Temperature Gauge Leak

[shew01]

I’m replacing an old temperature gauge with a new one, and I am using a Vintage Precision water neck so that I can have a thermostat closer to the engine head. However, this connection is going to leak. The brass adapter snugs into the water neck base fine, but the temperature gauge nut that “pins” the temperature probe to the adapter in the water neck bottoms out before the probe is sealed to the brass adapter.



I can spin the probe by its aluminum end after the temperature gauge nut is fully tightened.

How can I get around this issue?

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[chrs1961815]

Different adaptor or a longer nut?

[shew01]

Originally Posted by chrs1961815

Different adaptor or a longer nut?

I don’t suppose a longer nut is an option. If I take it off of the temperature gauge assembly, it will destroy the temperature gauge.

I’m “green as grass” on this. Do adapters come in varying depths (for lack of a better term)?


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[shew01]

Would an “O” ring work?


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[Herb Concord Ca]

When I installed mine (with a mechanical gauge like yours) I had to turn the thermostat to find the position where it would then sit correctly in the housing.

[chrs1961815]

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Where did you get the new gauge? Maybe you should contact who you bought it from and see what they say. You probably are not the first person to have this issue.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Herb Concord Ca

When I installed mine (with a mechanical gauge like yours) I had to turn the thermostat to find the position where it would then sit correctly in the housing.

I checked the thermostat before I installed the water neck. There is enough clearance between the probe and the thermostat. (The vendor cuts a slice off of the thermostat that comes with the water neck.)


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[shew01]

Originally Posted by chrs1961815

Where did you get the new gauge? Maybe you should contact who you bought it from and see what they say. You probably are not the first person to have this issue.

Speedway.


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[Ruth]

Did the adapter come with the gauge? If so it should work. What brand gauge? I always use SW gauges.

[1crosscut]

Originally Posted by shew01

Would an “O” ring work?


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That's what I would try. Should fill the gap just fine. With it being an non pressurized system I would think it would hold up.

[Bob C]

Maybe something like this would work, they come in different sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/Parker-Degree.../dp/B077NHZ98C

[shew01]

I found an alternative adapter at O’Reilly’s.



The one on the left came with the water neck, and the inside threads don’t go all the way to the bottom. The one on the right is threaded a little deeper, but it is not a tight seal either.

I found a couple of “O” rings at NAPA, and they seemed to work for the time being. (I was able to warm up the engine while the car is still on jack stands, and I didn’t see a leak.) However, I’m not convinced this is a long term fix. Once the car gets under load on the highway, it may leak.

I’ll called Speedway Motors (the temperature gauge supplier), but they are “experiencing high call volumes.” The automated call attendant eventually hung up on me after 24 minutes of being on hold.


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[Ruth]

I would try to find out why it is not fitting before using an O ring. I asked earlier, didn't an adapter come with the gauge? They usually do.

IF you are going to go the O ring route, check on McmMaster-Carr (or similar for the best O ring for your application). https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings

This is the gauge I use. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stewa...Inch,7150.html As you can see it comes with the proper adapter fitting.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Ruth

I would try to find out why it is not fitting before using an O ring. I asked earlier, didn't an adapter come with the gauge? They usually do.

IF you are going to go the O ring route, check on McmMaster-Carr (or similar for the best O ring for your application). https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings

This is the gauge I use. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stewa...Inch,7150.html

Sorry, I didn’t see your post. This is my gauge.



The adapter came with the water spout, not the temperature gauge. There is a second port in the water neck that would accept the probe without the adapter, but the probe is too long and hits the thermostat.

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[Ruth]

Originally Posted by shew01

Sorry, I didn’t see your post. This is my gauge.



The adapter came with the water spout, not the temperature gauge. There is a second port in the water neck that would accept the probe without the adapter, but the probe is too long and hits the thermostat.

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I think you need to contact Speedway. It states in the gauge description "1/2" NPT adapter for installation is included - 3/8" NPT adapter is available separately as part number 1822370".

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Ruth

I think you need to contact Speedway. It states in the gauge description "1/2" NPT adapter for installation is included - 3/8" NPT adapter is available separately as part number 1822370".

