Help I’m Lost

[34 fordor owner]

So, I just put on a freshly rebuilt Holley onto my 34 Ford (not correct carb for 34’s but was on the car when I inherited it) I am getting fuel to the carb and I can see it shoot out the jets. Now that’s all great but the engine is still not firing even after I have put on a rebuilt distributor, new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, and getting gas into engine. I am at a complete loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

[petehoovie]

Time to get out your multi meter/volt meter. Check for voltage to the ignition switch and
at the coil with the ignition switch turned on....

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Time to get out your multi meter/volt meter. Check for voltage to the ignition switch and
at the coil with the ignition switch turned on....

I will have to try this

[WRA]

What was wrong that caused you to change these parts? Was it a running car beforehand?

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by WRA

What was wrong that caused you to change these parts? Was it a running car beforehand?

The car was running about 20 years ago when it was parked. I went through these things as a list to hopefully get it running again.

[Mart]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Do you have spark if you fit a plug to one of the leads outside the engine?

Like this:

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Mart

Do you have spark if you fit a plug to one of the leads outside the engine?

Like this:

I tried this on the number 5 spark plug and I did have a spark. Tomorrow I plan to check others. I may even do the spark plug wires over again to ensure I have them correct.

[Lanny]

Remember that the #1 cyl. on a Ford Flathead is on
the right front (pass side) of engine, if it is LHDrive.

It's odd to have the #1 cyl., not be the furthest forward,
as the #5 cyl. on a Ford flathead is further forward.





.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

Remember that the #1 cyl. on a Ford Flathead is on
the right front (pass side) of engine, if it is LHDrive.

It's odd to have the #1 cyl., not be the furthest forward,
as the #5 cyl. on a Ford flathead is further forward.





.

Thank you for this reminder. Something else I was thinking about, is it possible something crawled into the exhaust pipe and has stopped it up? Thank you.

[flatford8]

Yes it’s very possible.....it’s almost a guarantee .......but the motor would still fire if you have fuel,spark and air......did the rebuilt distributor come with a new condenser?......Mark

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by flatford8

Yes it’s very possible.....it’s almost a guarantee .......but the motor would still fire if you have fuel,spark and air......did the rebuilt distributor come with a new condenser?......Mark

Just got done checking voltages. Starting at the battery there are 6.4 volts and at the coil I am getting 2.4 volts. Mark, condensers for these distributors are crazy hard to find now. I found a condenser with an original strap soldered on.

[V8COOPMAN]

'

Since it's obvious that you have a later 8BA-type engine and not a '34 ignition system, the schematic someone posted is not representative of what you have. Mac VanPelt kindly posts most of these drawings for our use. This drawing BELOW should be more appropriate for troubleshooting your later distributor/points/condenser. DD

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

'

Since it's obvious that you have a later 8BA-type engine and not a '34 ignition system, the schematic someone posted is not representative of what you have. Mac VanPelt kindly posts most of these drawings for our use. This drawing BELOW should be more appropriate for troubleshooting your later distributor/points/condenser. DD

I have the dome distributor on my 34 Ford.

[34 fordor owner]

What is the required voltage needed at the coil like I said I was getting 2.4 at the coil.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

I have the dome distributor on my 34 Ford.

Duh! I obviously misread Mart's post up above and assumed (ASS-U-ME) that the engine head shown in his picture was yours....SORRY! DD
.

[Lanny]

34 fordor owner, maybe list your location in hopes that
a member might be close enough to come help you




.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

34 fordor owner, maybe list your location in hopes that
a member might be close enough to come help you




.

I am in Alamance county North Carolina.

[Lanny]

Maybe someone close will see this thread, and come and help.

My '40 at one time, years ago, after sitting a long time, would
just spitter and sputter while trying to start it.
An old car guy came over, pulled the front distributor, and filed
and set the points, stuck it back together, and it fired up.





.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

Maybe someone close will see this thread, and come and help.

My '40 at one time, years ago, after sitting a long time, would
just spitter and sputter while trying to start it.
An old car guy came over, pulled the front distributor, and filed
and set the points, stuck it back together, and it fired up.





.

Plenty of people in me area that have classics. Might have to stop one and ask for some help. That also sounds kinda like my case usually when I try to start the car, not this recent time though, it would sputter. I had the distributor rebuilt though so maybe the coil. Do you know how many recommended volts is needed at the coil?

[34 fordor owner]

Does anyone have a good recommendation of where to get a good coil for a dome distributor?

