over the country will skyrocket. That's OK, I'm 79 and have had a good run. Anything else I manufacture you'd like to demean?

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

32 Coupe: I guess after this thread I might as well discontinue selling the kits I have left, quit running my ads on the Barn & HAMB, notify the machine shop to discontinue doing more bell housings and throw the remaining parts I have left in the scrap barrel. I have successfully sold these kits for about 30 years in numbers you wouldn't believe and now they have been deemed virtually useless by your claims of how superior your method is over my proven kit. The market for all the Hogs Head bell housings languishing in shops all over the country will skyrocket. That's OK, I'm 79 and have had a good run. Anything else I manufacture you'd like to demean?

Man you need to get over yourself!! At 79 years old you should know better! I mean The nonsense in this last post makes you sound like a Cry baby toddler!! I myself and know one else here best I can tell is doing anything to hurt you. Bottomline is Keep selling your kit and be happy with that! There is no reason to start cry baby wining just because someone else offers another option or is doing something different. Dwight Bonds adapters have been out for about 30 years now! Nothing new here! Accept I made them available again. As a courtesy to you I did not post the other pic of the other bellhousing I keep here of a brand new Speedway motors bellhousing. Which 100 Percent came from the same mold as the bellhousing my customer Gave to me that he purchased from you. (even has the same imperfections in the casting) He never said one bad word about your kit He just decided he liked the Bond adapter setup better. And that fact alone warrants me or anyone else to compare your kit to the Offy, and Speedway kit. As aside from the few improvements you have made to it The adapter bellhousing is one in the same. Doesn't matter that you ground the Speedway logo off it or not. They still made it. This arguement is kinda like Ford and Chevy guys each one has their own opinion of which is better but at the end of the day they both will get you from point A to point B. Like I have said Your kit works and it works fine, But there are other and better options available. Modern Driveline makes a Nice adapter bell as well and like my adapter can be used for GM and Ford based T5's

[Ziggster]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Can someone post a picture of this hub/adaptor sleeve that is needed? I'm trying to visual this.

This piece goes over the bearing retainer of the T5 input shaft?

Here’s a couple pics of the sleeve pressed onto a new bearing retainer. The one Speedway sells will not work with the larger dia. needed for the early Ford TO bearing. I contacted them before I bit the bullet and had one custom machined.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Ziggster

Here’s a couple pics of the sleeve pressed onto a new bearing retainer. The one Speedway sells will not work with the larger dia. needed for the early Ford TO bearing. I contacted them before I bit the bullet and had one custom machined.

[Krylon32]

Cry Baby, you haven't got a clue. Until today I have made it a point to my knowledge not criticize other peoples products, but today you changed that. I think I'll quit while your ahead. I know when I'm beat. My life will go on without selling the T5 kits. It's been a good run.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Ziggster, What bellhousing are you using? Just wondering since you used the ford t5 bearing retainer Did you turn it down to fit a Speedway bellhousing?

[Ziggster]

I have a 59A and used a Hogs Head and MDL adapter. No further mod to the bearing retainer other than the adding the sleeve.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Ziggster

I have the orig Ford truck trans that came with my 59A “industrial engine”. IIRC, that bearing retainer will not fit the Ford WC T5 I have. This is why I ordered an all steel new bearing retainer and had to have a sleeve machined for it so I could use an early Ford TO bearing.

You could have ordered the S10 T5 Bearing retainer as it will fit on any T5 and you could have used the Speedway sleeve. However as I posted above pressing a sleeve in the throwout bearing hub Like Cornhusker does is a better idea than pressing a sleeve on the retainer IMO anyhow, Far less likely to have troubles down the road as many guys who put real mileage on their cars have with those type of setups. On the Bond adapter it uses a original early ford bearing retainer and it fits over a s10 T5 bearing retainer perfectly and bolts to the adapter plate just like it bolts to a early ford transmission.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Ziggster

I have a 59A and used a Hogs Head and MDL adapter. No further mod to the bearing retainer other than the adding the sleeve.

