speed parts on the banger

[crotex]

I was looking in the Snyder's catolog and saw all the different things that I could buy for my A engine. The list of things I would really like to add to my STOCK engine is the finned aluminum high compression head, wither the 2 or 3 finned aluminum downdraft carb intake with carbs., The finned aluminum timing cover, finned aluminum side plate, modern style distributor cab and wires, and dual exhaust or a header. If I did these things how much power could my enging be making then and what would a good cruising speed be then? also what else there to do?
What are the best upgrades and which have the most effect??

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by crotex

What are the best upgrades and which have the most effect??

Drop in a small block V8, dropped axle, juice brakes, od tranny.....

Seriously, the first thing you need to decide is what do you want from your Model A?

Do you want an 80 year old car that has all the charm and grace that the lady had back in its day, do you want a daily driver that will go and stop like a modern car, or maybe a racer for vintage style racing?

There is ALOT of room in there.

This site was designed by it's owner to lean way over to the restoration side and his site HAMB is designed for the modified side.

I say this because once you decide what you want to do with your car/engine you may get more answers from one site than the other.

So what do you want to do?

[Ross/Kzoo]

You're asking these questions about more power and speed. What upgrades are going to use to stop it?

[Mitch//pa]

dont you need it to run first??

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

You're asking these questions about more power and speed. What upgrades are going to use to stop it?

Ross, I am going to comment on something you said, --NOT in criticism, but more as an observation I recently made. Two weeks ago my wife & I were down in Florida on a Winter Tour with our 1916 Model T making a 40 mile drive back to the hotel after spending the day out in horse country. I was leading the group I was in (about 5 cars) and we were running along at about 40 mph on a lightly-trafficed 4-lane divided highway when I saw two brass-era Model T Touring cars come by us running about 50 mph. They gracefully pulled back into our lane as their passengers waved at us, and I watched them for a few moments as they slowly disappeared out of sight. I too thought to myself the same thing about them having 2-wheel brakes and how are they going to stop, but as they came to the next town, they did the same thing that I did and drove prudently to the car's capabilities while in heavier traffic. My point is, just because we have a stronger "horse" under the hood of our Model A doesn't necessarily mean we must use it in all driving situations. I am of the opinion that correctly rebuilt mechanical brakes, ...along with other correctly restored original components (steering, suspension, etc.) can capably control a Model A being driven at speeds of 60-65 mph under prudent operating conditions.

Crotex, to comment on your question(s), in all true honesty your Model A if rebuilt (restored) to factory standards should be able to run for extended periods at 60 mph. If it won't do that now, IMHO you need to make appropriate corrections so it will. And, adding 'bling' such as finned covers or modern distributor caps and wires will not allow it to run any faster. I must agree with Mike that if you are wanting to build a hot rod, these questions have been answered many times over on H.A.M.B. and by searching for Banger over there will allow you to read extensively about what you can do and which present the most value.

.


(BTW, when I spoke with one of the owners of the Model T that passed us, he commented that it had a Model A crank fitted inside the T block, a high compression head, larger carburetor and a 3:1 rear end gear ratio. He told me that it liked to cruise between 50-55 mph which when he was out on the open roads with light traffic, which he did with frequency. I might also add that upon opening the hood, the appearance of his engine would fool 95% of most folks into thinking it was a totally stock Model T engine!)

.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Mitch beat me to it, "don't you need it to run first"?

Of the things you listed, NONE will add to the durability of the engine, and only two will add a little horsepower. As Brent said, the rest is "bling".

How come no one offers a hood scoop for the Model A?

[Tinker]

I'm no expert but you put a dual downdraft carb setup on a stock engine I think you'll just get bad gas mileage, well if it'll run for you at all. But I'm no expert.

Better approach is an overdrive unit and better brakes.