[Reds34]

Skip Haney is the man for rebuilt flathead coils. In my experience ( limited), I've found bad coils usually work, then don't as they get warm.

Red

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Does anyone have a good recommendation of where to get a good coil for a dome distributor?

===============================================

Here is some Skip Haney info for you...

Click on picture to Enlarge.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

===============================================

Here is some Skip Haney info for you...

Click on picture to Enlarge.

Thank you!

[B-O-B]

Is the timing correct???

[deuce_roadster]

2.4 at the coil is not enough. Try a "hot wire" directly from the battery and see if it runs fine. You are losing voltage somewhere. You can also try bypassing the resistor. Maybe a loose or dirty connection or the replaceable parts of the switch are worn out. I hope you flushed out the fuel system.

[feufeu]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

i think the first thing to do is to clean the gas pum, put a gas filter before it, see if gas comes out when you start. if all is good, put a wire between + and coil and test to start.
like deuce roadster said 2.4v at the coil is not enough!

[SSsssteamer]

It is time to change out that 20 year old gasoline. Fresh fuel makes a big difference.

[34 fordor owner]

I have taken the tank out had it cleaned and I have flushed the fuel lines. I will have to try a live wire to the coil and see if that does anything. Where is a good place to find a new switch at?

[Lanny]

If the hot wire to the coil helps get the engine to start, then you can
check to see if the problem is the ballast resister or the switch or the coil
or the condenser..




.

[34 fordor owner]

On the fuse block, what voltages do I need to be seeing here? Also what is a good way to set up a hot wire on the coil?

[Lanny]

You should have a positive ground system, so your negative side of the battery
is the hot wire. Run a wire from the negative side of the battery to the negative
on the coil and see if it starts. Pull the wire off to shut down.




.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

You should have a positive ground system, so your negative side of the battery
is the hot wire. Run a wire from the negative side of the battery to the negative
on the coil and see if it starts. Pull the wire off to shut down.




.

Okay I can do that what is the best wire to do this with? Also how do I check to see if a condenser is bad?
Thank you for all the help I’m 16 going into this just trying to learn and have fun!

[Mart]

Do the test with the hot wire, but don't run it for more than a few minutes. The coil should be fed through a ballast resistor for extended running.
Like said, test to see if it will run with a direct hot wire, but treat it as part of the troubleshooting process rather than any sort of fix.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Mart

Do the test with the hot wire, but don't run it for more than a few minutes. The coil should be fed through a ballast resistor for extended running.
Like said, test to see if it will run with a direct hot wire, but treat it as part of the troubleshooting process rather than any sort of fix.

Okay, Is the ballast resistor what is located on the fuse block?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Okay, Is the ballast resistor what is located on the fuse block?

Yes.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Yes.

Okay, for the live wire what is best wire to use for this?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Okay, for the live wire what is best wire to use for this?

14 Ga stranded....Ideally, with a alligator clip on each end....

[Als48]

You can use #14 or #16 Gauge wire. A jumper cable with alligator clips would be great if small enough to connect at the coil.

Al H

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Als48

You can use #14 or #16 Gauge wire. A jumper cable with alligator clips would be great if small enough to connect at the coil.

Al H

Okay thank you

[koates]

First of all take note of Marts post at #33, very important otherwise you could cook your original coil. When replacing your high tension plug leads you must be very careful not to get just one plug lead positioned incorrectly in either of the dist caps. If this occurs then the engine will run a little OFF beat or rough, so recheck these. When testing the voltage at the coil what were the circumstances of the test? Was the engine running or not running ? If not running then were the timing contacts in the dist. open or closed because this makes a difference with the coil loading the circuit or not. Also if engine not running then how long did you have the ignition switch turned on for because the longer its on for then the hotter the resistor becomes and therefore the lower the voltage reading at the coil will be. The resistor is in the coil primary circuit to enable a good strong spark from a cold engine start. So therefore 2.4 volts could be OK depending how you tested. Use an analogue voltmeter because digital multimeters will jump all over the place on old cars. Dont get tangled up with all sorts of tests and changes, do one thing at a time otherwise you wont know what fixed it. You wont be able to test a condenser correctly without a specialized tester. The original Ford V8 condenser is rated at .36mfd where most modern condensers are around .24mfd but will work but not ideal. Regards, Kevin.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by koates