Yes, the 1/2” adapter is included (you cannot remove it without destroying the temperature gauge because the temperature gauge has ether sealed inside it and cannot be taken apart), and it does not fit the adapter that was included from the water neck vendor, and it doesn’t fit (very well) in the adapter I purchased locally yesterday.

As I posted earlier, I tried to contact Speedway, but call volumes are high.


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[1931 flamingo]

Did you try contacting Vintage Precision??
Paul in CT

[shew01]

Originally Posted by shew01

Yes, the 1/2” adapter is included (you cannot remove it without destroying the temperature gauge because the temperature gauge has ether sealed inside it and cannot be taken apart), and it does not fit the adapter that was included from the water neck vendor, and it doesn’t fit (very well) in the adapter I purchased locally yesterday.

As I posted earlier, I tried to contact Speedway, but call volumes are high.


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Maybe I’m incorrect. “Adapter” threw me. There was nothing in the package except the temperature gauge and a mount kit for the dash. It sounds like you think a suitable adapter should have come with the gauge, if I’m reading your post correctly. Nothing like that came in the package.


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[shew01]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Did you try contacting Vintage Precision??
Paul in CT

Not yet. I discovered this after what I presumed to business hours.

That is one of the issues with buying parts from two vendors at the same time. It didn’t occur to me that there might be fitment issues when I placed the separate orders. This is not high technology stuff, it should just work. Alas, it doesn’t. It’s more like dueling with a computer and a software vendor. We get those kinds of issues at work. I work in IT. lol

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[daren007]

Just get yourself a “O” ring.

[jhowes]

Unless I am missing something here (and I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer) it seems that the fancy gooseneck is the issue here. Has anyone tried this gauge in a drilled and tapped standard gooseneck? Like Snyder,
Bratton's, and other vendors sell. What is the downside of the regular gooseneck in this situation? Jack

[duke36]

Originally Posted by jhowes

Unless I am missing something here (and I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer) it seems that the fancy gooseneck is the issue here. Has anyone tried this gauge in a drilled and tapped standard gooseneck? Like Snyder,
Bratton's, and other vendors sell. What is the downside of the regular gooseneck in this situation? Jack

Same thoughts as well. However, perhaps you can get a straight brass coupling type adapter fitting similar to the T fitting in the instructions to move the probe out from the Vintage gooseneck? Check out Dixon Brass for example on line.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by shew01

Maybe I’m incorrect. “Adapter” threw me. There was nothing in the package except the temperature gauge and a mount kit for the dash. It sounds like you think a suitable adapter should have come with the gauge, if I’m reading your post correctly. Nothing like that came in the package.


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Yes, there should be another 'adapter' or 'fitting' that came with the gauge. This picture is directly from Speedways catalog. I drew a circle around what I'm referring to. I tried to explain to the best of my ablility. Good luck.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by jhowes

Unless I am missing something here (and I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer) it seems that the fancy gooseneck is the issue here. Has anyone tried this gauge in a drilled and tapped standard gooseneck? Like Snyder,
Bratton's, and other vendors sell. What is the downside of the regular gooseneck in this situation? Jack

The goose neck is not the issue. The adapter that screws into the goose neck is the issue, or, more likely, the nut on the new temperature gauge is the issue. (It turns out that the old temperature gauge nut screws into the new goose neck adapter fine and the old temperature gauge does not appear likely to leak.)

The downside of the regular gooseneck is that a thermostat tends to migrate toward the radiator. The new goose neck puts the thermostat adjacent to the block for more accurate temperature readings.


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[shew01]

Originally Posted by Ruth

Yes, there should be another 'adapter' or 'fitting' that came with the gauge. This picture is directly from Speedways catalog. I drew a circle around what I'm referring to. I tried to explain to the best of my ablility. Good luck.

That part is definitely missing in my shipment. Thanks for catching that.


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[Ruth]

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Originally Posted by shew01

That part is definitely missing in my shipment. Thanks for catching that.


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Yes you need that part. There is nothing wrong with the Precision water outlet.

[shew01]

I had the car out for a test drive this morning, and I think the temperature gauge is reading about 20 degrees below actual water temperature, according to my temperature gun. So, it looks like I have 2 reasons to follow up with Speedway Motors.