Here's a couple of links for you.

http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...upgrades+power

http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...upgrades+power

[Kurt in NJ]

The finned covers are needed for stability at speeds over 80 ---if only Bill Stipe made finned covers for his shocks---

[Logan]

Like many have already said your not going to get anything from the "bling" or finned accessories except for the finned high comp head. If you want power go out and order a 3/4 race cam, high comp head, weber down draft carb, header/dual exhaust, and centrifical advance electronic ignition, high speed rear end, AND get your brakes working perfectly before you do all this. All these mods will cost probably around 2500-3000 if you do the work yourself. Speed (or hp) isnt cheap when it comes to these old model a's. I too like seeing what little mods i can make to see what gives it more power, but i also respect the people who restore these cars to original/finepoint.

[Bill O'Brien]

Check out my thread on the Winfield Head. Consider the Weber carb set up.... I also have a thread on performance carb options.

You will definitely want a leak-less water pump and modern 't-bolt' hose clamps.... chack my thread on those too

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Bill O'Brien

... modern 't-bolt' hose clamps....

Which ones did you end up ordering?

[mjw]

You really want to ask these questions here http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=565865

but I would read all the Banger meeting threads before posting.

[Milton]

Originally Posted by crotex

What are the best upgrades and which have the most effect??

http://www.modelaparts.net/dynosheet...ynosheets.html

Fins are for fish and believe me I would rather clean a fish than a finned timing cover.

[Jason in TX]

^^^ HAHA! No kidding! Good one! ^^

[Sparky]

I won a finned aluminum timing cover at a show. I haven't installed it yet. It looks nice, but I was wondering how long it would stay clean.

[rmak]

Just wanted to add my 2 cents for the original poster. I bought my model A already partially done in the prewar hot rod "banger" style, and I intend to finish it that way. It's a very cool trend, in my opinion. The cars are kept relatively stock and harkens back to a time when ingenuity, not money, was the major investment in hot rod cars.

That said, I found out in a hurry that this is primarily a traditional restoration site, but an invaluable resource since people like us are doing a lot of restoration work along with tinkering on the engine. When I want hop-up info, I visit the previously suggested HAMB forum. They have banger threads going all the time. You have several years of reading to catch up on. Great stuff!

[Tim]

Boy where to start,

If you put a 6:5 compression head on it you'll gain the most for your money. Add a castiron header and you get a little more, When you put the downdraft on it, you might as well put the more modern ignition on it. All these things make them run much better for a cruising car. However don't stop there as a V8 gearbox and 3:54 rear end will also add much to the enjoyment of your A. Now I know I have said this amongst many purists opinions, so some flak may come this way. Not that I don't appreciate a finely restored model A in its purest form. But I think your question is more geared to have a little fun with the Banger and enjoy your car more for your style. There's nothing wrong with any of it just make it for you. But they are right about driving it first, you need a place to start from and there's no better than stock.


Good luck,

Tim

PS-fins really are for Fish, go sleeper it's always more fun

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by rmak

Just wanted to add my 2 cents for the original poster. I bought my model A already partially done in the prewar hot rod "banger" style, and I intend to finish it that way. It's a very cool trend, in my opinion. The cars are kept relatively stock and harkens back to a time when ingenuity, not money, was the major investment in hot rod cars.

That said, I found out in a hurry that this is primarily a traditional restoration site, but an invaluable resource since people like us are doing a lot of restoration work along with tinkering on the engine. When I want hop-up info, I visit the previously suggested HAMB forum. They have banger threads going all the time. You have several years of reading to catch up on. Great stuff!

Nice commentary. I do have a question for you. You mention that Pre War Banger-style hot rod is a cool trend, however are you of the opinion this style that we see built is actually being authentically replicated today? Was it actually "pre-war" or "post-war" too?

I have looked for pictures to document the exact look that many claim was, as you put it, the trend yet I am not seeing them "pre-war" (--either here or on HAMB). Do you have any that you can share that would substantiate this date or time?

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by crotex

I was looking in the Snyder's catolog and saw all the different things that I could buy for my A engine. The list of things I would really like to add to my STOCK engine is the finned aluminum high compression head, wither the 2 or 3 finned aluminum downdraft carb intake with carbs., The finned aluminum timing cover, finned aluminum side plate, modern style distributor cab and wires, and dual exhaust or a header. If I did these things how much power could my enging be making then and what would a good cruising speed be then? also what else there to do?
What are the best upgrades and which have the most effect??