First of all take note of Marts post at #33, very important otherwise you could cook your original coil. When replacing your high tension plug leads you must be very careful not to get just one plug lead positioned incorrectly in either of the dist caps. If this occurs then the engine will run a little OFF beat or rough, so recheck these. When testing the voltage at the coil what were the circumstances of the test? Was the engine running or not running ? If not running then were the timing contacts in the dist. open or closed because this makes a difference with the coil loading the circuit or not. Also if engine not running then how long did you have the ignition switch turned on for because the longer its on for then the hotter the resistor becomes and therefore the lower the voltage reading at the coil will be. The resistor is in the coil primary circuit to enable a good strong spark from a cold engine start. So therefore 2.4 volts could be OK depending how you tested. Use an analogue voltmeter because digital multimeters will jump all over the place on old cars. Dont get tangled up with all sorts of tests and changes, do one thing at a time otherwise you wont know what fixed it. You wont be able to test a condenser correctly without a specialized tester. The original Ford V8 condenser is rated at .36mfd where most modern condensers are around .24mfd but will work but not ideal. Regards, Kevin.

Thank you for this information. The other day I went back and recheck the wires and re ran them to ensure they were in correctly. When I checked the voltage at the coil the engine had not been running and I had only had the switch turned on for about 3 or so minutes.

[Lanny]

Have you tried a hot wire yet from the battery to the coil, just
to see if it will get spark & fire up for a few seconds ?




.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

Have you tried a hot wire yet from the battery to the coil, just
to see if it will get spark & fire up for a few seconds ?




.

I am having trouble finding anywhere that sells 14 gauge wire or 14 gauge wire with alligator clips. Only finding 22 gauge.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

I am having trouble finding anywhere that sells 14 gauge wire or 14 gauge wire with alligator clips. Only finding 22 gauge.

My goodness, any O'Reilly's parts stores have the 5-amp clips for $0.89/ea., & 16 gauge stranded wire for $0.49/ft., or 9 bucks a roll. Click the two links below and get-'er-done! You have one in Burlington at: 2419 N Church St, Burlington, NC 27217


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...st+clips&pos=8


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...age+wire&pos=9

.

[Bob C]

Also looks like you have a Home Depot not to far from you.
https://www.homedepot.com/l/search/2...65118&radius=5

[34 fordor owner]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Bob C

Also looks like you have a Home Depot not to far from you.
https://www.homedepot.com/l/search/2...65118&radius=5

I just got the stuff going to get it all set up here and try it.

[34 fordor owner]

Alright guys I tired the live wire and it still did not start. Actually sounded like it was spinning over slower. The battery has 6.3 volts.

Also just to make sure, I took the could wire off before hooking the live wire I suppose this was the correct thing to do?

[Mart]

Hot wire from battery to one side of the coil.
Other side of coil goes to the points.
If yours is the diver's helmet style of distributor, the latter connection is made internally when the coil is screwed to the top of the distributor.

Did you say you are 16? If so then well done for working through this.
I wonder if anyone is nearby that could come over and help?

We will offer any assistance you need.

Sometimes (most times) it is good to take photos of what you have. It makes it easier when trying to offer advice.

Mart.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Mart

Hot wire from battery to one side of the coil.
Other side of coil goes to the points.
If yours is the diver's helmet style of distributor, the latter connection is made internally when the coil is screwed to the top of the distributor.

Did you say you are 16? If so then well done for working through this.
I wonder if anyone is nearby that could come over and help?

We will offer any assistance you need.

Sometimes (most times) it is good to take photos of what you have. It makes it easier when trying to offer advice.

Mart.

Thank you it’s a pretty fun experience but discouraging at times. Yes, my distributor is the helmet/dome style and I connected it to the connection outside of the coil. I will provide photos next time.

[Lanny]

Did you get a chance to test to see if you have good spark at the plugs,
or is there weak spark or NO spark at all ?
Good spark, weak spark or No spark will be a big clue as to what the
real problem is, and what direction you need to take next.




.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

Did you get a chance to test to see if you have good spark at the plugs,
or is there weak spark or NO spark at all ?
Good spark, weak spark or No spark will be a big clue as to what the
real problem is, and what direction you need to take next.




.

Last time I checked there was a spark but seemed weak. I will check again and come back.

[34 fordor owner]

Checked spark on #5 it is a super weak spark and some cranks there is no spark.
Would this be the coil or condenser?

[34 fordor owner]

I also checked voltage on live wire to ensure good voltage at coil, with live wire I was getting about 5.6 volts to the coil.

