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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Suttons Bay, Mich.
Posts: 3,392
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Hey guys, got my old F-1 fired up and she is running. This was an old farm truck that sat for years. I pulled the cover off my voltage regulator and it looked very nice inside so I kept it. I am not showing anything at my battery gauge (ameter). I have been told two ways to flash my generator. Disconnect bat wire from regulator and touch field and vise versa.
I get a good spark when I touch bat to field, just a tiny spark if I touch field to bat. Is my regulator working? How do I check it? Is my generator working? Again, how do I check it? Is my gauge bad? Again, how do I test it? I have been getting mixed results and don't want to purchase/ rebuild everything if only one thing is the culprit. I know the alternator shop can probably test my generator but they are not open until Monday. Any help is appreciated.
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Respecting and Resurrecting Ford Model A's. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North of sandy ago, CA.
Posts: 2,070
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Van
Check battery voltage with engine off. Start engine, check voltage with engine at high idle. If voltage is higher its charging. Bruce
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#3 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Good to hear it's running! I think cmbrucew's suggestion is a good place to start, that will tell you if the battery is seeing anything out of the regulator/generator. If you are seeing a voltage increase at the battery then most likely something is not right with the amp meter. If not then you need to move on to the regulator and generator.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Yellville,AR
Posts: 222
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You may need to polarize the generator. Most older auto repair manuals will give the procedure, be sure you use the instructions for a Ford charging system. The do not all polarize the same.
Mark |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,564
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Flashing the field, Bat wire touched momentarily to field terminal or a jumper lead between the two will work to magnetize the generator field pole shoes in a good polarity.This residual magnetism is what closes the cut out pole and starts the unit generating. Now if the brushes are worn out or the armature has issues then you will still have a problem. A volt meter on the battery posts will tell you if it is charging or not. It should read somewhere around 7.2 volts when the generator is turning.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Nine Mile Falls,WA
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The sign of a good craftsman is how well they cover up their mistakes. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Suttons Bay, Mich.
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I just tested the battery with the engine running and I am showing 7.8-7.9 on my meter. Still nothing at my amp gauge. Maybe the gauge is bad.
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#8 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
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After all of the wire color coding issues in the wiring, are you sure the correct wire is running through the gauge? It is the wire from the starter solenoid (battery side) to the tie bar between the circuit breakers. The wire goes from the solenoid through the loop on the gauge and then to the CBs.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Suttons Bay, Mich.
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Yes I checked the wire for continuity at the solenoid and the wire that goes through the loop at the gauge and I did have continuity there.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
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And your sure that is the same wire that goes through the loop? Same color code? You are sure it is not the wire from the CBs to the regulator, think it was the same color? If it is the correct wire, sounds like a bad amp gauge.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Newington, Connecticut
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Very common for the amp gauge to be bad on these trucks. As long as you have the heavy yellow wire from the solenoid ( hot side ) thru the loop to the circuit breaker, then most likely the gauge is toast. Sounds like it's charging with 7+ volts at the battery when it's running. You can watch Ebay for NOS ones, as they come up now and then. I do have a few used ones that I'll give you if you want to go that route. PM me.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Newington, Connecticut
Posts: 1,374
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I found some NOS amp gauges. For this many to still be around and NOS, there must have been a problem with them when they were new. We never stocked things, unless there was a steady demand for them.
Part number 8C 10850 Wesley Obs. Liberty, Ky Has 13 606-787-5293 McDonald Obs. Rockport, Ind. has 5 812-359-4965 Wesley probably will be cheaper, nice people to deal with.
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Barry 50 F-1 |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Suttons Bay, Mich.
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Swapped out the battery gauge for another and I had discharge showing( but atleast it was working!) and so I was told to thread the wire the other way through the hoop. It worked and then I lost my fuel pump so I am idle until a new pump arrives.
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#14 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
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Having fun? Yep all you have to do is reverse the direction of the wire through the loop.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marana Arizona
Posts: 1,778
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That's why we refer to these as "works in progress". I like to believe that it helps in our personal development also. Enjoy the adventure.
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