What you want to do is good, but you need bigger intake valves, a nice cam from Bill Stipe or Jim Brierley, Some port work. Then if you want to run it hard a lot, you should go with a counter weighted crank, light flyweel. How much power depends on a lot of things. As a guess I would say 60 or a little more, if you do the valves and cam. If you just want a nice running engine with more power, go with a Ford 6 carb from a Flathead along with a 6-1 head. For me I do not care for the weber carb, each to there own.

[Jason in TX]

pre-war shots

[rmak]

Thanks, Brent. I guess I view bangers as a trend only because I've gotten back into cars after being into motorcycling and motorcycle restoration for about 40 years. When I quit hot rodding, the 'trend' was giant engines, lots of chrome and distorting the original lines of the cars. I grew up around cars because my family was in the automotive business. My older brother was much more of a traditional hot rodder and I grew up reading his black and white hot rod magazines and saw many early rods. Of course I ignored them for the most part because I was interested in 427 cubic inch engines at the time. But with my background these early rods were and are very 'cool' to me now. I enjoy that the pendulum has swung away from high end totally reworked 32 fords. I know I am enjoying the heck out of my four cylinder hot rod.
As far as photo references, I easily found this by sorting on HAMB. I think guys started modifying cars as soon as they became available and affordable. So it was prewar, postwar and continues even today.

[cannon]

every one else has idea's now i am going to take a turn: i have a 29 ccpu, with all the "neat" go fast stuff, have spent a TON of $$ in doing all the mods, that have been addressed, including the S-10 transmission, yes the truck really get's the attention (good and bad), it was something that i thought i really wanted: now i wish someone really wanted to trade for a nice stock 29 ccpu. the fun has long gone out of this "truck", cannot take it on a trip, what happens if it breaks down? where will i ever get repair parts, had it on the interstate at 75mph, was not "fun" or i am over the hill. if spending a lot of money is you bag, go for it, you will wish one day that you had the $$$$ and time spent invested somewhere else....a nice stock coupe maybe

[rmak]

Originally Posted by cannon

every one else has idea's now i am going to take a turn: i have a 29 ccpu, with all the "neat" go fast stuff, have spent a TON of $$ in doing all the mods, that have been addressed, including the S-10 transmission, yes the truck really get's the attention (good and bad), it was something that i thought i really wanted: now i wish someone really wanted to trade for a nice stock 29 ccpu. the fun has long gone out of this "truck", cannot take it on a trip, what happens if it breaks down? where will i ever get repair parts, had it on the interstate at 75mph, was not "fun" or i am over the hill. if spending a lot of money is you bag, go for it, you will wish one day that you had the $$$$ and time spent invested somewhere else....a nice stock coupe maybe

I think the Buddha said desire causes suffering. As soon as you get what you want, you want something else. Unfortunately, it's human nature.

I advise against evaluating your past hobbies in dollars and cents. Why begrudge yourself for doing something you once enjoyed? The only real value is in your health and your family anyhow. Everything else is a pleasant temporary diversion.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

OK I agree to only an extent, ...however wouldn't you agree this really is not representing what we are seeing being built today under the name of Pre-War Hot Rods. Restored Tudor Sedans with the tops hacked off to make Tubs while using Banger motors??? Sport Coupes & etc. chopped up to make 'quasi hi-boy street roadsters'??? Bodies channelled over the frame where the rear wheels are taller than the deck lid???

...and most of what you are showing above were actual race cars, --not Roadsters that have the running boards taken off yet leaving the body aprons on. Notice the '29 Roadster still has full fenders on (as I find most street driven hot rods were), and the two shots of the '31 has stock manifolds and distributors, ...with no finned covers or finned head. Also, based on the catalogs I have secured over the years (Bell, etc.) shows most of the speed equipment Ansen, Burns, Mallory Dual-Point, etc.) was actually manufactured in the '50s which is definitely post-war.

.

[Jason in TX]

People in the know are also not calling those "pre-war hot rods" They are being calling those "Art cars" or a wreck waiting to happen. This is a never ending discussion over on the HAMB, people arguing what is "traditional" and what is not.

