T-5 and a Flathead...

[hotrodcbx]

I have done 2 conversions using the T-5 in my 34 coupe and '33 roadster, both with flatheads. In both cases I bought new Ford T-5s for around the $1300.00 range and put s10 tail housings on them. The problem with the s-10 T5 is ratios and the fact that Tremco has improved on these trans from what they were. In the coupe, I modified the stock stamped bellhousing to accept the Ford T5 bolt pattern and had the input shaft shortened (precision ground) to the right length. In the roadster I was fortunate to find the MCF adapter plate. I use 4.11 rear end gears which give me ideal gear ratios (1800 rpm @ 60 mph).. This is a great setup..

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by hotrodcbx

I have done 2 conversions using the T-5 in my 34 coupe and '33 roadster, both with flatheads. In both cases I bought new Ford T-5s for around the $1300.00 range and put s10 tail housings on them. The problem with the s-10 T5 is ratios and the fact that Tremco has improved on these trans from what they were. In the coupe, I modified the stock stamped bellhousing to accept the Ford T5 bolt pattern and had the input shaft shortened (precision ground) to the right length. In the roadster I was fortunate to find the MCF adapter plate. I use 4.11 rear end gears which give me ideal gear ratios (1800 rpm @ 60 mph).. This is a great setup..

What was the MCF plate thickness? My adapter is 1 inch thick and it leaves the inputs shaft about 3/16 to long (it hits the crank).
Edit: this is Ford T5Z mated to a 59a.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

In so far as center chassis mods to 32-40 Fords, it all depends on whether you want to be able to remove the trans from underneath or have to remove the engine and trans as a unit. Also, how much do you want to modify your frame. I've done both and I'm building a third - it will be removable from underneath like my 40 coupe is. Way too much work the other way as that's what my avatar is.

Also, when using an S10 T5 with a 59AB, you will have to shorten the input shaft about a 1/4" and the collar where the t-out bearing rides will have to be shortened about 1/8" (3 washer thicknesses) IF you are using the stock 40 t-out bearing setup. I'm not sure when using the S10 t-out setup if you will need to make these mods. BTW, Gary at Cornhusker has a nice t-out bearing collar setup to eliminate having to install the sleeve on the stock S10 collar.

I did not have to do any mods to my 40 w/S10 T5 and a French block but I had to do them on the 59AB in my avatar. Same rear portion of the block - do not know what was different to the point of having to make the mods. Go figure ...

[39portlander]

Happened to log-in to check the "swapMeet" and noticed this old thread from 11-03-11 had popped up again. Lots of good post's there guy's.

I still have that old 93 T-5 tucked away for a future project. Scott

[tamnalan]

It seems that for a guy like me - '39 Pickup - buying and swapping a T5 in will cost roughly the same as springing for a Mitchell overdrive.
The T5 brings all synchromesh, but the Mitchell brings "preservation of stock setup"

[Binx]

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Not mine but saw this on Craigslist if someone is shopping...
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/4571859284.html

Lonnie

[oldsman41]

tamnalan, you can save a bundle by getting a volvo od. somewhere on the net there is a spot that i believe a marc member put a volvo in a model a torque tube. the volvo units can be found at swap meets for 150 to 300 bucks. not to hard to adapt to the drive shaft in the tube.

[Richard in Florida]

I can speak only about adapting a T5 to a '53 (or '52 or '54) Ford passenger car; that's all I've done. I suspect my installation, coached by Ol' Ron, was one of the simplest and least expensive on record.

My T5 is a Frankenstein using Astro Van cases which gave me a Ford bolt pattern and the ideal shifter location. I put in a Ford input shaft and the coveted 2.95 gear set. The tailstock has the mechanical speedometer drive, and AutoZone sells a bolt-in speedo cable for $12.

The installation revolves around a simple one-piece adapter machined from aluminum plate. This has been talked about for years. In my case, I used:

• The original flywheel
• The original pilot bearing
• The original pressure plate
• The original clutch linkage
• The original rear mount, modified

My only other purchases were a clutch disk and the speedo cable. Duck soup.

[39portlander]

Originally Posted by tamnalan

It seems that for a guy like me - '39 Pickup - buying and swapping a T5 in will cost roughly the same as springing for a Mitchell overdrive.
The T5 brings all synchromesh, but the Mitchell brings "preservation of stock setup"

Oh no doubt, the T-5 I have would go in some "rod" project that I may or may not get to in this lifetime.

This is a good info sharing thread on the T-5. Scott

[Harry Fabricator]

Richard in Florida isnt the astro van a Gm ? or do you mean the areostar ?

[JSeery]

I'm not Richard! But the answer is the early GM T5s are the GM bolt pattern and later GM T5s are the Ford bolt pattern.

[Ol' Ron]

Yes, I think the GM T-5 went to the Ford Bolt pattern in 92???

[Roger/Sacramento]

This is how mine is in the '41 Pickup

[machine girl]

we have the 3 speed+ O.D. kit for the 1935 and up no cutting up the frame, modelaonly.net