[koates]

When checking for spark at a plug lead then hold the end of the lead 1/4"" away from a head stud nut and have some one crank her for you. Dont hold it near the plug terminal. The spark is timed so only happens at intervals. Regards, Kevin.

[Lanny]

Kevin, do you think it would be a wise choice for 34 owner to send his
old 1934 Ford coil to Skip to have rebuilt for $83, knowing then that he
will have a coil that will work correctly on hot days, and last for years.




.

[koates]

Originally Posted by Lanny

Kevin, do you think it would be a wise choice for 34 owner to send his
old 1934 Ford coil to Skip to have rebuilt for $83, knowing then that he
will have a coil that will work correctly on hot days, and last for years.




.

Sounds like a good plan. Kevin.

[Lanny]

If Kevin says it's a good plan, then I would follow his advice.
Your Old 34 Coil, even if Not completely wore out, is pretty
old, and Skip will update it and give you peace of mind.
Ask Skip about a correct ballast resistor and condenser too.




.

[tubman]

In this vein, I seem to remember reading an article in "The V8 Times" where someone tested a whole bunch of original coils (even some NOS) and they all failed after heating up.

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by tubman

In this vein, I seem to remember reading an article in "The V8 Times" where someone tested a whole bunch of original coils (even some NOS) and they all failed after heating up.

===============================================

Hey Denny, do have a condenser that fits this young guys '34 ?




.

[Tinker]

How are your battery connections. Are they clean? Maybe add a ground cable from the frame to your motor. Dizzy grounds to the block as well as the plugs, completing the connection.


*** 90% of the time the coil will only fail when it's hot, it will run before it fails. I'm guessing you are just trying to start the motor. A skip coil is a wornderful thing in the grand scheme of things.


.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Lanny

===============================================

Hey Denny, do have a condenser that fits this young guys '34 ?

.

Although I have sold a bunch to guys who have used them on "Helmets", "Crabs", and "Rabbit-ears" with consistent success, most folks consider them too costly for general use (and they are right).

However, if he continues to have trouble, I would consider sending him one "on approval" to see if it helps. The postage would be the limiting factor here.

As a matter of fact, I am going to discontinue making them when my current stock of components runs out. The price of brass and electronic components has gone through the roof lately.

[34 fordor owner]

I plan on contacting skip and sending him my coil and asking him about the condenser and ballast resistor like you said Lanny. Tinker, I have checked the connections on my battery they are good but I have replaced the positive ground cable because of the wire heating up, after the new cable was put on it no longer got hot. Again thank y’all for the help!

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

===============================================

Here is some Skip Haney info for you...

Click on picture to Enlarge.

Does anyone know if this is still the correct information? I tried to call the “day” number it did not ring.

[Lanny]

Call the night number 941-505-9085




.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

Call the night number 941-505-9085




.

I got in contact with him and the coil is being sent out tomorrow and he is going to be testing the condenser for me as well. Thank y’all!

[Lanny]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

In your 1st post here, you say that you installed a rebuilt dist.
Was it rebuilt by a competent rebuilder, or picked up at a swap
meet, OR ???
The points in the dist must be set exactly, for it to work right.





.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

In your 1st post here, you say that you installed a rebuilt dist.
Was it rebuilt by a competent rebuilder, or picked up at a swap
meet, OR ???
The points in the dist must be set exactly, for it to work right.





.

It was sent of to a builder and was rebuilt and as far as I know set up correctly.

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Does anyone have a good recommendation of where to get a good coil for a dome distributor?

Send your coil to Skip Haney in Florida to get it rebuilt better than new. He can furnish a proper condenser at the same time. About $80.00 plus the ride, but I'm not pricing his service by any means.

[34 fordor owner]

Alright guys, got my coil back from skip today and it looks great! I do need a new condenser though. Does anyone have good suggestions for condensers for the “dome” style distributor?

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Alright guys, got my coil back from skip today and it looks great! I do need a new condenser though. Does anyone have good suggestions for condensers for the “dome” style distributor?

On post # 61, tubman (Denny) may have one. PM him, he's a good guy.


Or you could try: Third Generation Automotive, Michael Driskel
at 844-327-5988 tomorrow.





.

[junglejim]

Any updates on this?
Jim

[Lanny]

34 fordor owner started a new thread when he got the condenser,
and he is looking for info on hooking the condenser up to his coil.

Below is a link to his New thread...

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306349




.