I basically see traditional hot rodding as another form of restoration. Restoring a car that was modified in the 40s / 50s. I also think that if you aren't doing it using parts from that era, then you are not doing it properly. Other people take liberties with the hobby saying that what they are doing is also traditional, but I tend to keep walking past a car like that. It's just not that interesting to me.

I do have a picture of a dirt track racer friend of mine that ran in the late 40s who showed up with a 35 Ford sedan. They said it was a roadster race only, so he cut the roof off so that he could race. he told me that after the race, he welded the roof on again for another closed car race.

People did hack these cars up back then also, because they were just an old car. Now they are often restored to better than assembly line condition. It's all subjective. It makes me sad and angry to see the car abortions calling themselves "traditional" but it's their toy and money to play with. It's all just stuff. It just makes your Tudor with the roof still on it that much more rare, right?

[rmak]

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Ha, ha. Now I get you, Brent. You're saying that if people were really into pre-war banger rods they'd only be using the speed equipment available at the time. You are a restorer through and through! That's hard to argue with. I can only say that the new stuff is fun.

From my memory, though, the idea of a pure race car back then wasn't so cut and dried. Guys would drive their cars to a race event, tape or remove their headlights, take off body parts, race around, put everything back and drive home to use their cars to go to work the next day. The idea of the average person having more than one car (or phone, or tv or pair of jeans) came later.

I totally agree that the idea of butchering a perfectly good body style is a crappy idea. As a motorcycle restorer I cringe when anyone chops a perfectly restorable classic bike. Making or approximating period correct modifications is OK, like making a Norton Manx for example.

That's why I don't understand why the hot rod guys are so against fiberglass reproductions. It's a perfectly good basis for a hot rod and is no more "fake" than a metal reproduction. They should embrace repro bodies and parts as a way of maintaining the limited number of originals in an original state.

[V4F]

the pix above are only of roadsters . there were coupes & tudors hot rodded also . maybe not for the dry lakes but for crusing . i built mine on that order . pre-war cruzzer ..................... steve

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by rmak

Ha, ha. Now I get you, Brent. You're saying that if people were really into pre-war banger rods they'd only be using the speed equipment available at the time. You are a restorer through and through! That's hard to argue with. I can only say that the new stuff is fun.

From my memory, though, the idea of a pure race car back then wasn't so cut and dried. Guys would drive their cars to a race event, tape or remove their headlights, take off body parts, race around, put everything back and drive home to use their cars to go to work the next day. The idea of the average person having more than one car (or phone, or tv or pair of jeans) came later.

I totally agree that the idea of butchering a perfectly good body style is a crappy idea. As a motorcycle restorer I cringe when anyone chops a perfectly restorable classic bike. Making or approximating period correct modifications is OK, like making a Norton Manx for example.

That's why I don't understand why the hot rod guys are so against fiberglass reproductions. It's a perfectly good basis for a hot rod and is no more "fake" than a metal reproduction. They should embrace repro bodies and parts as a way of maintaining the limited number of originals in an original state.

Nahh, I think the "ha ha" may be flipped back onto you in that regard but thanks for the comment as I will take it as a compliment if you don't mind!

I will say however, for those who truly know me will tell you I am NOT a "restorer through & through" and below are a few pictures of some of my cars that prove just that!! Now I will also be quick to tell you that I do like authenticity and the challenge that it provides to replicate that, --and I do tout it strongly here on this forum however I think Jason stated what I was thinking/suggesting very nicely.

.
.

[rmak]

Very cool cars, Brent. And yes, it was meant as a compliment.

[nostalgicford]

Speaking from my own eperience....I to like you guys thought how kewl to put all this speed equipment on a 4 banger....I put on a Thomas Alumn head and I have a Weind on another engine...I have a Burns downdraft and 94...Mallory dual pt....Reds headers...I have everything that can be bolted on either chrome or polished Alumn....BUT !!! I just thought I had a hot rod 4 Banger until I drove Ron Kelly's little rust bucket RPU....AND!!!! LIKE ME IF YOU PUT ALL THAT JUNK ON YOUR ENGINE YOUR GOINA BE LOOKIN FOR A MOTOR REBUILDER VERY SOON !!!!!!!!!!!! the ole babbit beater can't handle that torque.... I have alot of speed equipment that will be FOR SALE soon to help pay for a inserted that will run a cast iron B head and a stock carb and distr.