That should work just fine. What I mentioned about the sleeves is in the past guys have had trouble with them getting loose and turning on the bearing retainer. So with MDL's hogshead plate you had to use the ford bearing retainer because it is machined for it. Does MDL not offer a press sleeve or Do they want you to buy their Throwout bearing? I haven't spoke to him in awhile but Paul at MDL is a good Guy and very Knowledgeable. Scratch what I said above as I did not know you were using the MDL hogshead adapter.

[Ziggster]

Originally Posted by 32coupe

You could have ordered the S10 T5 Bearing retainer as it will fit on any T5 and you could have used the Speedway sleeve. However as I posted above pressing a sleeve in the throwout bearing hub Like Cornhusker does is a better idea than pressing a sleeve on the retainer IMO anyhow, Far less likely to have troubles down the road as many guys who put real mileage on their cars have with those type of setups. On the Bond adapter it uses a original early ford bearing retainer and it fits over a s10 T5 bearing retainer perfectly and bolts to the adapter plate just like it bolts to a early ford transmission.

Not sure what you are referring to? Could you please clarify? When I went down the road I did, I contacted MDL, Speedway, Hanlon Motorsport, and posted on here and the HAMB IIRC with regards to my dilemma of using a Ford T5 with the early Ford TO bearing. The only solution suggested by all was to use a sleeve on the bearing retainer/TO hub.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Ziggster

Not sure what you are referring to? Could you please clarify? When I went down the road I did, I contacted MDL, Speedway, Hanlon Motorsport, and posted on here and the HAMB IIRC with regards to my dilemma of using a Ford T5 with the early Ford TO bearing. The only solution suggested by all was to use a sleeve on the bearing retainer/TO hub.

Here is a pic of Garys (cornhuskers kit) look at the throw out bearing. He presses a sleeve in the throwout bearing hub that fits on the T5 bearing retainer rather than pressing a sleeve on the bearing retainer to fit the early ford throwout bearing.

[Ziggster]

Ok. Thanks. I get it now. Would have never thought of it. Lol! Seems like like a better solution if done right, but I’m not worried about the sleeve coming loose on my bearing retainer.

[Ziggster]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I’ve said it on the HAMB before, and I’ll mention here because as a complete Ford flathead novice, I just couldn’t believe that there was nothing off-the-shelf in terms of a sleeve to make use of the Ford T5. I felt as though I was the first person in the world mating the two together. One reason I guess for this is the fact that probably 95 plus percent of folks using a T5 behind a flathead are going the S10 T5 route.

[Krylon32]

32 Coupe: Got curious about you so I checked with a friend in KC. I believe your Cowtown Speed Shop on the HAMB? Just received a response to my inquiry.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

32 Coupe: Got curious about you so I checked with a friend in KC. I believe your Cowtown Speed Shop on the HAMB? Just received a response to my inquiry.

Gary, I am unsure why you would be curious about me. Not like I am anybody special or anything. I tried to explain over and over that I in no way meant to offend you or hurt your feelings in anyway. This is a discussion Forum and in this thread you right off the bat started getting defensive. Go back to page one and read, You didn't start with me You started with "V8coopman" he just like me was just trying to be helpful. And because for whatever reason you didn't like what was being said you go into attack mode and start acting like a jerk. Or atleast the way your post read sounded like it anyhow. Bottomline is as I have already said you are entitled to your opinion, But so is everyone else on this site. I have no hard feelings towards you. Also I have to give you credit on your impressive Detective work on who you think I might be on the HAMB. Can I ask what your first clue was? Was it maybe the fact that it clearly says Cowtown Speed Shop on my Adapter plate? LOL Now I am just poking friendly fun at you. It's all good as far as I am concerned.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

32 Coupe: Got curious about you so I checked with a friend in KC. I believe your Cowtown Speed Shop on the HAMB? Just received a response to my inquiry.

