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09-06-2023, 03:30 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Williamstown, NJ
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Thank You Thank You Thank You
Well Golly Sgt. Carter Thank You Thank You Thank You. All you guys support had helped me tremendously. I do believe I have a duel problem and I will know shortly if I have it licked! The car stalling on 90 degree turns is a float problem and the starter having to cool down half an hour is a bad starter! Prayers! 33 cabriolet
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09-07-2023, 09:13 AM | #2 | |
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Location: Holmen,Wisconsin
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
Quote:
Alexander Hamilton also had a "duel" problem
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09-07-2023, 10:21 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
Tom: Try rebuilding your starter yourself. Not that hard to do if you have the patience.
Take plenty of photos. Here's a thread about how to take one apart when it was converted to 12V. The principles are the same for your 6V. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...rt+starter+12V Check with Mac Van Pelt if buying a new starter., Last edited by 19Fordy; 09-07-2023 at 10:36 AM. |
09-07-2023, 10:35 AM | #4 |
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Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
I have rebuilt a couple flathead starters myself. A few years ago, I bought a bunch of brushes and bushings from Rock Auto on close-out. I am lucky that a friend of mine has a "growler" so I can check the armatures (they usually are good). The biggest problem was finding a soldering iron large enough (300 watts) to solder the brushes with.
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09-07-2023, 01:16 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 765
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
One of the hardest things to deal with when rebuilding starters and generators is removing and replacing the pole shoe screws. They are extremely tight and need to be. They really cannot be removed/replaced with just a screwdriver.
Last year I pulled apart a model A generator that someone had taken the armature to a grinder to reduce its diameter! - no doubt because they could not tighten the pole shoes enough to properly seat them and allow clearance for the armature. So they just ground the OD of the armature. This clearance is only about .010" - .015" - very close. An impact wrench with proper fitting tip may work, I used to use one myself. But a couple years ago I built a rig to use in my arbor press. Now removing and replacing them is a breeze. Here is a short video I made about the rig. https://youtu.be/aQTjMXQffvY?si=zVPmubBiijSPlBm4 |
09-07-2023, 03:27 PM | #6 |
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
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vertical milling machine could also be used? Last edited by 19Fordy; 09-08-2023 at 09:04 AM. |
09-07-2023, 03:42 PM | #7 |
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Location: FP, NJ
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
Years ago, I bought a "drag link socket" from Sears. (Remember them?) It's a hefty flat screw driver blade, 1/2" drive. I use it with my impact screwdriver. I also use it for the trans shifter detent spring caps.
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09-07-2023, 04:18 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
Quote:
One thing I didn't show in the video is this tailpipe expander tool. It works perfectly for seating the fields and pole shoes tightly inside the case before tightening the screws. Generators and starters can still be found with the original square drive screws. I made a special bit to fit the square drive generator screws. I found an old tap that had a square end that perfectly fit the screw. The end was cut off and welded into a socket. Starters use a similar, but larger square drive. |
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09-07-2023, 05:05 PM | #9 | |
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
Quote:
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The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... "Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!" "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0 |
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09-08-2023, 08:55 AM | #10 |
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Location: Green Bay Wi
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
Good old American ingenuity got to love it thanks for the tips
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09-08-2023, 11:10 AM | #11 |
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Location: Orcas Island Washington
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
Genius! I live for stuff like this. Suddenly the near impossible enters the realm of the 'do it yerselfer'. What other tricks do you have up your sleeve?
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1947 Tonner Pickup (red) mostly stock with exception of a cummins 6at turbo diesel, 1946 Tonner Pickup (green) with 226 cu in 6 cyl flathead, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, completely encased in 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. Ok, cornbinder rear fenders..... 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
09-08-2023, 11:28 AM | #12 | |
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
Quote:
https://youtu.be/pn9yTlMLAR4?si=v2HnJbcL5f_y81-F Not Ford specific, but I have a 9 video series on rebuilding a 1940s era Autolite generator. Much of the work is generic and applies to most generators. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...Mt1HpMpMhiSOsR |
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09-09-2023, 10:15 AM | #13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax Station, VA
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Re: Thank You Thank You Thank You
There's nothing like the original Ford-issued starters and generators. Ndnchf can show you how it's done.
One of our club members had a starter problem and purchased a brand new starter from on the the major suppliers. It wasn't cheap, just under $300. It worked for a while then just wouldn't. When he took it apart, the lack of quality was readily apparent. It was as if someone copied the parts by eye, not with any specifications so the parts looked good, but there was either too much slop or the parts bound up when they expanded with normal temperature increases. Off-shore junk for sure.
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1935 157" 1 1/2 ton stake truck undergoing full original restoration 1936 131 1/2" panel truck rescue preservation Author of the 1935-1936 Ford Model 51 V8 Truck book published by the Early Ford V8 Club of America |
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