[kelley's restoration]

Originally Posted by nostalgicford

Speaking from my own eperience....I to like you guys thought how kewl to put all this speed equipment on a 4 banger....I put on a Thomas Alumn head and I have a Weind on another engine...I have a Burns downdraft and 94...Mallory dual pt....Reds headers...I have everything that can be bolted on either chrome or polished Alumn....BUT !!! I just thought I had a hot rod 4 Banger until I drove Ron Kelly's little rust bucket RPU....AND!!!! LIKE ME IF YOU PUT ALL THAT JUNK ON YOUR ENGINE YOUR GOINA BE LOOKIN FOR A MOTOR REBUILDER VERY SOON !!!!!!!!!!!! the ole babbit beater can't handle that torque.... I have alot of speed equipment that will be FOR SALE soon to help pay for a inserted that will run a cast iron B head and a stock carb and distr.

put me in line for the thomas head then
lol
tk

[rmak]

Originally Posted by nostalgicford

AND!!!! LIKE ME IF YOU PUT ALL THAT JUNK ON YOUR ENGINE YOUR GOINA BE LOOKIN FOR A MOTOR REBUILDER VERY SOON !!!!!!!!!!!! the ole babbit beater can't handle that torque....

I figure the only thing we have to fear is fear itself. Looking forward to your sale!

[modelAsteve]

What we forget is that these cars were 10 years old! 1931 to 1941 fits the "pre-war" period. Do we care about a 2001 Ford XKZ36 what ever? I don't!

[jerry shook]

On my 31 s/w . I put a t-5 trans , lightened fly wheel v8 clutch and pressure plate, 5-5 head ,2- barrell down draft carb , f/s dist, fuel puwp, electric fuel cut off, 16 in wheels and tires, poesi superslide springs, flat head teds brakes. Love it . Its your car do what you wont to do and enjoy. God bless

[Milton]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

How come no one offers a hood scoop for the Model A?

Because it would be unseamly.

[Milton]

Originally Posted by jerry shook

On my 31 s/w . I put a t-5 trans , lightened fly wheel v8 clutch and pressure plate, 5-5 head ,2- barrell down draft carb , f/s dist, fuel puwp, electric fuel cut off, 16 in wheels and tires, poesi superslide springs, flat head teds brakes. Love it . Its your car do what you wont to do and enjoy. God bless

How are those Posie superslides working out, is there a noticable difference?

[jerry shook]

Milton. The poise springs ride great . Lot of difference.

[Milton]

Originally Posted by jerry shook

Milton. The poise springs ride great . Lot of difference.

Just what I wanted to hear. Music to my ears.

[Lowbuckboz]

I would consider this pre-war. I used no parts newer than 1942.

[pick]

Lots of interesting opinions & connebtary. I too like the "traditional" hopped up "A"s as I remember the high school guys driving when I was an elementary student. Many drove old model "A" cars that were "warmed up". Mine is and I drive the wheels off of it, It's a tudor built for cruising. Other than the black 'hyde interior and 16" 35 Ford wheels with radials it "looks" stock. But it has the truck overdrive tranny, ductile iron brakes (so it stops well), but the motor is hopped up as I can afford; currently with BF 5.9 head, electronic ignition inside stock appearing distributor, twin downdrafts, header, leakless pump etc. etc. It's a car I enjoy for touring, can take to hill climbs, etc. Plenty of room to load up for a trip with the little lady or haul friends and grandkids. It's the best of both worlds, reliable. It's a hobby folks. Enjoy it!

[AKsportcoupe]

My opinion:
Forget the finned bling. Honor the car. Keep it real.

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by Lowbuckboz

I would consider this pre-war. I used no parts newer than 1942.

I like it looks just right.