Man, I just typed "Cowtown Speed Shop" into my browser, and my PC just about jumped off the desk. I'd keep your kits going Gary, for what it's worth!

Coop


.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Man, I just typed "Cowtown Speed Shop" into my browser, and my PC just about jumped off the desk. I'd keep your kits going Gary, for what it's worth!

Coop


.

Fair enough, And I agree with you he should keep selling his kit. I went though a Bad time in my life and because of some Bad choices I made years ago They still haunt me today. But I have made good with 3 of the 4 People I did wrong. And I tried to make good with the 4th. However he would not let me no matter how hard I tried. but he did chime in on the thread and say that as far as he was concerned we were good. There is a lot of made up nonsense from the "#Me too" group on the hamb. Some of them don't even know what my name is let alone had ever had any dealings with me. Oh well I can't change the past nor am I gonna try. That was along time ago and a dark time in my life. I am not perfect nor have I ever claimed to be. None of that applies here on this discussion anyhow. To Anyone of you who has never done things they regret in life or has never done someone else wrong. Well my hats off to you, You are a better person than most.

[petehoovie]

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 32coupe

Here is a pic of Garys (cornhuskers kit) look at the throw out bearing. He presses a sleeve in the throwout bearing hub that fits on the T5 bearing retainer rather than pressing a sleeve on the bearing retainer to fit the early ford throwout bearing.

[ssffnomad]

Gentlemen, how are the Yankees looking this year ?

[tubman]

I was considering a T5 for my '51 as well. Then I realized that at my age, I would prefer shifting less, not more.

I opted to install a stock OD setup.

[flathead47]

There is one other option instead of the hogs head & that is the one year only 1951 mercury bell that has the stock cross shaft & throw out fork. You need the same year starter plate. A simple flat adaptor plate is made to attach the bell & T5 together

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by flathead47

There is one other option instead of the hogs head & that is the one year only 1951 mercury bell that has the stock cross shaft & throw out fork. You need the same year starter plate. A simple flat adaptor plate is made to attach the bell & T5 together

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by flathead47

There is one other option instead of the hogs head & that is the one year only 1951 mercury bell that has the stock cross shaft & throw out fork. You need the same year starter plate. A simple flat adaptor plate is made to attach the bell & T5 together

flathead47, Your right This is another good option as long as you are using a 49-52 motor. I have used this Bellhousing before with a 1/2 steel plate to adapt it to the T5. worked well

[Tim Ayers]

What about the full sized stamped steel bellhousing found on on some late models as well? I'd assume that would would too.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

What about the full sized stamped steel bellhousing found on on some late models as well? I'd assume that would would too.

Tim, Depends on what you are putting it in as it doesn't work well in the earlier fords because it doesn't have the internal cross shaft and fork, Also like the merc bell you are limited to the 49-53 motors. Could you use it? Probably so, But there are better suited options

[Pete]

There is a very simple adaption of a T5 to an 8ba block that you seldom hear about.
A Lakewood steel bell housing for a SBC was clamped and dialed in on the back of an 8ba block, then re-drilled to mate to the block.
All of the rest of the installation behind the block was stock parts. Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, fork and bearing. Absolutely no mods to the transmission.

The only thing maybe keeping people from this adaption is, you need to modify an aluminum SBC flywheel by plugging one mounting hole and re-drilling the flange to flathead Ford.
Then fabricating a mounting bracket for the starter.
I used a mini starter but a stock one would work ok.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 32coupe

Tim, Depends on what you are putting it in as it doesn't work well in the earlier fords because it doesn't have the internal cross shaft and fork, Also like the merc bell you are limited to the 49-53 motors. Could you use it? Probably so, But there are better suited options

Thank you. Yes, I was referring to 8BA motors.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

What about the full sized stamped steel bellhousing found on on some late models as well? I'd assume that would would too.

Didn't "Ol' Ron" post about this a while ago? I seem to remember that he re-drilled one hole and welded a tab onto a shoebox bellhousing and it worked for the post '48 cars.