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[Ruth]

Originally Posted by shew01

I had the car out for a test drive this morning, and I think the temperature gauge is reading about 20 degrees below actual water temperature, according to my temperature gun. So, it looks like I have 2 reasons to follow up with Speedway Motors.


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I bought a Sun Pro temperature gauge once. It read ~20° low also. That is why I use SW gauges as mentioned in post #13. "Ya get whatcha pay for"

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by shew01

I had the car out for a test drive this morning, and I think the temperature gauge is reading about 20 degrees below actual water temperature, according to my temperature gun. So, it looks like I have 2 reasons to follow up with Speedway Motors.


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Take the gauge and IR gun, measure a pot of boiling water to check calibration.

[shew01]

I checked the calibration on the IR gun recently. It’s accurate.


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[shew01]

As I recall, I checked the thermostat in boiling water before installation a few weeks back. It opened correctly at 160. The gauge never gets above 142 degrees.


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[shew01]

Originally Posted by Ruth

I would try to find out why it is not fitting before using an O ring. I asked earlier, didn't an adapter come with the gauge? They usually do.

IF you are going to go the O ring route, check on McmMaster-Carr (or similar for the best O ring for your application). https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings

This is the gauge I use. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stewa...Inch,7150.html As you can see it comes with the proper adapter fitting.

The O ring was only a temporary fix.

I ordered the gauge you cited, and it works like a champ. No mess, no fuss. It just works. Thanks for the tip.


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[30 Closed Cab PU]

When quite cool out in early spring and late fall, with a thermostat, my gauge only gets up to about 140. I assume it is due to a combination of cold air on the motor, and the bypass holes I've drilled in the thermostat. I have to put cardboard over part of the radiator to get it to run in the 160 -180 range.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

When quite cool out in early spring and late fall, with a thermostat, my gauge only gets up to about 140. I assume it is due to a combination of cold air on the motor, and the bypass holes I've drilled in the thermostat. I have to put cardboard over part of the radiator to get it to run in the 160 -180 range.

So far, my car idles at 160 degrees, and drives around 170. I have a new radiator from Bratton’s, and a new Vintage Precison water neck that came with a 160 thermostat.


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[katy]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

When quite cool out in early spring and late fall, with a thermostat, my gauge only gets up to about 140. I assume it is due to a combination of cold air on the motor, and the bypass holes I've drilled in the thermostat. I have to put cardboard over part of the radiator to get it to run in the 160 -180 range.

It sounds like the thermostat is either opening too soon or stuck open.

[Johnny Nitro]

If I understand the probe is hitting the inside of the neck before the lip on it can be clamped between the nut, and adapter?

Try something like this for your size thread: AUTO METER 2271 Water Temperature Extension Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062YVM0..._hJ4-EbK9P7KKX

Well, maybe not that exact one $$$!

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by katy

It sounds like the thermostat is either opening too soon or stuck open.

Tried a different thermostat, and tested with a thermometer in a pan of water on the stove. I have a Bergs radiator, with 3 1/8 in bypass holes, probe is in the block/head outlet neck, thermostat against the outlet neck. Gauge was calibrated on the stove in a pot of water using an IR gun and with a thermometer. Motor was recently rebuilt so does not have rust etc, and am running antifreeze.


Am OK with it as it is, Regulates fine with a 160 degree thermostat in the summer when temps are above 70 degrees.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

When quite cool out in early spring and late fall, with a thermostat, my gauge only gets up to about 140. I assume it is due to a combination of cold air on the motor, and the bypass holes I've drilled in the thermostat. I have to put cardboard over part of the radiator to get it to run in the 160 -180 range.

Sounds to me like your bypass holes are too large allowing too much circulation when the thermostat is closed. At 140°f your thermostat should be closed.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Ruth

Sounds to me like your bypass holes are too large allowing too much circulation when the thermostat is closed. At 140°f your thermostat should be closed.

That is also what I have assumed to be going on. But would rather too much bypass instead of not enough and blow up cylinder 4. I do not do much driving in the early spring and late fall, so as I said above this is OK. If going on a longer drive than errands/around town I just block the lower 1/3rd of the radiator and all is good.