[1931 flamingo]

Yes!! It does.
Paul in CT

[rmak]

I believe those tires were made relatively recently, but that's just nit picking. That is a beautiful coupe!

[denis4x4]

Here's an original pre war CRAGAR head and a Stromberg-Bendix downdraft available in 1931.

[tiquer]

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Originally Posted by rmak

Ha, ha. Now I get you, Brent. You're saying that if people were really into pre-war banger rods they'd only be using the speed equipment available at the time. You are a restorer through and through! That's hard to argue with. I can only say that the new stuff is fun.

From my memory, though, the idea of a pure race car back then wasn't so cut and dried. Guys would drive their cars to a race event, tape or remove their headlights, take off body parts, race around, put everything back and drive home to use their cars to go to work the next day. The idea of the average person having more than one car (or phone, or tv or pair of jeans) came later.

I totally agree that the idea of butchering a perfectly good body style is a crappy idea. As a motorcycle restorer I cringe when anyone chops a perfectly restorable classic bike. Making or approximating period correct modifications is OK, like making a Norton Manx for example.

That's why I don't understand why the hot rod guys are so against fiberglass reproductions. It's a perfectly good basis for a hot rod and is no more "fake" than a metal reproduction. They should embrace repro bodies and parts as a way of maintaining the limited number of originals in an original state.

Some times the car or truck found behind the barn or out in a field is too far gone or missing too many parts for a proper restoration and I feel it is better to hot rod than to crush. I do agree with of course not chopping cutting or changeing a car in already good restorable shape. Save them anyway we can and build to our liking. I have a 1926 T coupe in remarkable origanale shape and a 1930 A coupe each will be restored stock. But i also have a 1946 ford PU that sat in a field on its side for 40 years. It is not stock, but I can drive across canada tomorrow if I choose.

[tiquer]

Originally Posted by George Miller

I like it looks just right.

Awsome car and tis can be done with bolt on parts and change back to bone stock if wanted. But only after all the fun driveing it wears off

[Lowbuckboz]

Thanks for the compliments! And yes, those tires are newer! LOL Everything on the car is bolt on, can go back to stock very easily. I do have a completely stock 31 A pickup that will never be modified. I also drive the snot out of that coupe, way more fun than any vehicle I own. I have had the die hard restorers compliment the way I have done that car. I feel as though I have respected the car.

[rmak]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fujo5...layer_embedded

Some good pre-war hot rod photos and a good old song to go with them.

[BCCHOPIT]

Originally Posted by Lowbuckboz

I would consider this pre-war. I used no parts newer than 1942.

WOW !!!!
very nice

[fritzz13]

i have a stock 28 coupe and would like to get the same look you did lowbuckboz,can you send me some info on parts you used.

[MikeK]

When you get to the point where your A can cruise 90, consider getting some fins from a
'59 Caddy and welding them to the rear fenders.

[Hotrodmyk]

Originally Posted by Lowbuckboz

I would consider this pre-war. I used no parts newer than 1942.

Really nice coupe!

[Purdy Swoft]

Here is my Trojan dual updraft setup on our roadster. Its a cast iron period correct speed part.

[columbiA]

Both my 30 coupe & 31 s/w sedan run 33 B engines & Columbia OD,s.The coupe has a 5.9 BF head & the sedan will have a 5.5 head.Also using Teds Floaters for added stopping power.Never drilled a single hole in the mods ,so it could be changed back to stock in a week-end,but not as long as I own the cars.Its nice to be able to cruise at 60 on busy hiways at low rpm with less change of getting rear ended.

[fritzz13]

my 28 coupe is all stock,would like to add duel carb downdraft intake.will this be a bolt-on or i will have to make some engine up-grades.i have a zepher duel carb intake.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by fritzz13

my 28 coupe is all stock,would like to add duel carb downdraft intake.will this be a bolt-on or i will have to make some engine up-grades.

Try one of these; single carb, but it's 2-barrel. And it's completely bolt-on.

[Brendan]

[QUOTE=Mike V. Florida;179224]Drop in a small block V8, dropped axle, juice brakes, od tranny.....

Seriously, the first thing you need to decide is what do you want from your Model A?