[KJ714]

Probably a ford 8 inch, I have a couple laying around.

[Ziggster]

I don’t have a dog in this fight on whether one should use the S10 vs a Ford T5, but a HAMBER who’ve I personally met just recently posted that he was wishing to swap the gear set in his S10 T5. He doesn’t have a flathead, but mentioned first gear was useless.
In my OT project a couple years back I realized the gearing of the auto 3sp trans would result in around a 3,000 rpm highway cruising speed. I then decided to do the 5.3/4L80 swap due to the orig engine being woefully under powered and a gas guzzler (IH 345). I even ordered new R&P gear sets from Yukon so that at crushing speeds of about 70 mph, the engine was doing around 2,100 rpm. For me, this was imperative as I recall the days I had a 73 Ford Bronco with a 302/ 3 sp auto and 4.11 gears. It was brutal cruising at highway speeds with the engine winding out at 3,000 rpm. My point being is that folks should really look closely at the engine/trans/diff combo to ensure they have the correct gearing so that they can have maximum enjoyment from their vehicle.

[32coupe]

Your friend is correct! the S10 4.03 1st gear is pretty much useless. The problem with the S10 transmissions is that the bulk of them were Non World Class T5's (1984-1992) And they are decent transmissions However The World Class T5's are better They are stronger and they shift smoother. All ford T5's accept 1984 are World class units. 1993-95 S10 T5's are all World Class however the only S10 World Class T5's that has the GM Muncie style case bolt pattern is the one year only 1993 2.8 V6 T5. The 4cyl S10's in 93 had the Ford style case bolt pattern as well as the 94-95 S10's. Now you may be wondering why does it matter if your T5 has a GM or ford bolt pattern on the case if your going to adapt it anyhow. Well that is because most of the adapters out there are made for the GM Muncie bolt pattern case. There are only a few adapters out there that will let you use the Ford type T5 case. MDL makes one Old time speed makes one and I make one (Mine will use the ford or GM type case) so it doesn't matter which transmission you choose You can adapt it. My suggestion these days is buy whichever Worldclass T5 comes your way first and modify it to what you ultimately want it to be. Don't settle for the shitty factory S10 gears, Swap in a set of 1988-92 Camaro or 1993 Cobra 2.95 Gear set and cruise the wheels off your hotrod. There are going to be guys say "I been running a 89 s10 transmission without any problems for years and I love it" That's fine! But they just don't know what they are missing as if they had a good gear set in their car they would love it even more.

[V8COOPMAN]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by 32coupe

Swap in a set of 1988-92 Camaro or 1993 Cobra 2.95 Gear set and cruise the wheels off your hotrod. There are going to be guys say "I been running a 89 s10 transmission without any problems for years and I love it" That's fine! But they just don't know what they are missing as if they had a good gear set in their car they would love it even more.

To get an idea of what a REAL close-ratio gear set sounds like in the real world, listen to the SHIFT POINTS of this Muncie with a close ratio gear set starting at about the 1:25 mark. No big drops in RPMs, and the feel of the steady pull is just utter perfection! "32coupe" is right. If anyone tried a well-thought-out set of gears just once, they'd never look back. Go to the 1:25 mark in the link BELOW!

Coop

https://youtu.be/2p6gTyW1Hzw


.

[Bored&Stroked]

Couple questions (and it has been covered before, but I'm not sure where). If you have an S-10 trans with an electronic speedo, what is the "right way" to convert it over to mechanical speedo?

Can you use the same rear case? Do you need a different rear mainshaft (if so, where can one buy one)? Are there mods to "retrofit" the electronic setup to a manual setup. I just picked up a 2.95 geared S-10 (GM bolt-pattern) - need to figure out the "rest of the picture". Thanks!

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Couple questions (and it has been covered before, but I'm not sure where). If you have an S-10 trans with an electronic speedo, what is the "right way" to convert it over to mechanical speedo?

