To use in hose thermostats or not? 1935 85 V8

[FlatheadTed]

Ford thought there was a vacuum in the block with pump in heads, so placed the pumps in the block to push rather than suck in 1937,

[JayChicago]

Originally Posted by Brian

....into the catchcan....The result is that the radiator is always full, irrespective of engine temperature.

But when up to temperature the radiator is full, with or without a catchcan. When up to temperature the extra coolant is just riding along in the catchcan, not doing anything to help the cooling system.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by JayChicago

But when up to temperature the radiator is full, with or without a catchcan. When up to temperature the extra coolant is just riding along in the catchcan, not doing anything to help the cooling system.

Actually it is. As the cooling system cools, fluid, not air, is sucked back into the radiator. The radiator remains full with no air.


Glenn

[FlatheadTed]

In my 35 I run the open system I have a very good Radiator ,like old stock , it has a shroud and runs cold so I added thermostats . it drops about a ltr .To work properly some of the time the thermostats should be closed ,like on a long down hill run ,

[JayChicago]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Actually it is. As the cooling system cools, fluid, not air, is sucked back into the radiator. The radiator remains full with no air.
Glenn

So the radiator's expansion tank remains full of fluid when cool. Then as it comes up to temperature that fluid gets pushed out instead or air. How does that help the cooling system?

I have heard the theory that you want to keep air out of the cooling system to not introduce air/oxygen into the engine. Maybe that has some merit, I don't know. But I doubt the air above the coolant in the expansion tank when cool is going to hurt the coolant.

[ScubaChief60]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

You all are the best! I have read and considered all of these posts and Brian has just summarized what I have found in my attempts.

Today's test drive went perfectly well.

Engine ran cool and no overflow.

Thermostats are back in... and mine are high in the hoses just under the top tank on the '35 radiator.

I added a 'catch can' as well a month back to keep from blowing it out onto the roadway as it was doing.

I cut out a new radiator cap gasket using Felpro gasket material and so it seals pretty good.

Skip Haney also provided me a 3 PSI pressure valve that I have placed on the overflow tube between the radiator and the 'catch can'.

All this to say that I may have hit on the right formula.... but i'll keep watching and posting if anything changes.

I do apprecaite all the advice on this forum. Thanks all!!!!

[Brian]

All modern vehicles use a catch can; must be some merit to it!
Scub, I think you'll find that fitting Skips valve will prevent coolant returning back into radiator....

[ScubaChief60]

I have thought about the placement of Skip's pressure valve... I may place it on the catch can overflow tube. My catch can canister is air tight so that may work. I'll test it out. Thanks Brian!

[Brian]

No Scuba, Skips valve is a one way valve; it'll allow coolant to flow out of the radiator, but prevent it returning. The catchcan must be vented to atmosphere. Then the coolant can flow in either direction...

[JayChicago]

Originally Posted by Brian

All modern vehicles use a catch can; must be some merit to it!

Modern vehicles use a remote expansion tank. They fill the available grill area with radiator, no expansion tank as we have on top of our radiators. (and the plastic expansion tank is probably cheaper to produce) The expansion tank's overflow hose goes to the ground, not into a catchcan, because a second tank would serve no purpose.

Our old radiators have a built-in expansion tank. A second, redundant tank serves no purpose.

[FlatheadTed]

You would know this but the modern system when cold circulates the water around the block only, not through the Radiator as it warms up the thermostat opens and it starts to flow through the radiator as well .You then get a even distribution of warm water .With thermostats a Flathead can get hot spots when the cold water is trapped and the pumps cannot work ,up till then its more like a Model T that used thermos siphon hot water rises . I suggest If your fitting thermostats clamp them and drill a 1/8 hole in them only and place them near the out let so you get hot water coming through to open them .. ASAP ,from the Ford Barn .Ted

[ScubaChief60]

Good morning all,


I believe that I have rounded a corner here on my cooling mysteries.


The best results I have had so far are using two in-hose thermostats that Bob Shewman in Pennsylvanian offers at $58 for the pair which includes shipping in the good ole USA anyhow.


Looks like he uses a brass tube and silver solders into each a modern day thermostat. He offers 160 degree and 180 degree versions.


I installed two of his 160's. I test drove 75 miles yesterday with absolutely no issues at. The engine ran at normal temp and I pushed no (or little) coolant through the overflow like was occurring.


I am not on commission here...merely passing along news of an item that is working very well for me


Robert Shewman / PO Box 165 / Kimberton PA, 19442 / 610-933-6637 / [email protected]


Hope this helps someone else and if so ,then my work here is done...