This site was designed by it's owner to lean way over to the restoration side and his site HAMB is designed for the modified side.

[fritzz13]

i have a zepher 2 carb intake,will this work on my stock engine and what carbs to use.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by fritzz13

i have a zepher 2 carb intake,will this work on my stock engine and what carbs to use.

If is a 3 bolt model, it will take Stromberg 81, 97, 48 or Holley/Chandler Grove 94.
On a stock engine you would do best with the 81's.
Even better is use 3 bolt to 2 bolt adapters and use the single throat Holley's from a Ford 6.

[fritzz13]

thanks for the help pete.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by fritzz13

thanks for the help pete.

Any time.

[hotrodA]

Originally Posted by Milton

[URL]http://www.modelaparts.net/dynosheets.htm/dynosheets.html[/URL

Thanks for sharing some real world information!

[George Miller]

Can't get over how nice your car looks. Almost wish I was painting my 30 pickup black, with white walls.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

Here is my Trojan dual updraft setup on our roadster. Its a cast iron period correct speed part.

Hey Purdy,
Wow, what a nice/clean setup/application ! Is it an easy job to set/synchronize the two updrafts? Looks as they are both opened at once...as in not progressive. Can such a setup practically be made to do well with 'progressive' setup or no?

[Purdy Swoft]

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Thanks Rick, Its pretty easy The updraft carbs are not as sensative to jet size and fuel pressure as any of the down draft carbs are. The B carbs are just rusty swap meet carbs that I cleaned up and went through myself . I just bolted them on and they were good to go. I've got two model A's with dual B carbs so it wasn't just a happen so that they have worked so well. Having a carb near each intake port feeds the engine good and it gets better gas mileage than my other A's with a single updraft. The manifold is open plenium and the carbs work together and are smooth in operation. I suppose that a progressive linkage could be setup but would probably lose smoothness.The only problem I've had was a cracked steel fuel line on the rear carb. My wife drives it . If it wasn't real dependable, she wouldn't drive it. I run a Uni-Flo cast iron dual updraft manifold on my speedster. The Uni-Flo manifold on the speedster was made for a model B and has larger runners.The larger runners make a noticeable difference over the Trojan intake on the roadster. When the high speed jets cut in on both carbs you can feel the power surge. Of course if they didn't have higher compression, port work, Winfield cams and warmed up ignition, they wouldn't perform nearly as well. I once ran a dual updraft setup on a completely stock engine. It was smooth, would run faster but it didn't have anymore noticeable torque that you could feel at low and mid range. Here is a Pic of the speedster engine with the Uni-Flo set up.

[twostickmutt]

Originally Posted by Pete

If is a 3 bolt model, it will take Stromberg 81, 97, 48 or Holley/Chandler Grove 94.
On a stock engine you would do best with the 81's.
Even better is use 3 bolt to 2 bolt adapters and use the single throat Holley's from a Ford 6.

are the 3 bolt to 2 bolt carb adapters still available ?

[Juggler]

Yes

http://www.secretsofspeed.com/carburetor-adapters

[Bob from Northport]

We just released a 1928 Roadster Pick up back to the owner after repairing some problems. It has the kind of speed set up- B engine, Schofield head, twin down draft carbs. The little truck runs like a rocket. The owner had it as a teenager. Way tooooo fast!! I had it at 80mph, and there was plenty of power to go. Like I told the owner, you're outrunning the capabilities of the vehicle, brakes and all. Buy a 60's car for some speed and fun, keep the Model A's for an easy Sunday afternoon ride through history.

[twostickmutt]

thank you for your reply sir !

[twostickmutt]

Originally Posted by Juggler

Yes

http://www.secretsofspeed.com/carburetor-adapters

thank you for your reply sir !

[denis4x4]

Here is a photo of the late "Speedy" Bill Smith taking us on a tour of the Museum of American Speed in Lincoln NE. There is one whole floor of this museum devoted to aftermarket performance for Model A's and Model T's. This place has to be on a car guy's bucket list! There were over a 100 speedster at the reunion this year. My Model A powered roadster put out 60 HP at the rear wheels on a dyno run at this event.