Can you use the same rear case? Do you need a different rear mainshaft (if so, where can one buy one)? Are there mods to "retrofit" the electronic setup to a manual setup. I just picked up a 2.95 geared S-10 (GM bolt-pattern) - need to figure out the "rest of the picture". Thanks!

Dale,

I could be totally off base, but I thought I recall Gary from Cornhuskers mentioning some type of converter that could be used for the electronic speedos.

[Bored&Stroked]

Thanks Tim! If I have to do some "custom work" to the current mainshaft - not a problem. I think I'll take it apart when I get back to Ohio and "explore" the problem. Hopefully some others have some guidance (at least on parts required) to handle the issue - or maybe a custom solution is the best way.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Thanks Tim! If I have to do some "custom work" to the current mainshaft - not a problem. I think I'll take it apart when I get back to Ohio and "explore" the problem. Hopefully some others have some guidance (at least on parts required) to handle the issue - or maybe a custom solution is the best way.

Let's us know what you found out. I also jumped into the T5 game by finally locating an affordable Jeep T5. Now the fun begins in making it all work.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Thanks Tim! If I have to do some "custom work" to the current mainshaft - not a problem. I think I'll take it apart when I get back to Ohio and "explore" the problem. Hopefully some others have some guidance (at least on parts required) to handle the issue - or maybe a custom solution is the best way.

Dale & Tim ...... No promises here guys, and I most certainly DO NOT have the definitive answer that you both require. BUT ..... I have already sent e-mails this morning to some people that should be in the 'KNOW' about this subject, and I'm dying to get back to both of you (and whomever else is interested) with some good, valid information. I'm workin' on it, guys.

I read both of your replies to the two different "T5" articles that came-up on the forum yesterday evening. Although I have had quite a few 'Barners contact me over the past few years about T5-stuff in general as well as pertaining to the torque tube aspect of all this, you two are the first "hardened", dyed-in-the-wool F'Barn folks that have seemed to show any REAL-WORLD interest in any possibility of marrying a T5 with a torque tube. I have been amazed at the seeming LACK of interest in the subject over the past few years. The ONLY serious car guy I know of that has married a Jeep T5 with a torque tube is Cory Taulbert that did it in his '32 5W coupe some time back and had amassed several thousands of miles last I heard. Note via the picture below that Cory's coupe is powered by one of those orange, UN-flatheads, but there's no difference in the end result whether using Brand X or a Henry flathead. It's all glued to the front end of a 'Henry' TORQUE TUBE.

DIRECTLY BELOW is a link to Cory's T5/Torque Tube Build in his '32!


https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/....994231/page-9

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Couple questions (and it has been covered before, but I'm not sure where). If you have an S-10 trans with an electronic speedo, what is the "right way" to convert it over to mechanical speedo?

Can you use the same rear case? Do you need a different rear mainshaft (if so, where can one buy one)? Are there mods to "retrofit" the electronic setup to a manual setup. I just picked up a 2.95 geared S-10 (GM bolt-pattern) - need to figure out the "rest of the picture". Thanks!

Your mainshaft will work, You just need to remove the reluctor and put on a GM 7 tooth mech gear and clip. As far as the housing goes you need to mill down and weld in a fill piece, then machine a new hole at the correct angle for the bullet and plastic worm drive. If you have never done it and are only going to do one It is better to buy a new aftermarket housing from Allstate or send your housing to Alloyspeicalties and have them convert it for you. If you need any contact info or any help feel free to PM me.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Couple questions (and it has been covered before, but I'm not sure where). If you have an S-10 trans with an electronic speedo, what is the "right way" to convert it over to mechanical speedo?

Can you use the same rear case? Do you need a different rear mainshaft (if so, where can one buy one)? Are there mods to "retrofit" the electronic setup to a manual setup. I just picked up a 2.95 geared S-10 (GM bolt-pattern) - need to figure out the "rest of the picture". Thanks!

This is what needs to be done to the tailhousing to convert it to mechanical speedo.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 32coupe

This is what needs to be done to the tailhousing to convert it to mechanical speedo.