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01-01-1970, 12:00 AM | #1 |
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289 valve adjustment
It has been a while since I have done a valve adjustment, and I guess I have forgotten how. I am working on my 1965 Ranchero, with a 289 2V engine. I have replaced the head gaskets (I thought I had a blown one, but didn't)and the intake manifold gaskets, and everything is back together. The engine runs, but it has a bit of a "lope" to it. The engine is stock as far as I know. It has hydraulic lifters, and the rocker arms do not have any adjustable ends. Just the rocker arm stud nut in the middle at the fulcrum. If I could hear the valve clatter with the engine running, I suppose I could tighten the rocker arm down until the clatter stops, and then 3/4 of a turn more. I can't hear the clatter above all the other noise. So I would like to do the adjustment with the engine still, not running. I have brought number 1 cylinder to top dead center, and the valve cover is off. How can I tell when the clearance is zero? I can push down on the pushrod end of the rocker arm and there is play of the pushrod going down into the valve hydraulic lifter( I think). I need some help. |
01-01-1970, 12:00 AM | #2 |
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Re: 289 valve adjustment
Was hoping someone had more recent experience here. I did the static adj thing on all rebuilts, with liters dry, so I could take up the clerence and feel the lifter spring, and go down about a half turn (rather have less pump up if I over rev) Once they run, you shouldn't be able to empty the lifters? Good lifter will take about 15 min to press down. So if you set TDC and loosen till rocker is loose, screwing down should come up hard against the lifters. Another half turn or so and go on to the next. I have tested lifters running, by pressing down with hammer handle and LEAN on it hard, the lifter should slowly open up a gap that clacks and when you release is quiet. |
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01-01-1970, 12:00 AM | #3 |
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Re: 289 valve adjustment
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I helped my dad adjust the valves in his '65 Ford Custom 289/3spd several times after engine rebuilds. I can recall the process after all these years: while running the fully warmed engine with thermostat open and coolant flowing (very important due to oil viscosity effect on the lifters!) tighten rocker arm stud nuts until all valve train is quiet, (engine will be running rough at this point) then loosen each rocker in turn until it clacks, then retighten until just quiet, then tighten another 1/4 turn. After all 16 valves have been adjusted this way, the engine will be running smoothly barring carb, ignition, timing, or valve train problems. A freshly rebuilt 289 should be re-adjusted after a few hundred highway miles run-in. Hope this helps. <table><tr><td><font face="arial"> |
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